scoobysnax83

I think she meant to put an "if" at the beginning. I don't think she's psychic. Although it would help with engine diagnosing.

grygst76

From my experience with blowing motors, you have one or more main bearings toasted; what happened was as evidence in your filter and the pics of the burnt rockers and pushrods is there was serious oil starvation meaning your oil pump needs replacing as well. You are better off with a complete rebuild because some passages are more then likely stuffed with shavings and the block will have to be dipped. It might be cheaper to buy a junkyard motor and rebuild the one you have with a complete disassembly. If you do not want to go that route and believe me when I say this dump about 2 quarts of kerosene in the motor and run it for about 2-5 minutes and immediately shut it down and drain the oil; repeat this twice and it should get 80-95% of the chips caught in your oil filter. I had to do this 2 times already and it saved my wallet. Also when the mechanic or yourself goes to replace the bearings; it should be pretty clean in there so you can see if there is other damage as well. Besides; that motor has serious oil burn and it will clean it out a little.

Dave88LX

Damn I've never heard of that before...Kerosene?

With the sound of that knocking though, and oil starvation, might it be possible my lifters have gone south and need replacing? Maybe clogged with particles?

Also, if I'm going to tear it apart anyways, would it be wiser NOT to flush it w/ kerosene like you said, that way I can see what got torn up where and where it's deposited? Just a thought

Thanks for the suggestion!

grygst76

You could soak the lifters in oil and check to make sure the roller still rolls freely in the lifter the kerosene trick works if you want to clean everything up before you take it apart; you could do it or not--I suggest you do so you can inspect everything while it is clean and not gunked with burnt oil.

Dave88LX

Actually it *just dawned on me*, I've already got the intake/lifters/pushrods/valve covers off...REALLY don't want to put that all back on to clean it out...a hot tanking would do the same thing right? I know this way is a lot cheaper...but a hot tank would do the same?

grygst76

A hot tank will do the same thing. Make sure they magnaflux the block to check for any cracks that MIGHT have happened (1-5% chance) and have the heads cleaned (do it yourself). Just make sure you thoroughly clean everything before reassembly and you will be golden

bigsteve7

I dont have much internal engine expertise so this is just an observation...

I just want to say that wow, this is the most interactive and helpful thread Ive ever seen on the board. Everything from movies to with sound, to step by step pictures to help analyze the problem and get it fixed. I'd just like to give all of you guys applause.

Good job guys. And Dave I hope the car gets back in shape soon with out taking too big a chunk out of your wallet.

Dave88LX

Amen to that Steve! I'd like to thank all of you for helping me along so far too. I will continue to make this as informative as I can to help out anyone else that may have the same problems.

Shoebox: One hell of a page you have there. If you want any of the pics I've taken for your page there feel free man. That video is good too, it'll be a perfect example of a "whatever is wrong with my car" LOL

I'll be tearing some more stuff off tonight after work.

Not looking forward to dropping the tranny though, I just put a new clutch in about 600 miles ago

Dave88LX

Just for ****s and giggles, I called up the dealer and asked them what I was looking at.

~$1500 LABOR for Remove/Replace the engine on this car.

$5932.74 + $325 core for the engine, does not include starter/hramonic balancer/water pump and something else.

For that price one would be better off buying a stout built block from a reputable company!

Just thought I'd throw that info out. No way I'm going that route though.

It's nice to be able to work on cars, look how much money we save!!!!!!!!!

Dave88LX

Holy crap, it's 9pm already?!?

Night 2 begins! GOt some more tubes disconnected...fan out...working on the radiator...need some more rags and kitty litter though

Dave88LX

Radiator = big PITA

Freakin AC lines!

Vader

I have listened to that clip a few times. I think you have a rod bearing that has opened up enough that the piston is striking the head. There is a hollow sound to it that tells me a piston skirt is getting hammered. Don't run it anymore, pull it apart. If you are lucky the crank can be turned under. If not, it will have to be spray welded or replaced.
My guess from a thousand miles away anyhow.
Let us know what you find.

JordonMusser

just pick up a used short block. they go for <500. hell I sold a complete motor for 750 a month ago.

Dave88LX

Called every JY and repair shop and machine shop and used parts place around, only one place might have one, for $1500!

Had a semi-productive night. Post more pics when I have more energy as well.

I learned a valuable lesson. Don't bother cleaning up anti freeze until you're all done. Wasting time. If you have the front end up, let it down, jack up the back end, sit on the front end, get as much out as you can, THEN clean up the mess. I must have cleaned up that puddle 4 times tonight :livid:

Sometimes it didn't exactly spill onto the floor either Yeah, it sucked mejor *****.

Got the fans out:



After some fighting, the radiator is out. PITA, because the AC sits on TOP of grooves in the radiator, along with an AC line. General pain in the *** kinda.



Some of the hoses removed, still got a few left:


All the hoses off the front, along with the coil, and some thing that I don't know what it was or did:


That is all. My picture monkey was active, but is going to bed now. More later if I'm not too lazy.

Dave88LX

How much does a replacement water pump go for?
What's that optispark conversion go for? What's it do?


I just got back from the Machine shop.
Here's the machining prices:
Torque Plate Bore/Hone ............................$100
Line Bore if wanted ...................................$125
Install Cam Bearings .................................$25
Clean & Check Rods ..................................$25 all
Resize Rod ................................................$1 0 ea.
Hot Tank / Magnaflux Block .......................$35
Grind Crank ...............................................$65
Polish Crank ..............................................$25
3* "multi-angle?" Valve Job .................... ..$75
Assemble Shortblock w/ 3 mos warranty ..$125
Assemble Longblock w/ 1 yr warranty ..... .$225
--(Includes headwork, new guides, paint block, valvejob etc.)
Forged rebuild kit ......................................$550

Estimated assembled longblock rebuild pan to intake...$1200

So, that's not bad at all IMO. He said that of course we'll have a better idea of what will need to be replaced when it's torn down. They'll check everything over etc. as well.

Now I'm starting to think "Well, since it's apart...roller rockers aren't *THAT* much" :idunno: LOL, I need to stop!