z28beast

ok guys first off thanks for checking out my post...now onto the build...i have a 1994 camaro z28 with 103k miles,k&n cai, bbk headers 3inch all the way back with no cat to a flowmaster 80 series...i want to do a nice build for street use not really much strip time just a local ball bustn car ya know..Id like to put bigger pistons in maybe 30-50 over.a nice cam,new heads and etc...im lookin to spend about 2grand on parts ill do all the work myself.... i would like you guys opinion on whats parts will go best together with my engine...im lookin for around 400hp and a nice sounding lobe.

here are the parts im currently thinking about purchasing
-cc 503 cam
-pac 1218valve springs

and thats pretty much it... i really need input here guys...is the 503 a good cam? also what heads pistons etc should i get. like i said im looking for a mostly street,build here...but i still want to be able to beat on it a little and have it be somewhat reliable...i would like to basically rebuild with better parts...ALL HELP IS GREATLY GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

z28beast

bump....come on guys someones gotta know

Injuneer

"Bigger pistons" don't make any real power. You need a piston that matches the overbore required for the rebuild. Makes no sense to go beyond 0.030" over. Beyond that, you're just using up/weakening the cylinder walls and possibly preventing a future reuse of the block.

You indicate you are looking for 400HP.... would that be at the flywheel, or at the rear wheels?

Rather than start by selecting the cam, start by setting a power goal and streetability, then selecting the heads/cam as a package to meet that goal. There are several popular sources for heads/cam packages for the LT1. Here is one example - there are others:

http://elliottsportworks.com/

But that should give you an idea of what's available, the cost, supporting mods, etc.

If you are serious about power, I wouldn't select a cam based on "lobe" (lope). What sounds aggressive isn't necessarily aggressive, if its mismatched to the rest of the engine.

Additionally - please don't bump your posts back to the top, until waiting at least 24 hours.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-based-engine-tech-9/all-members-read-abuse-%22ttt%22-5485/

rskrause

You need to see what is in good shape in the motor now before you start buying parts. Maybe everyting is good and all you need is bearings and rings, allowing much more of your budget to go for things that increase performance. Even if you can re-use the entire rotating assy., $2K will not go very far, especially considering that you will need the PCM reprogrammed if you make any significant mods. If the car is running good now, I suggest waiting until you have some more $$$ to put into the car. OTOH, IF you can re-use the rotating assy., you could probably at least do a cam and some basic "pocket porting" on the heads and come in fairly close to your budget.

Rich

slomarao

your budget is not going to allow you to do many things. You need more money or have to think about what is most important to you and proceed in that order.

you could maybe rebuild it with all stock bottom end parts and do a cam on the 2k budget you have. Heads are out of the question.

What are your goals for the car?

WS6T3RROR

Fwiw with your budget, I would go with stock replacement mahle lt1 pistons and rings 0.020" over if the bores will clean up at that. You can get a set for about 180 bucks, nothing else in that price range will touch them in terms of quality and design. Also you will be able to skip having the crank balanced if you do that. Have arp bolts put in the rods and have them resized. Go back with a new stock timing chain set.

If you're buying ported heads just use the upgraded springs that come with them rather than buying the pacs and all that hardware separately. The 503 doesn't require anything special as far as springs go and it is a great cam for a daily driver.

Your budget needs to grow another 1500 dollars or so to do everything you're talking about correctly even doing it yourself. There are easily 150 dollars worth of bearings and 250 dollars worth of gaskets and seals to buy, along with head bolts, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, machine work etc. Its also a good idea while its apart to install a new optispark which is $$$. Then you've got bigger injectors to buy if you get over 350rwhp, and a mail order tune will cost you or a dyno tune or software and a cable if you plan to do it yourself. If its an auto you'll want at least a small stall and a big trans cooler to help with the cam, stock will work but it will suck btdt got the shirt.

RamAir95TA

What makes you think you need to redo the bottom end? If it passes a compression/leak down test and has good oil pressure, I wouldn't hesitate to do a heads/cam package whatsoever. Pistons by themselves don't make the power - the valvetrain does (heads and cam).

If I were you, I'd just do an AI 190cc heads/cam package and call it a day (assuming you have all of the supporting mods to go along with it).

Diplomat

I was where you’re at now 2 years ago. $2000 is not really realistic. Set of good heads cost $1600, good cam $600-$1000, rotating assembly $1000 and up. I’m sorry to bust your bubble but doing a stroker and rotating assembly will put you at double your budget. $2000 can get you a good cam, maybe rocker arms and a nitrous kit the rest you can use on new tires.

My engine alone ran me $10K plus the $6K for ProCharger.

Don’t forget when increasing horsepower with power adders you will need transmission mods too…

Diplomat

Check out Golens web site (http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html). I bought my 383 rotating assembly from them Dragon Slayer and after I received everything in mail, I mailed everything back because it was cheeper for them to do it all than for me or a local shop to attempt and eventually rip you off.

RamAir95TA

While financially this is a smart move, I prefer to have a more personal experience with the builder, who you can ask questions to directly instead of over the phone, and if there are any problems, you won't have to play phone tag.

Not to mention Chad is a shady businessman. Glad you had a good experience with them though.

JMHO.

Diplomat

When you look at this industry unless that guy is a friend or relative you will get taken advantage of…With the internal assembly I received 50% off on assembly and testing. I shipped everything to him and he dyno ran the motor with and without the blower.

I would have loved to have this shop closer but at the time they were promoted in GM High Tech.

$2000 isn’t realistic, like someone on here already said, gaskets and misc parts that you will need with the disassembly of the engine is over $400. I would honestly suggest that if the motor is running strong and your oil pressure is good and engine oil is clean and no leaks, do a hp bolt on. Like a LT4 Kit or Intake and cam kit or small shot of nitrous…If your looking more bang for your buck go nitrous. Don’t go to crazy, 100 shot at most…

Diplomat

I'm quoting my self here...I didn't mean go on this website and buy, just look at the prices if your thinking of doing internal upgrade to get the dollar amounts involved in this proces. Take each price and take out $325 for assembly if your doing it yourself.

RamAir95TA

Lots of guys go with a 150 shot on the stock bottom end with good results!

Diplomat

Yes, I agree. He did say he has over 100K miles so 150 would be the max I would conceder. With exhaust, intake port and cam you can easily reach 450-500. Also try loosing some weight, every 100lbs its like gaining 20-30hp. Like swaping out heavier parts with lighter.

Injuneer

He didn't ask about "doing a stroker", and we don't even know whether he wants 400HP at the flywheel, or at the rear wheels.