97WS6SCharged

Yeah, you would need the 95 opti and timing cover and the vented harness. Jason or Dal can hook you up with everything you need there at a decent price.

As far as which setup is better. Neither. In the end they both cost about the same. With the LT4, you wouldn't have to convert to an electric water pump, but it's still $200+. With the double roller, you have to convert to the electric pump which is $130 (CSI) plus the chain, which is $70.

Speedfreak19

so if i run the LT4 then I wont need the new cover but will still need the 95 optispark?

Speedfreak19

CC-TN-233XL Comp Cams TN233XL Camshaft 233/239 duration @ .050", .569"/.577" lift with 1.6 rockers, 112lsa. Maximum effort horsepower cam for stock displacement engines, incredible mid range/top end. RPM range 3500-6700

CC-1305-16 Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 Ratio Rocker Arms
7/16" stud, non-self aligning

CC-4501-16 Comp Cams 7/16" SBC Rocker Arm Studs


CC-7940-16 Comp Cams Hi-Tech One Piece Chromemoly Pushrods
7.200" length, stock for LT1 and LT4

CC-875-16 Comp Cams "R" Series Hydraulic Roller Lifters
fits all LT1, LT4, and Small Block Chevy w/Factory Hydraulic Rollers

GM-12370835 GM LT4 Extreme Duty Timing Chain Set
includes true roller chain, timing gear, crank gear

Im not sure which valves and valve springs to run will someone go on cmotorsports.com and let me know which ones to get. Also what locks and seats ill need with them. Since im having my heads and ported will that matter about the length of the pushrods? Will those work?

97WS6SCharged

You will still need the new cover.

Speedfreak19

How does my setup look though? Can you help me out with the valves and valve springs i need to run. What all do i need to order with them as in locks and seats?

97WS6SCharged

EX-612-16 EX Components 612 Single Coil Extreme Performance Valve Spring Kit
fits stock head without machining, includes lightweight retainers and locks $109.97

ARP-134-3701 ARP LT1/SBC Head Bolt Kit 12 Point $59.97

EX-561-8 EX Components 5/16" Guideplates $15.97

-6165 Ferrea LT1 2.000" 6000 Series Intake Valve 4.960" Overall Length $12.97

F-6161 Ferrea LT1 1.560" 6000 Series Exhaust Valve 4.960" Overall Length $12.97

Speedfreak19

I dont need to run a dual valve spring?? Also everything will meet up with me gettin a massive port job or does it matter?

97WS6SCharged

You can run a dual spring if you want. Those springs are good to .600 lift without having to machine the heads.

Everything should work with your port job, as long as your buddy doesn't screw anything up.

Speedfreak19

So basically I can get however big of a port job I can afford doesn't really matter how big of one I get right?? Also how much power do you think ill be running with that setup? Also with computer work and long tube headers and exhaust?

IrocSS85

thats exactly my setup. everything you have listed. only diff. is I dont have the timing chain. since Im rebuilding my eng now, Im goin with the csi waterpump and cloyes true roller chain. also I have stock valves in my heads. you can run the stock length pushrods as long as you dont have the heads or block decked, and the valves are stock length. if I were you, Id buy a pushrod length checker and have the eng. assembled mostly to mock up the rockers on one (at least one) cylinder to see if the stock length pushrod is right for you. then buy the pushrods. I was shootin for around 475 crank HP with that setup. I think the port job will make it or break it. the best thing you can do for a tune would be a dyno tune. but those cost around $550 round here. you'll have to find out in your area. but you can get a mailorder tune from madwolf (ion) tuner@madz28.com is his email. now I had 3:73 gears in my car, but Id suggest 4.10 gears stick or auto. and I only have a 2800 stall in mine. but if you hace an auto, Id suggest about a 3500. now dont get me wrong, this combo was very fast "feeling". I didnt get a chance to get to the track or race anyone, so I dont know for sure. Ion did my tune and it was close atleast. cause when I pulled the plugs after the 300 mi.s, they looked great. and the rev limiter was set at 6700rpm, which I hit a few times while geting on it. it revs very quick and pulls strong to that rpm. now that I have a all forged crank/rods/pistons, I'll have him put the rev limit at 7500 and I'll use my MSD to limit the revs. then I can play with shift points at the track to see where the power falls off.

IrocSS85

and yes, get the biggest port you can get. it will only help w/top end power. you will need long tube headers and custom tune also.

93ZM6Tally

I've got a 93 with a true roller timing chain. I already had the upgraded 95 style opti. Worth it if just for the fact that replacements are cheaper. The electric water pump was a good mod for me. Just not having to replace the stupid waterpump shaft seal makes it worthwhile. That seal has to be the stupidest thing I've ever seen on a car. I think it only took me three tries to get it right. BTW if you do have to replace the seal, the original GM seal seems to be better quality than the Felpro replacement.

Oh and my$0.2 about your engine rebuild. Go with a stroker and some decent bottom end parts, you'll thank yourself later. There is obviously some expense, but you don't have to go crazy. A good crankshaft like the SCAT 9000 is a good buy and some decent rods and pistons. Good luck.

Speedfreak19

Just a quick question do yall think that those valves and springs are good enough for my setup especially throughout rpm range? Or do I need to go bigger? Cause of valve float

IrocSS85

you shoulldnt have any valve float. like I said, I hit my rev limimter a few times at 6700rpm and there was no valve float at all. and I believe those ferrea valves are lighter then the stock valves.

Speedfreak19

If I was to bore my block say .30 could I still run the same setup as I posted? Or would I have to change stuff? Also can I use same connecting rods and stuff if i bore it just change the pistons?