I'm just wondering right now my egr valve keeps turning on my service engine light so I am going to block it off. I'm wondering if my light is going to permanently be on because the comp will not be reading any egr activity.

 

Probably after disabling the valve via no vaccumn supply to the solenoid or diaphram, with your OBD2 it may turn the light on 'DTC P0400 EGR System' I think for lack of seeing the change in MAP pressure but if you keep the EGR control soleniod in place with the electrical connector hooked to it you won't get 'DTC P0403 EGR Solenoid Control Circuit' which you will no doubt get if you disconnect that solenoid.

 

why not just replace the egr valve? What codes is it throwing?

 

I completely understand there is no performance gain by doing this and I might be labeled as an earth hater. But here is are my reasons to get rid of the EGR if emmissions are not an issue.

1. I have gone through 3 EGR valves at $60 a pop which throws code 32.

2.The infamous LT1 intake rear oil leak is caused by the EGR. The expansion and contraction of the metal from the exhaust air inside and outside the metal flexible tube is the culprit. It can also cause the intake bolts to loosen a bit.
This happens to many LT1 guys and requires removing, gasketing and siliconing and reinstalling the intake. This is not fun. If you have oil on the back of the engine look at the intake.

3.If the EGR is in the process of dying it can stick open, this actually happened to me. Upon starting the engine it coughs and chokes and wont run right due to the huge vaccum leak.

I did a header install and I blocked off the EGR with the three aluminum plates and had the function disabled in my tune and have not looked back.
This cant be all that bad cause the LT4 did not have an EGR a a result of the bigger cam.

If I could have counted on the thing to work and last I would have left it intact.

Regarding the AIR, I still have all that system still intact.

 

hmm, you have that response saved don't you. lol .

My EGR valve did die, and did throw a code 32, however a replacement fixed it. It has been working for the past two years. Also, no oil leak for the past two years.

 

You have been fortunate to not have the leak but many have not been.

I deleted the system while I was doing header install cause it was easy.

To me it just aint worth the risk, however to others it may be.

 

I just ordered some EGR plates because mine is throwing the code 32 as well.

I figure one less thing to worry about.

But in my case it doesn't do a whole lot of choking or anything, I think it's stuck closed or something? The only noticable result that mine has is horrible gas mileage(12-13mpg city). I think it may be low on power at certain rpms like others say, but I'm not positive.

 

You will need to have the EGR function disabled with a custom tune or you will still get the 32 code.

 

Well, I've been on here for quite a while {2+ hrs} typing up a very long, and descriptive reply response to everyones questions, individually, concerning this subject of EGR's & more, with a good 3rd hour for tracking down the links with my crappy ^^^ dail-up and some ideas based on my experience to try to explain, help, disagree, learn and agree with everyones post so far, but this crappy ^^^ connection just waisted all that and I have very little patience or trust to try that again. And I also have other things to do, although not as important as trying to help any of you that I can. So I'm going to try this one post at a time, this time.
Sorry about the 3 letter words.