View Poll Results: Which oil?
Catrol GTX
19
10.92%
Quaker State
5
2.87%
havoline
1
0.57%
valvoline
19
10.92%
penzoil (****ty oil)
6
3.45%
Mobile 1 synthetic
103
59.20%
Other synthetic
15
8.62%
other...
6
3.45%
Voters: 174. You may not vote on this poll
Which motor oil?
07-03-2003, 11:06 AM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: dallas, tx, usa
Posts: 662
Originally posted by Patman
That is one of the worst oils you can use. First of all, it is a dino oil, as Castrol Syntec is not a real synthetic (except for their 0w30 which is labelled made in Germany) Second of all, in order to span such a huge viscosity range, that oil contains TONS of viscosity index improvers. Third, a 50wt oil is too thick for the LT1, and you're going to see higher engine wear as a result. Oil analysis results prove that the LT1 does not need such a thick oil.
That is one of the worst oils you can use. First of all, it is a dino oil, as Castrol Syntec is not a real synthetic (except for their 0w30 which is labelled made in Germany) Second of all, in order to span such a huge viscosity range, that oil contains TONS of viscosity index improvers. Third, a 50wt oil is too thick for the LT1, and you're going to see higher engine wear as a result. Oil analysis results prove that the LT1 does not need such a thick oil.
I've had great results with with this oil, ie: no metal on the magnetic drain plug, no loss of oil between oil changes, clean burning plugs.
Seriously, if its not synthetic I would like to read this elsewhere, and as far as the 50w index that is more of a heat/stress related index, the 5w is more of a "thick"ness index.
07-03-2003, 12:03 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 73
Anybody know what site I can get Royal Purple from? Wanna put some in the tranny and rearend. Also I heard that with hard driving like driving in heavy traffic, heavy on the foot, etc. its better to use a non synthetic oil? This true? Im about do my first oil change in my car since i got it two weeks ago and would like to know if i should go synthetic or syn-blend or something.
07-03-2003, 02:00 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 679
Originally posted by quicksilver97ta
Where did you hear/read that it is not synthetic? I would like to look into this if you could post a link thats not 3rd party hear-say. And what oil analysis?? "LT1" is a broad reference. Do you mean stock with low milage? Increased power is increased heat and heat is stress, no to metion revving above the stock 5600 rpm rev limiter will create stress as well.
I've had great results with with this oil, ie: no metal on the magnetic drain plug, no loss of oil between oil changes, clean burning plugs.
Seriously, if its not synthetic I would like to read this elsewhere, and as far as the 50w index that is more of a heat/stress related index, the 5w is more of a "thick"ness index.
Where did you hear/read that it is not synthetic? I would like to look into this if you could post a link thats not 3rd party hear-say. And what oil analysis?? "LT1" is a broad reference. Do you mean stock with low milage? Increased power is increased heat and heat is stress, no to metion revving above the stock 5600 rpm rev limiter will create stress as well.
I've had great results with with this oil, ie: no metal on the magnetic drain plug, no loss of oil between oil changes, clean burning plugs.
Seriously, if its not synthetic I would like to read this elsewhere, and as far as the 50w index that is more of a heat/stress related index, the 5w is more of a "thick"ness index.
It's very common knowledge that it's not true synthetic, it uses a hydrocracked petroleum "group 3" base oil. They used to be a true synthetic, with a PAO/ester base, up until 1999 or so.
I suggest you check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and visit the message boards there, as there is a lot of info on the latest scoop on oils. I'm one of the administrators on there.
As far as the numbers in 5w50, the 5w part means the oil passes the cold cranking test of less than 6000cp at -30c, while the 50 part means it's viscosity is between 16.3 to 21.9cst at 100c.
07-03-2003, 02:52 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: dallas, tx, usa
Posts: 662
Ahh yes, thats a great board, new to me for sure. I've been reading many posts and learning. I did not know Castrol was LYING or at least misleading in their marketing. However, after alot of reading, and I'm still not done, heres one clip that kinda sums it up:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I think most people on this message board dislike the 5W-50 grade. We have two UOA's of Castrol Syntec 5W-50 that to my untrained eye look very good. One of those UOA's was on a Ford van with a 4.2L V6 that now would use 5W-20 motor oil if it was installed in a 2001 or newer Ford and it still did well. I have seen one UOA of Castrol Syntec 10W-30 that Patman posted and it looked mediocre. At least the 5W-50 grade seems to hold up well. Is the real reson why so maney people hate Castrol Syntec just because Castrol uses a group III oil and not a PAO?
