Mallory 685 Wiring
#17
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
It's not defective. All CD ignition boxes get hot. You can't hold your hand on mine after 30 minutes of driving. Open the box door if you are worried about the heat building too high. You can pull the glove box bulb if you worry about forgetting it and draining the battery over night.
Mallory provides a loopback connector that allows you to bypass and effectively turn your new CD ignition box off. The bypass plugs into the wiring harness right where the Mallory has the gang plug. If you have the bypass loop connector make sure you plug it into the wiring harness and NOT the ignition box. This will allow you to go back to stock without opening the hood.
It is a good idea to use the Mallory only when you need it, like with nitrous or forced induction. The amplification to the ignition shortens the life of the opti-spark distributor or so I have been told.
Mallory provides a loopback connector that allows you to bypass and effectively turn your new CD ignition box off. The bypass plugs into the wiring harness right where the Mallory has the gang plug. If you have the bypass loop connector make sure you plug it into the wiring harness and NOT the ignition box. This will allow you to go back to stock without opening the hood.
It is a good idea to use the Mallory only when you need it, like with nitrous or forced induction. The amplification to the ignition shortens the life of the opti-spark distributor or so I have been told.
#18
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
Originally Posted by 97formulakid
OK does the Camaro have a different sized glove box than that Firebird?? I tried to fit the Mallory in my glove box and it seemed like it wouldn't go in.
#20
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
Originally Posted by 01Z
It's not defective. All CD ignition boxes get hot. You can't hold your hand on mine after 30 minutes of driving. Open the box door if you are worried about the heat building too high. You can pull the glove box bulb if you worry about forgetting it and draining the battery over night.
Mallory provides a loopback connector that allows you to bypass and effectively turn your new CD ignition box off. The bypass plugs into the wiring harness right where the Mallory has the gang plug. If you have the bypass loop connector make sure you plug it into the wiring harness and NOT the ignition box. This will allow you to go back to stock without opening the hood.
It is a good idea to use the Mallory only when you need it, like with nitrous or forced induction. The amplification to the ignition shortens the life of the opti-spark distributor or so I have been told.
Mallory provides a loopback connector that allows you to bypass and effectively turn your new CD ignition box off. The bypass plugs into the wiring harness right where the Mallory has the gang plug. If you have the bypass loop connector make sure you plug it into the wiring harness and NOT the ignition box. This will allow you to go back to stock without opening the hood.
It is a good idea to use the Mallory only when you need it, like with nitrous or forced induction. The amplification to the ignition shortens the life of the opti-spark distributor or so I have been told.
well that eases my mind alot, thanks.... I just want to make sure it isnt getting to hot on the plastic inside the glove box...
what about tuning? what is your thoughts on this, is it needed after the install?
#21
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
The CD ignition runs outside of the PCM influence. What I mean by that is this; the Mallory does all its timing adjustments without the PCM / ECU. Basically you can have your PCM tuned and then add the Mallory ignition to adjust the spark retard and RPM limits. The PCM will not know about these things and can do nothing about the Mallory control unless it gets there first. The spark retard happens AFTER the PCM has its way with the ignition timing. The RPM limits set by the Mallory are controlled without the influence of the PCM. That is why you should set your RPM limit in the PCM out of the way. I think my 95 is set to 6500 RPM (where it cuts fuel) but I have the Mallory cut spark at 6000. The Mallory then has control. I'll try to explain this better if you need more help as I'm going off to work right now.
#22
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
so you can run one of these without having an extra "map" harness to retard timing? (as stated when its for sale) i want to use with my nitrous setup and i want the box off until i arm the nitrous system...is this possible?
and do i need any other connectors or harnesses to connect this? or just what it comes with from jegs?
and do i need any other connectors or harnesses to connect this? or just what it comes with from jegs?
Last edited by Daniel6718; 08-24-2006 at 02:47 AM.
#23
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
If you don't have a SC/TC the MAP sensor connector is simply connected to nothing and #8 on the mode control will have no effect. You don't need an additional harness.
The box is disconnected when the loopback connector is installed to the wiring that is connected to the coil and power supply. This is done manually but someone who is creative will be able to come up with a circuit and component that can switch between the loopback and direct connection to the coil through the arming switch but you still must shut the car off to make the switch. As it is though, you will either have the box connected or not and it is done by hand.
