Injuneer

If you smelled gas without the vacuum hose connected, it may be a sign of a leaking fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The fuel would be dripping out of the nipple on the FPR, not on the vacuum line. If the FPR is leaking, it would explain the rich condition, but I would expect to see the worst carbon buildup on the plugs on the passenger bank of the engine.

If it is leaking, check the oil and make sure it isn't getting loaded up with fuel. If you get enough fuel pouring out of the FPR, you can wash down the cylinder walls, damage the rings and dilute the oil.

numskull

Yeah its a pretty big cam. I can take another log this weekend...i have to drag my desktop pc out to the car since my laptop will not connect for some reason. I have the LT1 Edit Software for the car but im too new to this to try and no one close to me knows much and the 1 place that does wants like 400 bucks to check my tune and change it if it needs it.

numskull

It has a holley fpr on it...will a stock on do the job of reducing the flow to the proper pressure? I was planning on changing the oil this weekend. I cant check the oil level because the jacklegs that built the car in NYC speedshop took the dipstick out and welded it up because of the hi compression.....never heard that before....but ok. So i change it about 1 time a month to keep an eye on it and see if its using oil.
As far as carbon build up, both sides seem to be equal, when you look at the plugs all good and black..lol

Injuneer

Stock FPR should work fine. What is the pressure now?

What exactly did they weld up - the tube for the dipstick of the hole in the block for the dipstick tube? Never heard of anything like that either.... and that's due to "high compression"? Maybe it had massive ring blowby, and the pressure was blowing the dipstick tube out, and pouring oil out.

Some of the 4-bolt main conversion caps will block the dipstick path.

numskull

That could be it, it has splined 4 bolt billet caps. Probably so, since theres no blow by up top at the valve covers.

FPR is currently at 30. I can adjust it to 40-42 and it with flood the completely engine out.


Here is all the info off the spec sheet I got with the car.

There are roughly 10,000 miles on the motor and even less on the rear. The car only has <52,000 miles and a clean title. It was professionally built by a speed shop in New York. Below is a list of most of the modifications:




Engine



Forged 383 short block


Splined Billet 4-bolt caps


Eagle forged crank


Eagle forged H-beam 5.7 rods


SRP Forged flat top pistons


Lunati hydraulic roller cam


Cloyes double roller timing chain


CSI electric water pump


ATI serpentine balancer


Heads


Ported LT1 castings


Crane 1.6 roller rockers


Crane valve springs


Stainless steel valves


Intake


Port matched LT1 intake


BBK 58mm throttle body


Volant LS1 ram air intake


Ignition


Stock PCM conservatively tuned with LT1 edit (included)


MSD 6AL ignition box


MSD Launch control #8735


MSD coil


MSD wires


Auto Meter tach and shift light


Drive Train


T-56 6-speed transmission


B&M Ripper shifter


S.P.E.C. stage 4 ceramic clutch (extremely grabby, but totally awesome)


Custom 3 %u00BD driveshaft


Moser Engineering 12 bolt rear with newer 4.11 motive gears / full spool


Suspension


Hal QA1 12-way adjustable shocks (front)


Competition Engineering drag shocks (rear)


S&W adjustable torque arm w/ driveshaft safety loop


Pete Z lower control arms/traction bars


Weld Prostar wheels




Exhaust


Hooker Super Competition long tube headers w/ O2 sensors & AIR tubes


Custom Y-pipe with cut-outs


Q-Tec electric cut-outs


Borla stainless cat back


Fuel System


Dual Walbro 255 LPH in-tank fuel pumps (second pump turns on when N2O is armed)


Accell 36 lb injectors


Accell fuel pressure regulator


Auto Meter fuel pressure gauge


Nitrous system


NX Gen II LT1 kit (adjustable HP levels)


NOS Time-based progressive controller #15835BNOS


MSD timing retard control #8982


MSD RPM window switch


Chassis


10-point custom roll bar


Tubular sub frame connectors


G-Force 5-point restraints


EGR, PCV, HVAC delete


Battery relocated to trunk


Moroso sealed battery box


Mr. Gasket main power switch


Harwood functional ram-air hood


Line-loc on front brakes


Power brake vacuum reserve canister

Injuneer

Can't have the right injector size in the program. You're pulling 17% of the fuel out by running at 30psi instead of 43.5psi. Switching to a stock FPR is going to push it back up to 43.5psi.

