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What in the heck did I get myself into with these.

Got the manifolds off with relativly few problems, and spark plug changes were not *that* bad.

Test fit the header on the passanger side, and wow. Got a couple bolts in ok, then thought to myself that spark plugs looked near impossible to put in with the headers in. So I ripped the header out, put the plugs in. Then I couldn't get the header to fit. Had to remove the plugs, put the header back in, and shoved it up as high as I could. Got the plugs back in.

Then I started putting the bolts in. I got some 3/8" locking bolts, and I'm not having much fun at all. These bolts are very odd, and I need a 12 point socket, or the box end of a wrench to fit them. The open end will not fit.

Some of the bolts are to close to the primaries to get the darn open end on, and the socket definatly will not fit. How in the heck do you get these bolts in?

Once the headers are in, can you do spark plug changes? It seems like I may be able to get at the forward 3 (slipped the socket on, with the header in place) but I wasn't even able to get the socket on the plug. It was to long, but if I go any shorter, it will bottom out before hitting the plug.

Haven't started on the drivers side yet, but I'm not expecting fun things there either.

Any weird messed up tools that would make my life easier? Any way to get the 4th spark plug on the passanger side, or do you need to unbolt the header?

Hawk

I have as&m.

Put the headers on without the plugs. I can change all my plugs almost all of them from the top(except the back 2 on the pass side, I go from bottom). I am able to use a thin wall socket on them.

As far as fit issues, I had one problem with mine. I had to enlarge one or 2 bolt holes on the headers for the bolts to thread in correctly without crossthreading the heads. Other then that, just finger tight the bolts in first, and I remember I was able to get them ALL either with a socket or wrench, nothing special. Are you using the stage 8 locking bolts?? I am using those, I think they have ones with small heads which I am probably using, been awhile.

I do remember some bolts taking a LONG time to thread in, I had to put a wrench on it and tighten like 1/8 of a turn each time, what a pain.

Hope this helps,
Brian

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It's good to hear that you are able to get at the plugs. I can't finger tighten these unfortunatly, they are rather snug, and have pretty small heads, with like 12 'points' on them so it's hard to get a good grip. Thanks though, that does give me hope.

One thing I forgot to ask. I got some Over the Valve Cover wires for them, but not really sure how to route them down. With the primaries at the front of the block, looping over the other pipes, it seems like the pipes will heat em up. Any other people running over the vavle cover wires with these, and how are heat issues?

Thanks.

RedRyder518

My AS&M install was also a nightmare. I have a writeup on page 3 of my cardomain page that gives some hints maybe. The one bolt that I absolutely hate is the second bolt on the passenger side. It goes right behind the #2 primary. I have 1" bolts and somehow I managed to get that little bugger in. About the 12 point, I just had some luck. I went to Sears hardware to get a 12 point combo wrench and it just so happened that when it was made, it was offset just a tiny bit so it made it thinner in just the right place. That then allows me to get the wrench on the bolt without it hitting the primary. Good luck trying to find one like that but its possible. If that doesnt work, just take an old wrench and grind down around the outside to make it a little thinner and then it should be able to fit.

I was able to get all the plugs pretty easily, especially compaired to the manifolds. Just keep the patience you've had installing these and the spark plugs will go fine.

Z95m6

thats one of the reasons i don't use 12pt bolts. I always like to be able to get an open end wrench on them.

RedRyder518

I can see that but I'm using Breslin bolts and I love them. They are kind of a pain having to do the whole allen wrench thing, but I have only tightened them once since I've done my headers. I also like the 'stability' of a 12 point when you are tightening it. It seems like a regular bolt will slip easier. I dunno, maybe thats just me?

wrd1972

No mean to highjack-ee but:
Do you still have these issues with the MAC headers when installing?

95patriotZ

I just did a mac install and I didnt have many issues at all. Just take your time and do it right.

Hawk

I have the over the valve cover wires to. THey work fine. You can't use any of the stock routing. I routed them up from the opti in front of the block(under the alternator and the other side right in front of the coil) and then I looped them down to the plugs. With the 90 degree boots you can turn them on the plugs so you get just enough clearance, I probably have 1/2" clearance to a primary on the worst case wire. None of my wires have burned(been 2 years+). Also do a search on it, I'm sure there are pictures somewhere of the setup.

Brian

Fastbird93

Here's some tips and tricks I found after putting my ASM's back in when my heads went back on a couple of weeks back:

On the passenger side, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th bolts back, it REALLY helps if you use a 3/4" bolt instead of a 1" bolt. Makes a tremendous difference.

Install the headers with the plugs out. They should both slide in from the top.

Don't forget to put the #1 primary into the slip fitting on the driver side before dropping the driver side in.

And if possible, use the short wrenches, and take a string and tie a large loop through the closed end and put it around your wrist. You're bound to drop it once.

Lastly, ditch the 12 point bolts and get some regular six points.