lt1 not turning over still!
01-20-2008, 03:56 PM
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 374
This is a little confusing since you stated in your original post that you checked for leaking fuel injectors and you said there were no leaks. Then you said you think you need a new fuel rail and injectors. What would make you think that?
The plugs are going to smell like fuel if you have been trying to start the motor due to the fact that fuel has been added by the injectors. Unless you are getting massive amounts of fuel blowing out the spark plug hole(s) in the cylinder head when turning over the motor with the starter (obviously with the spark plugs out), then you are not "hydraulicing" the motor.
Put a voltmeter on the battery when you are attempting to actually start the car to ensure the battery voltage is great enough. What is the voltmeter reading? Are the battery cables getting warm when you are trying to start the car? You should first determine if the starting system is adequate to start the car.
The plugs are going to smell like fuel if you have been trying to start the motor due to the fact that fuel has been added by the injectors. Unless you are getting massive amounts of fuel blowing out the spark plug hole(s) in the cylinder head when turning over the motor with the starter (obviously with the spark plugs out), then you are not "hydraulicing" the motor.
Put a voltmeter on the battery when you are attempting to actually start the car to ensure the battery voltage is great enough. What is the voltmeter reading? Are the battery cables getting warm when you are trying to start the car? You should first determine if the starting system is adequate to start the car.
01-20-2008, 04:21 PM
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: St. Charles, IL
Posts: 690
Why did you replace the battery, did you load test the old battery to determine that it needed to be replaced? If you purchased a new battery, who ever sold you the battery should have sold you one with the proper CCA rating for your application, now is probably not the time to inquire what the CCA rating needs to be. If you replaced the battery, is the car still doing the same thing as before? If so, you just wasted your money on a battery that didn't need to be replaced. If you ask for help and someone takes the time to give you specific things to check (rather than the usual guesswork that gets posted) you should really take the time to check what is asked...that is unless you like to just throw parts at the car and hope one of them might fix it. If you check the things that are asked and post your findings, you'll probably get the car fixed a whole lot faster. This is just my .02
01-20-2008, 04:36 PM
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 84
I agree with boosted Z28. Quit guessing and check the starting/charging system. You said that you already checked the injectors and they were not leaking, why replace them? Why would you even consider replacing the fuel rail?
For the second time, Check your cables, connections and grounds! Checking these components is a little more involved than just looking at them and assuming they are OK.
If you are just going to throw a $300 set of injectors on and hope that out of luck it will fix the problem, I would recommend you taking the car to a technician and have them accurately diagnose the car. It will save you money in the long run. Most shops will diagnose for $50 bucks or so.
Good Luck fixing the problem.
For the second time, Check your cables, connections and grounds! Checking these components is a little more involved than just looking at them and assuming they are OK.
If you are just going to throw a $300 set of injectors on and hope that out of luck it will fix the problem, I would recommend you taking the car to a technician and have them accurately diagnose the car. It will save you money in the long run. Most shops will diagnose for $50 bucks or so.
Good Luck fixing the problem.
01-20-2008, 04:38 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 374
Why did you replace the battery, did you load test the old battery to determine that it needed to be replaced? If you purchased a new battery, who ever sold you the battery should have sold you one with the proper CCA rating for your application, now is probably not the time to inquire what the CCA rating needs to be. If you replaced the battery, is the car still doing the same thing as before? If so, you just wasted your money on a battery that didn't need to be replaced. If you ask for help and someone takes the time to give you specific things to check (rather than the usual guesswork that gets posted) you should really take the time to check what is asked...that is unless you like to just throw parts at the car and hope one of them might fix it. If you check the things that are asked and post your findings, you'll probably get the car fixed a whole lot faster. This is just my .02
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