Who tuned it?

numskull

I assume the engine builder in NYC. Whats crazy is that is I drive it normal, I still get 17-19 mpg...lol

Here is a quick video I took, as you can see its not smoking at idle, but if I rev it it will, and you can smell gas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e1KF...eature=related

numskull

I have my datamaster log of the closed loop. Its in open loop for 20 secs then goes to closed loop....I forgot to turn my water pump on till the end....When its idled down to abot 700-800 in closed loop the fuel pressure is a touch under 30?


closed_loop_eng.uni - 4shared.com - online file sharing and storage - download

Ii have also located my LT1 edit file that is supose to be in my pcm is you have access to that software I can send that to ya.

Injuneer

I'll look the file over when I get a chance. I don't review PCM tunes - I ditched my stock PCM 12 years ago. I had LT1_Edit, but was using it for odds and ends, not a full performance tune.

numskull

Thanks. Im reading up on that software incase I need to change something...But i was thinking, I have a large cam, in return has low vaccum, reason for my map code? but i also have a vaccum canister, shouldnt that help, my brakes are fine.

Injuneer

It goes into closed loop at 206 seconds run time, with the O2's active and the coolant temp high enough. That's what yours did.

High MAP code is still there, and will probably remain with the 80kPa MAP at idle.

Major case of split BLM's - Cell 16 is the idle cell, and by the end of the log, the left BLM has dropped to 117 (pulling out 8.6% fuel) and the right BLM has elevated to 151 (adding 18% extra fuel). This is a common problem with large aftermarket throttle bodys.

TPS voltage at idle look OK.

Its idling at 700RPM, when its programmed to idle at 600RPM. The idle air controller has dropped down to 9 counts at some points, in response and still isn't pulling the idle down. May be a vacuum leak, faulty IAC, or a stuck throttle cable or blade (although that would throw the TPS volts off). Later in the log, the IAC is 25 counts, and its still idling high - say 675RPM.

MAF flow (8.84 GPS) looks correct.

Injector pulse width is high on the right side due to the elevated BLM.

System voltage is a little low at 12.4V.

Inlet air temp stays at 57.2*F. Is it possible someone stuck a resistor in the IAT sensor?

numskull

IAT and BLM, sry, but what is these. It was about 65* out today when I did the log,I can look for a resistor of I know where its at..
But of not??. I have already Changed the map and IAC sensors...

In your professional op what should I do first. Thanks.

numskull

I spoke with a person about my car this weekend, the last owner was an older guy and wasnt keen on computized cars, I was told he didnt like how low it idled so he tryed to adjust the screw on the throttle body....urg.
I checked for vac leaks this weekend, didnt find any. Also the car was tuned with a 4.11 gear but the owner before went to a 3.73, does this need changed in the tune?
And is there a way to properly set the screw back on my throttle body? There is a link in my sig, i have a clip of idle with a few revs all in one clio, ypu can see running in closed loop

Injuneer

Screw the screw out until the RPM starts to climb, and the IAC counts hit "0". Then start backing off the throttle stop screw SLOWLY until the RPM drops to the programmed idle speed and the IAC counts are in the range of 20-30 counts. Then check the TPS voltage to make sure it is within the range of 0.30 - 0.80V. Some people feel they get the best results with the TPS voltage near 0.50V but there is no reason for that to be the case. The PCM will accept anything between 0.20 - 0.90V and use that value to set the baseline for 0% throttle position.

If the PCM was programmed for 4.11 gears, and they installed 3.73 gears, your speedo will be reading 10% lower than actual speed, or about 54MPH at a true 60 MPH.

numskull

Thanks I will do that. I guess theres no point in worrying about the speedo, since it doesnt work.lol