LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 Canfield Heads arrive...

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Old 10-25-2009, 06:38 PM
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Well, just got in from the shop/shed. I've been working on it pretty much all day.

WINS:
  • Removed Melling HI Volume and replaced it with a new standard volume.
  • Cleaned all head surfaces
  • Cleaned all ARP head bolts
  • Installed new oil pan gasket
  • Installed new rear main seal
  • Got one of the Canfields on

Setbacks
  • My machinist said that the TCI LT1 specific Flexplate can't be used since he INTERNALLY balanced the engine. (I'll have to see if Jegs will take this one back and ship me a new one)
  • Head Dowels didn't match right up. I had to elongate the holes a little and then it went on.
  • The center head bolt/washer interfered with the Big Block Spring locators. I had to grind two flats on the washer AND the outter perimeter of the head bolt itself. Plus, even a socket had trouble going on to the head of the bolt, even with a thin wall socket.
  • I just noticed that the Canfields don't use the bevel seat sparkplug like the stock LT1 heads. I gotta see what correlates to an Autolite 104 in a 'gasket' style sparkplug.
  • The Felpro 1010 head gaskets pretty much match except end coolant passages. I drilled a couple of holes in each area where the 1010's are covering up the passage. UPDATE!(10/29/2009) I do NOT recommend using the 1010's now that I've purchased them and tried to install them. I see NO reason you can't use the 1074's. Pictures occur elsewhere on this thread showing the crucial differences between the configuration of the water passage/oil drainbacks.
This is the area that the 1010 differs the most from the more typical FelPro 1074

Normally, the area is open to a fairly large area.

You know... the more I look at that gasket area, the more I think that will cause a water jacket leak. Hmmm... When I get the other Canfield back, I'm goint to put the 1074(used) and the 1010 on the head and try to do a more thorough evaluation. Maybe all it would take to make it work is put some silicone to bridge that area and seal. But like I mentioned earlier, the 1074 didn't look like it would be a problem. Gotta see it again....

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; 10-29-2009 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:55 AM
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Well, dang it. The stock GM guideplates WON'T work after all. The intake is positioned about .150 off from stock. I'm going to have to order some Isky Adjustables.

Hahaha.. I called Canfield to ask if they had any guide plates for these heads...
<Me>"Hi, I have a pair of your heads and was wondering if I could order some guide plates for them"
<Canfield>"Sure thing. Which of our heads do you have?"
<Me>"I have a pair of the LT1 Canfields"
<Canfield><Pause....>"You have a pair of our LT1 Canfields? Wow... We didn't make very many of them. Wasn't much of a market. No, Sorry. We don't have any guideplates for those"
<Me>"Okay then. Thanks anyway"

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; 10-26-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:29 PM
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any flow #'s yet? are those gaskets going to work?
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:30 PM
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Summit Racing had the Adjustable Iskys (weird. They call them AFR Isky's. Did AFR buy Isky or something?) The part number is AFR-6104 and they're for 5/16" Pushrods. I also found the 'internally balanced' TCI flex plate for the 1 piece seal 5.7" LT1.
Part number is:
TCI-399174
Flexplate, 153-Tooth, Internal Balance, 1-Piece Rear Main Seal, SFI 29.1, Chevy, 5.7L, Each
It's actually less expensive the the LT1 specific (but externally balanced) TCI flexplate I bought. Now I have to contact Jegs to see if I can get credit for it and get some other parts.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:41 PM
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turns out my machinist doesn't have a professional flow bench. His measures at 10" of water, not 28" like most pro shops. He won't be finished putting it back together till Wed at the earliest. I'll have to see if I can find a pro shop.

On the gaskets, UPDATE!(10/29/2009) I do NOT recommend using the 1010's now that I've purchased them and tried to install them. I see NO reason you can't use the 1074's. Pictures occur elsewhere on this thread showing the crucial differences between the configuration of the water passage/oil drainbacks.
Look above at my edited post about the guide plates.
Originally Posted by unfaded
any flow #'s yet? are those gaskets going to work?

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; 10-29-2009 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:35 AM
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Dave, Welcome to the wonderful world of ordering your plugs through summit. I used GMPP guide plates on my Darts, the ones Dart sent me were a joke.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:12 AM
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Hi Neil

How's life with that beautiful car of yours? Everything come together and running great now? Hope so..

Back to plugs, do the Darts also use a gasket style plug? What designation?
On the Guide plates, I looked thru my Jegs magazine and saw the Dart versions. They did look less substantial in the picture. The drill on the Isky's is supposed to be,
  • Place guideplates on head.
  • Insert 7/16" rocker studs loosely into the guideplates.
  • Place pushrods thru guideplates into lifters
  • Place ProMag rocker arms on rocker studs
  • Now the fun part, orient the guideplate halves until the rocker tip is perfectly over the valve stem tip, then either mark or tack weld the guideplate halves together.
  • Remove the guideplate to a welding area/table and carefully (Don't want to overheat and ruin the temper of the metal) weld fully.

Originally Posted by neil350
Dave, Welcome to the wonderful world of ordering your plugs through summit. I used GMPP guide plates on my Darts, the ones Dart sent me were a joke.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:43 PM
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UPS just dropped off my shipment from Summit. Got the ISKY adjustable guideplates and the new TCI heavy duty INTERNALLY balanced version Flexplate for LT1's.

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; 10-28-2009 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:45 PM
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red X... you suck dave!
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:49 PM
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No. It's my fingers that lack skillz. You know, like Bo-staff skills, Nun-chuck skills..
Originally Posted by RealQuick
red X... you suck dave!
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:52 PM
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One thing my machinist DID mention about my Canfields was that they were only superficially ported. Light clean up. Here's his literal email to me..
The Canfields choke at .500 lift, exactly like phase II Bowties.
The port job was cosmetic, no effort was made to properly shape the short
turn radius to kill the sonic choke effect. The overall shape of the port,
however, must be more efficent , reflected in the improved flow
over the LT1s up to the .450" lift point.
They will still provide more "area under the curve" than the LT1s. On a
naturally aspirated engine experimenting with 1.5 rockers would yield
some improvements in the peak torque numbers.


Originally Posted by unfaded
any flow #'s yet? are those gaskets going to work?
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:15 PM
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Dave, leaks oil like crazy but I haven't set it on fire, so I guess things are about the same.
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:36 PM
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Ugh.. .where's the leak originating? Back of the intake?

Originally Posted by neil350
Dave, leaks oil like crazy but I haven't set it on fire, so I guess things are about the same.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:10 AM
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To more graphically illustrate the issue I see with using the Canfield recommended 1010 over the 1074 head gaskets...

The Fel Pro 1010's laid across the Canfield head...


The covered water passage and exposed oil drainback hole...


Now my used Fel Pro 1074 laid across the Canfield head...


The water passage and Oil drainback hole as it should be (FP 1074)...
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:03 PM
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I'd run the 1074's.
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