Lt1 Engine Overheating
06-26-2003, 09:38 PM
#1
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Lt1 Engine Overheating
My engine is overheating, running close to orange marker, need help. Both Fans are running, thermo in good shape. Hottness is burning rear seal, oil, trans fluid and lubrication close to tranny. Need help, any suggestion or anyone that use to have similar problem? Would appreciate any help out there, thanks!
06-27-2003, 01:01 AM
#2
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Location: Arlington, VA
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when you uncap the radiator and let it get up to normal op temperature do you see the fluid swishing around a lot? You could have a clogged radiator. I'd try a full flush and make sure that you mix it 50/50 with coolant. Good Luck.
06-27-2003, 01:17 AM
#3
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Location: KANSAS
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full flush, bleed the system, make sure your air dam is still intact under the car (will overheat without it) and see if you have any trash that has been sucked up under there that is blocking the radiator. These things are bottom feeders.
Good luck.
Good luck.
06-27-2003, 07:29 AM
#4
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Originally posted by scoobysnax83
when you uncap the radiator and let it get up to normal op temperature do you see the fluid swishing around a lot? You could have a clogged radiator. I'd try a full flush and make sure that you mix it 50/50 with coolant. Good Luck.
when you uncap the radiator and let it get up to normal op temperature do you see the fluid swishing around a lot? You could have a clogged radiator. I'd try a full flush and make sure that you mix it 50/50 with coolant. Good Luck.
06-27-2003, 07:30 AM
#5
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Originally posted by Teek
full flush, bleed the system, make sure your air dam is still intact under the car (will overheat without it) and see if you have any trash that has been sucked up under there that is blocking the radiator. These things are bottom feeders.
Good luck.
full flush, bleed the system, make sure your air dam is still intact under the car (will overheat without it) and see if you have any trash that has been sucked up under there that is blocking the radiator. These things are bottom feeders.
Good luck.
06-27-2003, 12:02 PM
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I had the same problem when I replaced my radiator. All I did was just fill up the radiator and thought it would just suck the water in, because that's what I've done on my previous car. Like they said there is a bleed screw where the upper hose connects to the engine. You have to open until water comes out and then you close it. (with engine running of course)
06-27-2003, 01:26 PM
#7
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
I had the same problem when I replaced my radiator. All I did was just fill up the radiator and thought it would just suck the water in, because that's what I've done on my previous car. Like they said there is a bleed screw where the upper hose connects to the engine. You have to open until water comes out and then you close it. (with engine running of course)
I had the same problem when I replaced my radiator. All I did was just fill up the radiator and thought it would just suck the water in, because that's what I've done on my previous car. Like they said there is a bleed screw where the upper hose connects to the engine. You have to open until water comes out and then you close it. (with engine running of course)
06-27-2003, 01:41 PM
#8
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I replaced the radiator because it started leaking where the plastic tanks on the side attatch to the actual radiator. It sarted overheating because I didn't go through the correct coolant fill procedure.
06-27-2003, 02:17 PM
#9
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
I replaced the radiator because it started leaking where the plastic tanks on the side attatch to the actual radiator. It sarted overheating because I didn't go through the correct coolant fill procedure.
I replaced the radiator because it started leaking where the plastic tanks on the side attatch to the actual radiator. It sarted overheating because I didn't go through the correct coolant fill procedure.
06-27-2003, 02:30 PM
#10
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With the engine running open the top-most bleed screw (where the upper connects to the thermostat housing) until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw close it, but be careful not to strip the threads as it is made of soft brass. It might be a good idea to get someone to sit in your car and watch the temp gauge. You may have to bleed the system more than once, although one time should be enough. Hope that helps.
06-27-2003, 02:37 PM
#11
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
With the engine running open the top-most bleed screw (where the upper connects to the thermostat housing) until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw close it, but be careful not to strip the threads as it is made of soft brass. It might be a good idea to get someone to sit in your car and watch the temp gauge. You may have to bleed the system more than once, although one time should be enough. Hope that helps.
With the engine running open the top-most bleed screw (where the upper connects to the thermostat housing) until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw close it, but be careful not to strip the threads as it is made of soft brass. It might be a good idea to get someone to sit in your car and watch the temp gauge. You may have to bleed the system more than once, although one time should be enough. Hope that helps.
06-27-2003, 11:13 PM
#12
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Originally posted by matt94
I'll check on this and then get back to you, thanks!
I'll check on this and then get back to you, thanks!
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