There is no doubt that all else being equal a PAO formulated synthetic oil will be better than a group IV synthetic but it still seems to me that what really counts is the oils performance and not how it's made. I hope I am not beating a dead horse here but who here has really had poor results with Castrol Syntec?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
O.K. I've been changing mine every 3k, not the least bit interested in extending intervals. So I still beleive I'm doing the right thing and my results vs operating conditions have been very satisfactory. But shame on Castrols' marketing and whats worse is the others are now following their lead.
I think most people on this message board dislike the 5W-50 grade. We have two UOA's of Castrol Syntec 5W-50 that to my untrained eye look very good. One of those UOA's was on a Ford van with a 4.2L V6 that now would use 5W-20 motor oil if it was installed in a 2001 or newer Ford and it still did well. I have seen one UOA of Castrol Syntec 10W-30 that Patman posted and it looked mediocre. At least the 5W-50 grade seems to hold up well. Is the real reson why so maney people hate Castrol Syntec just because Castrol uses a group III oil and not a PAO?
There is no doubt that all else being equal a PAO formulated synthetic oil will be better than a group IV synthetic but it still seems to me that what really counts is the oils performance and not how it's made. I hope I am not beating a dead horse here but who here has really had poor results with Castrol Syntec?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
O.K. I've been changing mine every 3k, not the least bit interested in extending intervals. So I still beleive I'm doing the right thing and my results vs operating conditions have been very satisfactory. But shame on Castrols' marketing and whats worse is the others are now following their lead.
07-03-2003, 11:47 PM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Rome, GA
Posts: 69
Originally posted by Robbie Pendergrass
jasonj478, do you buy your shaeffers from Mr. Mackey?
jasonj478, do you buy your shaeffers from Mr. Mackey?
We also use a lot of the Shaeffers Oils at the plant (Fruit of the Loom, Leesburg, AL) I work at, but I'm on night shift so I never see him when he comes down here.
His wife use to baby sit me when I was little but I doubt he would know me now.
07-21-2003, 10:24 PM
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 1,208
Originally posted by quicksilver97ta
Where did you hear/read that it is not synthetic? I would like to look into this if you could post a link thats not 3rd party hear-say. And what oil analysis?? "LT1" is a broad reference. Do you mean stock with low milage? Increased power is increased heat and heat is stress, no to metion revving above the stock 5600 rpm rev limiter will create stress as well.
I've had great results with with this oil, ie: no metal on the magnetic drain plug, no loss of oil between oil changes, clean burning plugs.
Seriously, if its not synthetic I would like to read this elsewhere, and as far as the 50w index that is more of a heat/stress related index, the 5w is more of a "thick"ness index.
Where did you hear/read that it is not synthetic? I would like to look into this if you could post a link thats not 3rd party hear-say. And what oil analysis?? "LT1" is a broad reference. Do you mean stock with low milage? Increased power is increased heat and heat is stress, no to metion revving above the stock 5600 rpm rev limiter will create stress as well.
I've had great results with with this oil, ie: no metal on the magnetic drain plug, no loss of oil between oil changes, clean burning plugs.
Seriously, if its not synthetic I would like to read this elsewhere, and as far as the 50w index that is more of a heat/stress related index, the 5w is more of a "thick"ness index.
Good call on the 50w vs 5w thats how I've always understood it as well however, I don't know one car that has a 5600 rev limiter on it...Mine doesn't and it's stock except the exhuast and none of my friends did either...reving any engine is going to be harder on them then shifting or reving to 3000...3500>3000 for wear etc...6000rpm is pretty common on LT1s and never seen any durability problems reving to 6000...
Back to the oil...I would like to get royal purple but there's only a few places in OKC that have it and they're at min 20 miles from my house...I don't know that I'm going to drive 20 miles for something like that...I'm leaning towards mobile 1 but would like to know whether or not its a true synthetic after what I read in this post.
I too would also like to know where people have read Mobile 1 isn't real synthetic...everything I've read says it is...I don't want to go to a message board where guys gossip that its not real synthetic...I want PROOF...