new2chevy

So what the heck is the best optispark? The Dynaspark?

I hear the stockers go out fairly often and cause stumbling but not sure if the vented units have these problems.

And if the optispark is so good, why did GM switch to the coil per cylinder ignition for the LS1?

I still like the idea of the LTCC. Seems like a better, more powerful, and more reliable ignition system. Plus, I worked many hours making custom brackets for my coils to mount over the polished perimeter bolt (aftermarket perimeter setup) valve covers I bought. Not to mention, I have a brand new LTCC box sitting in my basement.

Why NOT use it? Any good reasons?

ny_z28man

Lasted for 2 years then I sold the car. Much less vibration over my friends camaro with the poly mount.

96capricemgr

If you already have the LTCC and work into pretty mounting then use it, but the stock vented opti setup is good despite what the internet tells you.

I am not saying an opti is better than coil per plug, just saying that this belief that you have to go coil per plug to be reliable is complete bull.
Far as why GM did the coil per plug, for them .01mpg matters, for them 100K mile tuneup interval matters, for them a miniscule smoothing of idle matters, and for them a tiny improvement in emissions matters.

Far as needing a T56 they just break other things the stock axle can survive a lot more power behind the automatic than it can the T56, a clutch is more like an on/off switch and shocks the drivetrain a lot more.

The 4L60E can be a great tranny if built well. Problem is there are a lot more shops claiming to be able to build it than shops that actually can. Many of them list lots of parts they "upgrade" which is often a sign of a bad build unless the build is very high end. At say the 400rwhp level,l stock servos, stock input, stock sunshell, stock planetaires etc are all good, even some of the clutches in my almost 9yo tranny are still stock.

new2chevy

I hear that Dana at ProBuilt is awesome for automatics.

I do kind of like having an automatic. I just want it to run right and feel "light" rather than like something is holding it back on the highway when it's past 60 mph.

I plan do do at least 373's with my head and cam swap or my 383 swap.

we shall see.

pgerst

Dynaspark has mixed mostly good reputation. Older units are good, company was sold and the new owners took some time getting things going again. The dynaspark has better bearings and is sealed much better and has, in theory, no path for oil or water to get in the high energy parts and turn into an experiment attempting to create primordial life. Negative is aftermarket sensors though it does have a lifetime warranty so the only cost when it does fail is the removal time.

I run the dynaspark (had a bearing fail and was replaced free of charge); one of these days I am thinking of buying a new ACDelco opti and making the best of both worlds by taking the sensors from the ACDelco.

new2chevy

Got my third gen driveshaft installed with the new Spicers. Whether or not the driveshaft/u-joints was the cause of the vibration, I know it needed new U-joints since the old ones looked like they had never been replaced.

So, heck with it.

Now I have to reinstall the torque arm because I had to pull the darn thing off the diff housing to be able to fit a C-clamp onto the U joint to be able to snap a C-clip on one of the U joints. Grrr.

Looks like I now have to undo the tail housing end of the torque arm to line up the torque arm holes on the diff housing. They won't line up again, as it sits now.

I'll get it done sometime today, between calls. I am a tow truck driver.

At least, I get to use the shop at the tow yard

96capricemgr

I have never needed to put new u-joints in my car but in my experience with my older truck once you replace them the first time you will replace them periodically because even if you buy good replacements they are not lubed,sealed or aligned as well as the factory did it.

Dana at ProBuilt is who did my tranny.

new2chevy

And does your tranny live up to the ProBuilt expectations?

Also, it seems my 95 has a factory coil over front suspension. So when I order springs they will be the coil over type automatically, correct?

And what are your cam specs with those Advanced Induction 200's? Sub 12 is a nice time for that Caprice of yours.

Thanks!

new2chevy

hey guys

My 4L60e sometimes doesn't downshift when in "D" and when I stomp the gas when I am going about 25-40 mph. I hate that.

Is this fixable through tuning the PCM and shift points and stuff?

It downshifts and gets going very nicely when below 25 mph and stomping the gas pedal.

Hopefully this can be addressed with tuning software and a laptop.

Injuneer

Yes, the 4th Gen stock front suspension is unequal upper/lower A-arms with the spring and shock in a "coil-over" configuration. Any front spring for a 4th Gen F-Body will support this configuration.

