LT1 distributor question
#16
have you checked all the easy stuff because it does not really sound like a opti(judging from your awsome description of the problem)
maybe a wire arcing, or a bad spark plug..does the computer have any codes stored
#17
sorry its just frustrating seeing your pride and joy sitting there all summer not able to cruise in it you know lol.
but its had 3 sets of wires, 3 sets of plugs, and no arcing.
i cant get my datamaster to work so all i can do is paper clip test it and nothing comes up.
weve checked fuel pressure, volts at the fuel pump, and the fuel filter, all good. we also have new fuel injectors in it also.
we also checked all vacuum lines and all have sufficient vacuum as does the manifold.
so it comes down to woring and sensors now (ICM granted we shoul've done that in the begining) unless we missed something?
but its had 3 sets of wires, 3 sets of plugs, and no arcing.
i cant get my datamaster to work so all i can do is paper clip test it and nothing comes up.
weve checked fuel pressure, volts at the fuel pump, and the fuel filter, all good. we also have new fuel injectors in it also.
we also checked all vacuum lines and all have sufficient vacuum as does the manifold.
so it comes down to woring and sensors now (ICM granted we shoul've done that in the begining) unless we missed something?
#18
ok well we got our ICM in and it fixed the skipping for about 1 mile. car ran great untill 1 mile down the road and then started skipping and popping like crazy.
we get it back to the garage and notice our new ICM got so hot it had a bubble in the insulation! we got a loaner from a buddy and it did the same thing just no bubble in the insulation.
then we put the ICM in the freezer then installed it back into the car... it runs great untill the ICM heats up again then it would skip and pop again.
my question now is what would cause the ICM to pull that kind of amperage or voltage.
we've checked all wires for shorting and grounding and found nothing. could a bad coil possibly be the culprit?
we get it back to the garage and notice our new ICM got so hot it had a bubble in the insulation! we got a loaner from a buddy and it did the same thing just no bubble in the insulation.
then we put the ICM in the freezer then installed it back into the car... it runs great untill the ICM heats up again then it would skip and pop again.
my question now is what would cause the ICM to pull that kind of amperage or voltage.
we've checked all wires for shorting and grounding and found nothing. could a bad coil possibly be the culprit?
#21
Go back to the wiring diagram The Engineer posted, and verify that you have clean connections on all the wires, including the ground. There are two different versions of the coil wiring. One has dual connectors (93-95) and the other has a single connector (96/97). Do you have the correct coil for your 93 wiring harness?
#22
ya we got the dual connector
what causes the ICM to get so hot, what voltages and amperages are coming from what wires.
if anyone has that information i can go check to see what kind of amperage or voltage the wires have at the ICM and coil connectors.
what causes the ICM to get so hot, what voltages and amperages are coming from what wires.
if anyone has that information i can go check to see what kind of amperage or voltage the wires have at the ICM and coil connectors.
Last edited by iceman117; 09-14-2007 at 12:23 PM.
#23
engineer, in the diagram u showed me the ICM pins are C-A-D-B, on my harness the plug goes D-C-B-A. the wire color corresponds with the letters in the diagram but are going to different locations.
in the diagram, are those the locations of the pins on the ICM or pins in the harness?
in the diagram, are those the locations of the pins on the ICM or pins in the harness?
Last edited by iceman117; 09-14-2007 at 02:57 PM.
#24
The diagram is not in the order of the wires. It's drawn for clarity. All you need do is confirm that the:
White wire is in "B"
Black wire is in "C"
White/black wire is in "D"
Pink/black wire is in "A"
If you wanted to, you could confirm the other end of the connections.
White wire is in "B"
Black wire is in "C"
White/black wire is in "D"
Pink/black wire is in "A"
If you wanted to, you could confirm the other end of the connections.
#25
all the wires go to the correct locations on the coil itself, but how can u tell what order the pins are in on the ICM, there are no letters to correspond.
im trying grounds now to see if i can make it last a little bit longer before it heats up. if it lasts longer after i clean some grounds, mayb it was pulling too much current.
i also read in some other posts that people thought it was the temperature sensor in the water pump and/or the O2 sensors malfunctioning since they are a vital part in the OBD1 system.
could someone elaborate on these thoughts.
thanks
im trying grounds now to see if i can make it last a little bit longer before it heats up. if it lasts longer after i clean some grounds, mayb it was pulling too much current.
i also read in some other posts that people thought it was the temperature sensor in the water pump and/or the O2 sensors malfunctioning since they are a vital part in the OBD1 system.
could someone elaborate on these thoughts.
thanks
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