NASTY sound...like marbles in the intake, TAKE A LISTEN, Help please!
#62
Originally posted by shoebox
Good to see that you are protecting the engine from foreign objects (intake passages plugged on the heads). Just struck me as kinda funny. I guess there were no metal particles in that part.
Good to see that you are protecting the engine from foreign objects (intake passages plugged on the heads). Just struck me as kinda funny. I guess there were no metal particles in that part.
However, I have a slight feeling that you may be mocking me
#63
Originally posted by Dave88LX
...and some thing that I don't know what it was or did:
...and some thing that I don't know what it was or did:
-Chris
#64
Originally posted by Chrisbequick
It's probably the AIR pump. Was a black plastic thingy bolted to the front driver's side of the block with hoses connected to it?
-Chris
It's probably the AIR pump. Was a black plastic thingy bolted to the front driver's side of the block with hoses connected to it?
-Chris
This car is a plumbing nightmare!
I hope when it's time to go back togother someone here can help if I need reference I'm labeling the best I can, and taking pics, we'll see.
#66
Can't beat a webcam when you need help. Kudos for an excellent idea to help get your problem resolved. Just as a side bar from the typical bearing diagnosis you might take a look at the oil pump drive shaft but ,normally, when they fail you see no oil pressure on the gauge.
Just wanted to give you something else to take apart
Just wanted to give you something else to take apart
#67
Yeah it was pretty cool thanks My majority of the posting is done on corral.net, had a buncha those guys watching. I think I had like 12 the most at one time, and probably 40 people added me to their list LOL. Main reason I set it up is because I usually run into troubles and flip out and break ****.
Surprisingly this car has been a PITA to take apart because it's like a puzzle, but in all honesty it's coming along pretty smoothly.
I got that tranny/clutch/flywheel, and the exhaust out last night like I said, so it's mainly now just pulling the rest of the wires off.
I need to figure out how much crap needs to come off the front of the engine in order to squeeze it out. Also, whether or not it can come out w/ the exhaust manifolds on still (I'm coming out the top). I'm going to replace my wire looms with some other color while I'm at it, give it a little sprucing up, and give the engine bay a deep cleaning and polishing.
Time to do a search on engine removal ou the top
Surprisingly this car has been a PITA to take apart because it's like a puzzle, but in all honesty it's coming along pretty smoothly.
I got that tranny/clutch/flywheel, and the exhaust out last night like I said, so it's mainly now just pulling the rest of the wires off.
I need to figure out how much crap needs to come off the front of the engine in order to squeeze it out. Also, whether or not it can come out w/ the exhaust manifolds on still (I'm coming out the top). I'm going to replace my wire looms with some other color while I'm at it, give it a little sprucing up, and give the engine bay a deep cleaning and polishing.
Time to do a search on engine removal ou the top
#68
Never done it from the top but from the pics I've seen I believe that just about everything has to come off (intake, heads, manifolds). I did everything from the bottom and managed to put the engine in with the long tubes, tranny, wiring harness, everything on it. It took all of about 30 minutes to get it bolted in and from there it was just a matter of hooking all the external stuff up. I had a buddy that pulled his out the top and I know that the front jackstands had to be at full height and he let most of the air out of the rear tires to get it a little more verticle.
#69
Well, the little sonofabitch is ready to come out as of Wednesday night. Thanks to all my supporters on the Garage Cam! The biggest PITA last night was the damn accessory bracket. One of the P/S lines ran over the TOP of it, made it a bitch to get out. That, and I forgot to take a bolt out :wtf: Still had to wrestle it out after that. Tranny's out, clutch is out, exhaust is out, water pump out, every accessory on the front is off, the P/S and AC are hangin' off to the side though.
She's ready to pull, just need a cherry picker. I'm pretty sure it'll come out w/ the manifolds still on. God those things are UGLY! I finally saw my 8th spark plug too!
I ended up breaking a couple brittle connectors, have to look into replacing them.
Looks like a TOTALLY DIFFERENT engine!!!!!!
First off, here's the Cam. Thanks for the "condolences" while I was working LOL.
Here she is, ready to pull!!! (I think)
Check out the difference from the beginning!
Machined Flywheel w/ about 800 easy miles on it:
Stupidass huge retarded drivers-side cat. At least they made the flange large enough to easily get at it from the bottom. I had a PITA getting to a couple on my stock H-pipe on my 88LX. Much easier w/o cats on that car.
Dealer did a kick-*** job of putting my exhaust back togother. THis was AFTER I brought it back because it was leaking.
Where the 2 sides meet at the Y. The Y is a PITA to drop, I had to unbolt...er..snap the drivers side pipe bolts and drop the 2 togother.
Beautiful Exhaust pipes w/ the bigarse ugly cats:
Drivers side header...er..."manifold" flange. LOoks retarded, but it makes it a helluva lot easier to unbolt. THey were all a straight shot w/ an extension:
Pile of parts on the floor, I'm running out of room!!!
Talk about the king of nightmares when it comes to spark plug wires. Try having to route the boots and wires through there with everything bolted up!!! Stupid engineers. I bet it looked great on paper.
She's ready to pull, just need a cherry picker. I'm pretty sure it'll come out w/ the manifolds still on. God those things are UGLY! I finally saw my 8th spark plug too!
I ended up breaking a couple brittle connectors, have to look into replacing them.
Looks like a TOTALLY DIFFERENT engine!!!!!!
First off, here's the Cam. Thanks for the "condolences" while I was working LOL.