You need to add a "signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, trans and any major mods. I realized you included this info in your first post, but that's 3 pages back and not convenient to get to. For example, if you had a 93 the answer to your trans downshift question would be significantly different from other years. The basic info helps us help you.

Probably a good idea to post each question individually on the correct tech forum.... e.g. put the trans question on "Drivetrain". We have a couple trans builders on that forum that help out from time to time.

new2chevy

Hey thanks for your reply.

I'll post my question on another board, and I'll add information to my signature.

I just ordered the TunerCat stuff for my car

new2chevy

Tightened up the plugs that were loose, took off the AIR pump and tubes/hoses, and relocated the intake air temp sensor to BEFORE the MAF.

Next I will take off the EGR. Got my tunercat stuff and will soon load my new tune and see what happens.

Also, I put on Founders LCA's today. Nice change

Also, I changed my gear oil to Lucas brand, and it said "does not require additive." WRONG

My diff was making horrible noises. I added some BG additive.....NO MORE NOISES from the diff

new2chevy

Hey guys. I got the TunerCat and Datamaster software, and I've been tuning this sucker for the past two weeks and also fixing what needs fixed. Here is what I've done:

Replaced BAD MAP sensor. The nipple was stuck in the intake, and someone siliconed the top part of the MAF over top of the nipple and onto the intake. Doh!! The engine PCM was pulling 12 degrees of timing at WOT. No wonder she felt sluggish!





Another thing I fixed: Two bad O2 sensors that didn't even match (pic below). Replaced them with two brand new, matching Densos The driver's side was running leaner than the passenger side. This should fix that problem.



Replaced the old LCA's with Founders pivot ball/poly end LCA's

Out with the old



In with the new


Snipped out the low oil level sensor plug because the stupid light was on all the time, and my oil WAS NOT and IS NOT low. I twisted the ends of the harness wires together, and that light no longer comes on

I also installed the LT4 knock module in the PCM.

The car runs WAY BETTER now!! I have not datalogged it yet, since I replaced all the sensors and the knock module with the LT4 module. I'm betting there is little to no timing being pulled at WOT anymore.

I'm going to keep power tuning this sucker, until I squeeze every bit of power out of it that I can.

I have also removed the smog pump and air tubes and the EVAP solenoid and capped off the vent line and used a vented gas gap.

Mods to come:
LTCC ignition with custom coil brackets (see pic below) that I made and VERY tall polished valve covers. I just have to figure out the alternator situation. I may just go with a relocation kit from SpeedInc, or I may go with a Ford 150 amp shorter alternator that will need custom brackets to fit onto the LT1 bracket. Not sure which way I'll go yet. I do not think grinding the back of the alternator will work for the valve covers I am using. I may try the "grind mod" on my spare alternator first, as this is the cheapest route to go, for sure.



Also coming is an adjustable panhard rod, subframe connectors, braided fuel line kit that will run right to the back of the fuel rails (to get the fuel lines out of the engine bay), Pacesetter longtubes and y-pipe, Koni single adjustable shocks all around, short torque arm kit, C5 Vette deep dish wheels, 9" 3.89 rear, Flowmaster muffler (I love Flowmaster, no matter what anyone says or thinks) and some other goodies I will post up here when the time comes.

I have an all forged 383 LT1 being built, as we speak, with LE intake and LE2 55cc/205cc runner heads and 244/254 .608 .608 110 cam

12.4:1 compression and around 500-550 FWHP

Matts97camaro

[QUOTE=new2chevy;6917701]So what the heck is the best optispark? The Dynaspark?

I hear the stockers go out fairly often and cause stumbling but not sure if the vented units have these problems.


The best optispark built is AC Delco which is now Delphi in my opinion. I just replaced mine about 4k ago with a new Delphi. It run great.
The original only lasted 130K . I have heard of several cars going 170-180k on the original Optispark. 1992-94 are non vented optis.

new2chevy

I am going to use my 97 "gutted" optispark along with my LTCC stuff.

I cut the rotor down to just that disc part and fastened it onto the cam position sensor part, and then I sealed the opti with silicone before putting it back together. This should work well for me.

One day I will swap my new 383 into my car. That will be sweet

[QUOTE=Matts97camaro;6921252]