LT1 Water Pump rebuild? Parts available?
#16
I just bought a new one from Autozone with the lifetime warranty. That way if it needs replacing or if I have to take it off for any reason, such as the opti, I just go get a free new one. Have never had a problem with one yet.
Raceon - If you autocross or do any track days you want to keep the stock pump anyway, they will actually flow better at high sustained RPM vs the electric pumps. Plus, you wouldn't want the electric one to die if you're autox'ing or on a track.
Raceon - If you autocross or do any track days you want to keep the stock pump anyway, they will actually flow better at high sustained RPM vs the electric pumps. Plus, you wouldn't want the electric one to die if you're autox'ing or on a track.
#17
agree completely, mechanical drive is going to be better for an engine thats hovering around 3-4.5k RPM range a lot
#18
Well it is a simple process. I finally found someone who would sell me the seals, bearings etc. Here are some pics, with little write ups.
This is the mechanical seal, which is supposed to stop the weep hole from weeping. And the bearing assembly(Canada *** 151/154 dual bearings already attached to shaft.
First thing is to take 6 cover bolts off to expose impeller.
Then use a punch or whatever you have to get impeller off of shaft, and to somewhat push the shaft bearing assembly out of the bottom.
Once that is done you can tap out the shaft with the bearings useing a light hammer or whatever you want.
Then tap out mechanical seal in the center of the pump and voila, start putting her back together. First put the bearing assembly in from the back of the pump with a light hammer and a 7/8" socket.
Then I put a little, very little RTV on the outside of the mechanical seal and tapped it back in with a 1" socket.
Then put the impeller back on the shaft and use a socket to tap it back to the height it was on the shaft before. NOTE: It may have gotten bent a little (impeller), but you can hit the center and flatten her back.
Once the impeller is back on , put the cover back on with O-Ring supplied with kit.
Done.
here are old bearings and seals.
This is the mechanical seal, which is supposed to stop the weep hole from weeping. And the bearing assembly(Canada *** 151/154 dual bearings already attached to shaft.
First thing is to take 6 cover bolts off to expose impeller.
Then use a punch or whatever you have to get impeller off of shaft, and to somewhat push the shaft bearing assembly out of the bottom.
Once that is done you can tap out the shaft with the bearings useing a light hammer or whatever you want.
Then tap out mechanical seal in the center of the pump and voila, start putting her back together. First put the bearing assembly in from the back of the pump with a light hammer and a 7/8" socket.
Then I put a little, very little RTV on the outside of the mechanical seal and tapped it back in with a 1" socket.
Then put the impeller back on the shaft and use a socket to tap it back to the height it was on the shaft before. NOTE: It may have gotten bent a little (impeller), but you can hit the center and flatten her back.
Once the impeller is back on , put the cover back on with O-Ring supplied with kit.
Done.
here are old bearings and seals.
#20
He is "H2OPUMPMAN1" on ebay. He is kinda standoffish, yet I did get the parts. I just wish I knew where he got them from.
#21
I wish I'd known about him a couple of years ago. I asked the same question then and got only negative responses. I knew somebody would have those parts sooner or later. The actual rebuild should be very easy. And, of course, I recycled the old housing so I can't do it now for a spare.
#24
46 dollars , but that was to Hawaii. So basically 50 dollars. The bearing assembly is very similiar to the gear that drives the water pump from the camshaft.
#28
I emailed him offsite of ebay and he sold me the parts. He was a little reluctant, due to not confident with customers installing these parts. But if you have a press and some patience, you can do it.