Gitsum95z

ok i have a 95 camaro z28. 6 speed car. the crank broke 2 years ago and i recently had the short block redone to a 383. still using stock heads, intake that has been ported. all stock wiring and stock pcm. comp cams 306, msd dist, coil and 6al box. stock injectors.

while the motor was out the changes i made were ABS delete. also wire delete (ran along the passenger fender instead of over the wheel well). i mounted the grounds onto the frame rail on the right side. i also welded in a 6 point cage with swing out door bars

ok motor is in, turn the key forward and the fuel pump comes alive. turn key to start position, the motor turns over and doesnt come alive.

i had a dynospark dist and was getting spark to all 8 plugs. thinking the optical eye inside dist was bad i bought a new MSD pro billet replacement dist. installed and same thing. the coil is good. im getting great spark. the cam was degreed in correctly.
i checked all the grounds 8 of them and cleaned them just encase.
i checked the wiring for fray's, cuts, damage & nothing.
i checked the connections at the pcm
i checked to make sure i had fuel all the way to injectors
i checked the injector plug and with the key on im getting 12v current.
i checked the ohms on the injectors and all 8 are at 13.5
i am NOT getting a injector pulse.
i pulled out the fuel rail and injectors from intake and with injectors and harness still intact to the fuel rail im still not getting any spray at all while turning over.
i then checked to see if the security light was on signaling V.A.T.S failure, nothing. the light doesnt even come on.
i checked to resistance and it was .88 at the key, and with key in on position and at the V.A.T.S harness near steering column it has same value.

im almost out of ideas. any help, suggestions, or ideas is appreciated.
can i have the vats and bcm turned off in the pcm program so it will function without reading trouble codes to keep injectors from pulsing?

is there anything i could have not connected that could be causing this.
there wasnt a battery in the car but when i welded the cage in could i have damaged the pcm or something else?
frustrated!

REDLT4

The PCM uses the low res pulse from the opti to fire injectors and the ICM. If you are getting spark to the plugs, I would suspect the PCM not firing the injectors for some reason (possible faulty PCM). I would also suspect the injector fuses, but you have voltage on the injectors, so those are prob fine. The PCM has a fuse also that you should check. I would maybe suspect one of the grounds to the PCM if you rearranged the wiring, but I don't have a schematic to tell you which pins on the PCM connectors to check for good ground. Maybe shoebox has one on his site somewhere.

Here is a link to the PCM pinouts on his site. You may have to scroll down. It does list the PCM grounds. I would check all of them for a good ground.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#1995_pcm_pinouts

Clary

If the injectors laid with the gas in them for to long the injectors will gum up from the gas,this has happened to me one time,try spraying some gas in the throttle body to see if it try to start.
Hope this might help.

Gitsum95z

Red lt4, yea i will check them out. im adding 2 more grounds to the motor just encase. im thinking about sending the pcm off and have it retuned hoping to solve the problem. the pcm fuse is good. thanks for post.

clary, i did spray fuel in the throttle body before just to make sure it wasnt mechanical and it did fire right up. even ran as long as i kept spraying. im thinking it is electrical.

thanks for the reply's

Injuneer

Did you scan it for codes?

Did you check the fuel pressure?

Gitsum95z

fuel pressure is on 42lbs and i have fuel all the way to the injector.

im going through all my grounds 1 more time and then loading it up on the trailer and taking it to have scaned for codes.
im thinking of sending the pcm off after that and just get reprogrammed.

REDLT4

Have you checked the PCM grounds?

Gitsum95z

yes. i checked the 2 under the dash, i checked the grounds to the head by the icm. then to the left frame rail. the little black/white wire that comes down by starter is to the block. battery is grounded. the grounds that went to the right fender well are now grounded to the right frame rail. there is no ground wire that i can find in the harness to the back of either head. i checked the one by the radiator mounted on the core support. i made sure the ground from the left side fuse block was good. i have checked left & right bank fuses which are good. there was another ground on the left side of core support and it was good. all grounds were cleaned. battery is new.

Injuneer

Again, did you scan if for codes?

REDLT4

I was more speaking to removing the pcm plugs and making sure that each ground in those plugs to the pcm have little or no resistance to the battery negative terminal.

Guest47904

That's like tearing apart the vacuum cleaner cause it won't turn on, When what you should have done first was look at the plug to see if it's plugged into the wall.

Ever heard of a noid light? I didn't see anywhere in the conversation where you checked for injector pulses. Am I wrong in that regard?

Oh and buy the way, stop looking for grounds. I think you checked so many you even proved mine were good.

Guest47904

What the hell does .88 mean? You measured the resistance of the key pellet while the key was in the lock and the wires were connected to the TDM?

If so that resistance means nothing. You were reading the key in parallel with the TDM so the total sum resistance was quite a bit lower.

If that was the resistance of some resister you used for bypassing the VATS like most of us have done, it's wrong.

Does your security light come on during the prestart light check? If it does then it never goes out cause your engine never starts. If it does not, then you don't know if it's shutting down the injectors or not.

So we're back to a noid light.

I'm gona go out on a limb here and suggest you disconnect the key switch wires and bypass the switch with a resister of the same value as the key that belongs in the car that was with the TDM module the key came with. Use shoe's explanation if you never did it before.

http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

I think it's the only reasonable explanation of why you have no start cause of no fuel.

REDLT4

Its been a while since i owned an fbody but wont vats disable the starter as well?

Injuneer

He has a problem with the injectors not firing. In the first post he indicates the starter cranks it over.

VATS disables fuel.

Faulty injector fuses will disable the injectors (and set a code).

Loss of low res pulse from the Opti will diable the injectors (and set a code).

But apparently, he doesn't want to check for codes, so its just a big guessing game.

lt1-xjs

Sounds like the injectors are stuck to me, after sitting they tend to freeze up.
Tap on them with the key on, or clean , replace them. It happened to me once.