I will drive the car to the track with Mallory off but will plug it in when I get ready to use the nitrous. People who want the nitrous ready at all times will need to just drive around with the CD ignition always active.
It is really helpful to have the little harness that hooks to your coil (MSD 8876). This will keep you from cutting and splicing into your factory wires. This harness is handy but overpriced for what it is. If you can get the Mallory harness then you won't have to do any wire color converting. Here's a thread that explains it.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...lory+connector
The box is disconnected when the loopback connector is installed to the wiring that is connected to the coil and power supply. This is done manually but someone who is creative will be able to come up with a circuit and component that can switch between the loopback and direct connection to the coil through the arming switch but you still must shut the car off to make the switch. As it is though, you will either have the box connected or not and it is done by hand.
I will drive the car to the track with Mallory off but will plug it in when I get ready to use the nitrous. People who want the nitrous ready at all times will need to just drive around with the CD ignition always active.
It is really helpful to have the little harness that hooks to your coil (MSD 8876). This will keep you from cutting and splicing into your factory wires. This harness is handy but overpriced for what it is. If you can get the Mallory harness then you won't have to do any wire color converting. Here's a thread that explains it.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...lory+connector
#24
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
so ill need the msd harness...and i can pull timing with this without having any other map harness or anything? im assuming you just program it into the box?
sound kool but from what im reading its alot of wiring for a retard, wondow switch, ect...guess ill find out soon...that msd harness is 27 bux? wow think 15 would be more reasonable
sound kool but from what im reading its alot of wiring for a retard, wondow switch, ect...guess ill find out soon...that msd harness is 27 bux? wow think 15 would be more reasonable
#25
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
When you get the Hyfire you will understand the programming. It is simple to the point that Mallory has the modes silk screened on the face of the unit.
You will be using the primary rpm control which requires nothing but to have the unit connected to your coil. The spark retard and Rpm high/low switch is the magenta wire that acts as a ground when triggered (for activating your solenoids). The yellow spark retard accepts a 12volt signal that activates the spark retard value that you have set on the face of the unit. The simplest method is to supply voltage to the yellow wire when you arm the nitrous system. I have the 12volts supplied when the RPM window switch is activated.
You can download the Mallory PDF and read up on what you are getting.
You will be using the primary rpm control which requires nothing but to have the unit connected to your coil. The spark retard and Rpm high/low switch is the magenta wire that acts as a ground when triggered (for activating your solenoids). The yellow spark retard accepts a 12volt signal that activates the spark retard value that you have set on the face of the unit. The simplest method is to supply voltage to the yellow wire when you arm the nitrous system. I have the 12volts supplied when the RPM window switch is activated.
You can download the Mallory PDF and read up on what you are getting.
#26
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
Originally Posted by 01Z
When you get the Hyfire you will understand the programming. It is simple to the point that Mallory has the modes silk screened on the face of the unit.
You will be using the primary rpm control which requires nothing but to have the unit connected to your coil. The spark retard and Rpm high/low switch is the magenta wire that acts as a ground when triggered (for activating your solenoids). The yellow spark retard accepts a 12volt signal that activates the spark retard value that you have set on the face of the unit. The simplest method is to supply voltage to the yellow wire when you arm the nitrous system. I have the 12volts supplied when the RPM window switch is activated.
You can download the Mallory PDF and read up on what you are getting.
You will be using the primary rpm control which requires nothing but to have the unit connected to your coil. The spark retard and Rpm high/low switch is the magenta wire that acts as a ground when triggered (for activating your solenoids). The yellow spark retard accepts a 12volt signal that activates the spark retard value that you have set on the face of the unit. The simplest method is to supply voltage to the yellow wire when you arm the nitrous system. I have the 12volts supplied when the RPM window switch is activated.
You can download the Mallory PDF and read up on what you are getting.
I hooked the yellow wire up to the soilinoid wire, that way its only pulling timing when it sprays, not on the launch or anything like that.
#27
Re: Mallory 685 Wiring
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
I hooked the yellow wire up to the soilinoid wire, that way its only pulling timing when it sprays, not on the launch or anything like that.
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