I'm looking at ARP's catalog, and here are the choices they have for Chevy:

Large journal (hex)
Large journal (12 pt nuts)
Large journal with windage tray
Large journal with straps (F & R caps)
Small journal
Small journal with windage tray

Are our blocks small or large journal? I'm thinking its one of the bolded options.

 

If you have an LT1 block, it's large journal. The choice of running a windage tray is up to you. FYI, small journal blocks are first generation 265, 283, and early 327.

 

Thanks,

There is a windage tray stock correct?

 

The stock windage tray will not work with arp studs. Search on here for Milodan (sp?) studs. You should be getting a larger pan and HV pump with a motor rebuild anyway.

 

I've used the Milodon "Diamond Stripper" windage screen with ARP studs and a stock LT1 pan on some motors. It can be a real challenge to fit everything inside, especially with splayed main caps but i prefer that to the stock windage tray. In fact, over the years I've come to prefer using no windage device at all rather than the stock, flat tray.

If you can fit a larger pan into your car (and budget) it will pay dividends in terms of keeping oil away from the crankshaft. I use a Moroso #21239 but as the catalog says, "some modifications" are required. There are different schools of thought relative to the use of HV oil pumps. So far, after several hundred passes in excess of 8200 RPM, the standard volume pump is working out well for me.

c

 

I have the moroso pan for our cars and I didn't have to make any modifications. The only problem I found is that you can't R&R the oil level sensor with this pan and long tubes with the header and pan attached.

 

I will still be using the 2-bolt main caps, the engine was rebuilt four years ago and doesn't have a lot of miles on it, but I'm having the car and engine bay painted; while the engine is out I figured I would go through it and make some of the changes I couldn't do before because of money and see how everything looks.

I'll have to take a look at the Moroso pump and I guess ditch the stock windage tray.

 

If you're changing from bolts to studs, I'm 99% positive you'll need to hone the mains and recheck all of your clearances with the bearings and such. Hopefully someone more experienced will reply, but I know when I built my motor, we had to decide bolts or studs before any machine work because it wouldn't match if I changed after.

 

Seawolf's recommendation is sound advice. I'm sure that there a people somewhere who have managed to get away without double checking the alignment of the mains and bearing clearances but I wouldn't take the chance. There's too much aggravation, expense, and labor at stake.

 

I may just have to save the main studs for another build-up then. I'm trying to have everything completed before the Indy car show in September so I don't have a lot of time to wait on the local machine shop. If I just change to ARP bolts, would any honing need to be done?

Also, what needs to be done to change the connecting rod bolts to ARP, I've read that the factory ones are knurled, does a machine shop need to clean up the bores?

 

If you want to change out the rod bolts you're going to have to remove all the rods, bring them to a machine shop to get the old bolts removed, the new ones pressed in and all of the rods resized. Then again, you'll have to check clearances on all the rod journals.

You will probably be ok going from stock bolts to ARP bolts. They may require a little more torque, but I think the distortion will be minimal. Just follow the directions to the letter for the torque values and pattern.

Refreshing a motor is a lot more involved than you thought isn't it?

 

Yeah just a little, haha.

Well I might just have to re-ring it and put new gaskets on and call it a day

 

That's up to you. If you're taking all the pistons out, I would get the ARP rod bolts done. Not sure why they weren't done the first time???

It isn't much money and with those heavy pistons, you'll probably need them.

 

I was in high school when I rebuilt the engine the first time, and I'm not sure if it was an oversight or just running out of money. There are several things I would've done different if I was building the engine now...I've learned a lot in the last four years

 

I did the same thing when I rebuilt my first engine. Ended up having the valves tapping on the pistons. :roll

I built it much much better the second time and the motor is excellent.