dnz28

270 duration it possible but
1) stock heads and that wouldnt mix
2) your power would be made so far up in the rpms that well your computer will limit it and you will never see the daylight of max hp.
3) idle would be terrible and most like be set a 1500-2000 just to stay a float.
350 stock ported heads highest duration i would go is 240ish

Edit: so unless gods building that engine its not going to work out.

RealQuick

I am hoping he means 270 gross duration (@ .006?), not the commonly used .050 advertised duration.

Dave88LX

He wants a 3/4 race cam

I don't know what to tell you man, you're building your engine ALL wrong. Figure out what you can get for heads/intake work/etc, and get a cam BASED ON your engine.

You don't pick a cam you want to use and build an engine around it. Y ou try to build it as a whole package, and get the best cam to match what you have in the engine.

It's your money to waste though.

Speedfreak19

Well I really appreciate yall laughin at me..This is such a great forum..I said I was new to these engines and I needed help..but all yall wanna do is ****in laugh at me so i really appreciate it...I told yall the stuff I wanted to do to it and see if yall could help me but yall just laugh..Now maybe if someone would like to help me id really appreciate..and if all your gonna do is laugh at me then ****off..

jkipp84

I think if you're looking at a rebuild due to high mileage, you're going to want new bearings, cleaned up block, etc. Not the heads, cam, lifters, etc. Quite a few have gone the heads and cam or just a cam route and shortly after it gets running, bam - spun bearing.

I know you said you didn't want to bore or anything, but a budget 355 build would probably be your best bet to start off. Add heads and cam to that.. Get good parts and you'll be able to spin to those high rpm's without so much worry as with the old 'run down' short block.

As for what cam, the most recommened way to go about choosing a cam that I've seen is to base it on the cylinder heads and what you plan on doing with the car. If you're building an all out racer, you want a beast cam that sucks for daily driving. Since you plan on using the car for daily duties, this is definitely not the route to go.

Since the short block work will eat up a good chunk of change, I'd be looking at a good cam for stock heads. There are plenty of off the shelfers that'll get the job done. Around 400hp at the engine won't be a problem.

Dave88LX

Listen, we realize you are new, that's why we're trying to help you. What we're trying to get you to realize is that you're going all wrong about building this engine. You don't build the engine around a particular cam.

You won't have to worry about boring the block unless you decide to get into the bottom end. Unless you are having problems with your bottom end, then leave that alone. Put the money into the heads/valvetrain/exhaust.

What is your budget? That's what we need to start with.

www.advancedinduction.com go there and do some reading see what he has to offer. Sounds like an Econoport is right up your alley. Talk with him and tell him your goals and see what he reccomends for your combo, goals, and budget.

When you say "pull out the block and rebuild it", what exactly are you going to do to the shortblock, what parts are you going to replace?

What if your cylinder walls are worn out...

IrocSS85

yeah, you have to realize some poeple on here can come off as **** hole's sometimes to newbies. you need to tell us what you are planning on doin, how you are plannin on using this car (you said this is a fun car, not daily driver right?), and most importantly, your total budget. if you only have say $500, your introuble. if you have a couple grand laying around, that should get you started. I am rebuilding my engine right now and I have spent ALOT more on the short block then I did on the upper half. if you do all the work your self, you should be able to rebuild the short block for less then a grand. trw makes a good piston that is cheap and will come in the stock 4.00 size you will need if you dont have to bore the cylinders. I almost didnt bore mine, since the cyl.s looked almost perfect, but I changed my mind due to how much Im putting into the crank/rods/pistons. I figure why take a chance on the cyl.s not being the perfect shape and making an oil burning machine. but anyways, if you go with a econoport job, then Id say stick with a cam about the size of mine. 230's duration. if you get some of the better port jobs, you can go bigger, but at the expense of low rpm torque. if you want to rev past 6500, you'll need a rev kit along withe the more expensive double valve springs.
but, back to your orig. request, you can make 425 HP easily w/o a HUGE cam. if you put in a cam that is too big, you will LOSE alot of power, and your car will feel like a pig driving around.
another thing to think about, is if you want a big cam because of the way they sound, you can always get a normal size cam thats ground with a lower lobe seperation number. for instance a cam that is 114 lobe seperation will idle smooth compared to a cam w/a 110 lobe seperation, even if all the other numbers are identical.

97WS6SCharged

Ditto.

Listen, no one is laughing at you for having goals. We're laughing cause you ask for advice and then you refuse to take it. Most of us know what happens when you shove the biggest cam you can find into a motor. It just doesn't work like it should. In theory a big cam would be great, it'll rev to xxxx rpm and make all kinds of power. In reality, it idles terribly, doesn't make enough vacuum to run the brakes, it shuts off, and if you do get it to rev to the moon something will turn loose shortly thereafter. Ask a few people what happens when a rod cap comes loose, or a main cap bolt stretches. It's not a pretty sight and it usually involves large sums of money to rectify that mistake.

Speedfreak19

alright now we are getting somewhere...I really appreciate the help...Ok the car is not gonna be a daily driver...I have other cars..so I want to beef it up a little more then a daily driver...If my cylinder walls are good and not to tore up then im just gonna hone it really good and rering it. Im gonna buy a total rebuild kit so all bearing and seals will be changed..Ok im going to drop my intake and heads off to a buddy over at a machine shop..I am going to get a massive port job he says..Ill find out what massive he means..I want to run double valve springs and some better valves..As for as the rockers I guess a 1.6 will work huh?? The cam I know what a lobe seperation is and I want it to idle kinda rough..I want you to know its there...so a 110 would work what do you think? Also what do yall think about pushrods etc? Im going to run some long tube headers if thats the best route..also im sure ill be puttin some timing work on it to like some MSD stuff not sure what yet..This isn't going to be no quick build Im going to take my time on this engine..

97WS6SCharged

So why not build a stroker?

Speedfreak19

I dont think my pocket could handle that...How much that run? Otherwise can yall start naming some brands that I need to start looking through for cams and stuff?

97WS6SCharged

You can get a whole rotating assembly for about a grand. Then there's a little big extra when you do the block work to clearance the block for the longer crank throws.

Cams and whatnot...

Comp. Cams
Crane
Crower
Lunati

Speedfreak19

Ill think about it...But ok as far as the parts..whats the specs on the cams rockers etc i need to look for?

Dave88LX

Don't even worry about that stuff yet IMO.

Start with the bottom and go up.

You should be good with the same combo I'm running.

Scat 9000 crank
Scat 4340 forged I-beams
SRP Pistons, or Probe, or TRW.
You could get KB Hypers if you wanted as well.

97WS6SCharged

Comps Pro Mag 1.6 rockers are awesome. Their high tech 7.200" pushrods are also nice, and their Comp R roller lifters work very well.

I still think you'd be good with the 224/230 from Comp.

Comp Cams TN224XL Camshaft 224/230 duration @ .050", .536"/.544" lift with 1.6 rockers, 112lsa. This cam is a very popular choice for street/strip cars because of its aggressive lope, great power, and street manners.

I'm running a slightly larger Comp in my 383 that I'm building for my S10.

Comp Cams TN230XL Camshaft 230/236 duration @ .050", .544/.555" lift with 1.6 rockers, 112lsa. Larger camshaft with lopey idle, excellent top end. 3000+ stall recommended for auto cars. Computer tuning required.