elitecamaro94

ok guys I went to a shop today and they told me my driver side motor mount is busted, I have a 94 z28 and they want 150 for the one mount. Does anyone know where i can get a good mount for less than this?

blwn31

I've got a set out of a 94, I'll look at them tomorrow. $40 ea shipped.
Let me know.


Keith...

caldercay

Went to a shop? Does that $150 mean parts and labor? That's a good price.

Anyway, I bought the complete 3-mount Prothane (urethane) mounts ($72 engine and tranny):
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294840140

You can get one for $25 or the pair for $50. This is the urethane mount
ONLY (not the whole motor mount with clamshell and rubber) ... you
remove the mount, open up the clamshell, remove the bad rubber mount,
then install the urethane mount, close the clamshell, and bolt it up with
the supplied bolts/nuts, then install the unit back in.

ssbowtie1

Are you looking for a stock replacement? If you are, call Jason Cromer (his contact info can be found on shoebox's site).

Personally I'm going with the Prothane polyurethane motor and transmission mounts. The motor mounts go for ~$50 for both sides.

caldercay

Hey - ssbowtie ...

I would do some research first. I bought the 3-mount Prothane kit, but I've
read from folks that say their tail-shaft housing (tranny) cracked because
of the urethane mount - probably because it doesnt provide enough
flexibility for the tranny to twist under load.

I've installed the Prothane engine mounts, but I reinstalled (today) the
original rubber mount upon installing the new FLT tranny. Personally,
I dont want to take a chance and break the tail-shaft housing. I will do
more research (will talk to FLT and others) about using the urethane
tranny mount.

You might want to just get the engine mounts for now.

ssbowtie1

Thanks caldercay I'll just go with the poly engine mounts and the ls1 trans mount for now.

Not to goo too off topic but did you do the install with the motor in the car? If so how was it?

caldercay

Yea, did the tranny mount change-out with the motor in place. It's really easy, actually . . . I have pictures of the whole process. Basically, you:

* loosen the bolts (the 3 mounting to the block) on the driver's side.
* jack up the engine (slightly) on that side, then remove the bolts
(there are 3 bolts on the engine block.)
* remove the long, through-bolt (it runs front-to-back) which runs through
the mount and rubber.
* now what you have in your hand is a metal "clamshell" casing with
the rubber mount in the center.
* grind away the rivets on ONE side of the clamshell casing.
(you'll have to drill out the rivets' shaft too)
* open the clamshell casing and pull out the bad rubber
* put in the new urethane mount
* close the clamshell casing using a bench vise or vise-grips
* use the supplied bolts to "seal" the clamshell on the side
where you removed the rivets.
* re-install complete motor mount back on the block and replace
the through-bolt
* drop engine on that side back down

#2 ... do the same to the passenger side.

This takes about 1-2 hours, tops (unless of course, you have problems )

I'll supply photos when I get them uploaded.

ssbowtie1

Thanks alot. Will be looking out for those pics, feel free to email them too if you want. gtelec3917@yahoo.com

elitecamaro94

what is shoebox's site i have never heard of it, thanks for the info guys i just need stock replacement for now or would it be better to get the other ones your talking about and as for whoever asked is the 150 price for labor and part that's a no. it is 255 for labor and mount. I don't want to get vibration in the car at freeway speeds i thought i heard that the prothane mounts vibrate like crazy?

ssbowtie1

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason

Call and ask for Jason Cromer. No need to drop any names he'll know

caldercay

Here's one photo:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...77606924860930

This is the driver's side mount. The red markings are the bolt locations where
the mount bolts to the block. The yellow markings are where the through-bolt
slides though the frame-mount, through this rubber (er, urethane) and is
capped off with a nut.

The blue markings - those are, originally, rivets - you grind off the heads and
then take a drill bit and drill out the rivet's shaft. Once you remove the rivet
material, you pry open the clamshell on that one side. Open it enough to
remove that bad ol' rubber piece. (I used a screwdriver to open it).

Then slide in the new urethane mount and clamp that side of the clamshell
down so the two sides meet again, then use the supplied bolts to bolt the
clamshell back together. Afterwards, I painted it black to match and to
keep the rust away.

here's the passenger side:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...80385768701458

The red markings are where you remove the rivets and their shaft.
Open the clamshell, complete. Throw away old rubber, position the
new urethane, put the "top" of the clamshell back on, then use the
two supplied bolts to close the clamshell back.

I discovered you have to GRIND the tops of the bolts, otherwise the
mount will "rock" in its position on the frame. Let me see if I can find
a photo of the ground.

Here's another shot of the passenger side:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...82288439213602

This is the "bottom" of the mount, which bolts to the frame.

The red markings - I had to grind down the top of the bolt head so
that it was flush (even with) the flat surface of the mount. You will
notice the blue markings - those grinds show when the bolt heads
were ground to the same level as the clamshell. Paint it black to
match and alleviate rust.

dangalla

actually i think that happens when you install only a trans mount, the motor moves but the trans does not

caldercay

That would make sense, but for me, it's good insurance to do some research
before installing that poly tranny mount. I mean, I just dropped the new FLT
tranny a couple of days ago

I can see how using a poly mount on the tranny will want to resist any twisting
motion - and if the car has factory engine mounts, that rubber will allow the
engine to twist some - so something has to give, which would be the weakest
link, the aluminum housing. Using the poly engine mounts suggests that the
engine will not twist as it would with rubber.

Pro_built7

I just installed motor and trans mounts myself. do not go poly on the trans and not engine. go poly on : motor only, or all.

Go with prothane poly kit from jegs for like 75$

Pro_built7

I've never heard of anyone having a problem as long as both the engine and trans both have poly's. The problem occurs when you have urethane trans and rubber engine mounts. the rubber obviously gives more and twists the tail trans housing against the poly trans mount. which gives less. but if you have both poly you should be fine, it would take some pretty dang extreme situation to cause the poly engine mounts to move enough to cause the tailshaft to crack.