Here she is, ready to pull!!! (I think)
Check out the difference from the beginning!
Machined Flywheel w/ about 800 easy miles on it:
Stupidass huge retarded drivers-side cat. At least they made the flange large enough to easily get at it from the bottom. I had a PITA getting to a couple on my stock H-pipe on my 88LX. Much easier w/o cats on that car.
Dealer did a kick-*** job of putting my exhaust back togother. THis was AFTER I brought it back because it was leaking.
Where the 2 sides meet at the Y. The Y is a PITA to drop, I had to unbolt...er..snap the drivers side pipe bolts and drop the 2 togother.
Beautiful Exhaust pipes w/ the bigarse ugly cats:
Drivers side header...er..."manifold" flange. LOoks retarded, but it makes it a helluva lot easier to unbolt. THey were all a straight shot w/ an extension:
Pile of parts on the floor, I'm running out of room!!!
Talk about the king of nightmares when it comes to spark plug wires. Try having to route the boots and wires through there with everything bolted up!!! Stupid engineers. I bet it looked great on paper.
Last edited by Dave88LX; 04-10-2003 at 11:02 PM.
#70
Re: NASTY sound...like marbles in the intake, TAKE A LISTEN, Help please!
Originally posted by Dave88LX
This started on the way home today. My oil PSI was around ~20, and it' usually ~40-45 at idle. My oil level wasn't even on the dipstick for some reason, yet I don't have an oil leak, and I don't see smoke out the exhaust.
I drained the oil, not much came out of course, and put some fresh oil in, and it's still clacking. It makes the sound of like marbles bouncing around inside the intake.
Can anyone make an educated guess as to what it is?
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/clack2.mpg
Some people are saying to pop off the valve covers.
1. Can that be done w/o dropping the engine? It's CRAMMED! (I'm a Mustang guy at heart LOL )
2. What do I look for if I get them off?
Thanks for your help
This started on the way home today. My oil PSI was around ~20, and it' usually ~40-45 at idle. My oil level wasn't even on the dipstick for some reason, yet I don't have an oil leak, and I don't see smoke out the exhaust.
I drained the oil, not much came out of course, and put some fresh oil in, and it's still clacking. It makes the sound of like marbles bouncing around inside the intake.
Can anyone make an educated guess as to what it is?
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/clack2.mpg
Some people are saying to pop off the valve covers.
1. Can that be done w/o dropping the engine? It's CRAMMED! (I'm a Mustang guy at heart LOL )
2. What do I look for if I get them off?
Thanks for your help
http://www.clanulf.com/tazcar/public/bearings2.JPG
#71
Originally posted by Dave88LX
SO its probably a rod bearing? or a main bearing...
What entails fixing this problem? How in the hell does the engines come out of these things anyways?
Heh, like I said, I'm Mustang Man, but picked this up on a good deal, for a daily driver. I honestly don't know much about them, except I've gotten it to go 13.9 @ 100 MPH
I know the engine comes out the bottom, how freakin' high do you have to get the car to do that?!?
I'm assuming I need a total rebuild
Any clue what that would cost? How much machine work is involved?
I've got 2 other mustang projects going on, so I want to spend the least possible and just DRIVE this car...
Thanks for any advice
SO its probably a rod bearing? or a main bearing...
What entails fixing this problem? How in the hell does the engines come out of these things anyways?
Heh, like I said, I'm Mustang Man, but picked this up on a good deal, for a daily driver. I honestly don't know much about them, except I've gotten it to go 13.9 @ 100 MPH
I know the engine comes out the bottom, how freakin' high do you have to get the car to do that?!?
I'm assuming I need a total rebuild
Any clue what that would cost? How much machine work is involved?
I've got 2 other mustang projects going on, so I want to spend the least possible and just DRIVE this car...
Thanks for any advice
by the way, with all that metal flowing thru the oil, im pretty sure it has damaged anything it has come in contact with. I know my engine was totally wasted after the bearing were spun. had to get new EVERYTHING!!!!! So i opted to build a monster 383. The only thing that I am using is the BLOCK ! everything else is new and might I add EXPENSIVE! over $7000 in parts already and I havent bought the fuel injectors, or oil pan yet, or throttle body.
Good luck
Last edited by TriPinTaZ; 04-10-2003 at 11:58 PM.
#72
O'Reilly's had the Cherry Picker for $229, on sale for $199, and the Stand was $49.99 on sale for $39.99; +8.25% Tax @tax
I would have gotten a load leveler, however, 1. It is out of stock, and 2. I don't have but $20 til payday :stickhit:
Ah well, finally got one. I hope I can scrounge up enough change to go buy some bolts!
If it wasn't on sale I'd have gotten a 13% Military Discount is what it seems to be...on sale and w/ the discount came out the same Oh well.
I can't afford this right now, but I need it, so I must have it. **** I hate being broke!
#73
Originally posted by Dave88LX
[B
I would have gotten a load leveler, however, 1. It is out of stock, and 2. I don't have but $20 til payday :stickhit:
[/B]
[B
I would have gotten a load leveler, however, 1. It is out of stock, and 2. I don't have but $20 til payday :stickhit:
[/B]
#75
Originally posted by Dave88LX
I just got back from the Machine shop.
Here's the machining prices:
Torque Plate Bore/Hone ............................$100
Line Bore if wanted ...................................$125
Install Cam Bearings .................................$25
Clean & Check Rods ..................................$25 all
Resize Rod ................................................$1 0 ea.
Hot Tank / Magnaflux Block .......................$35
Grind Crank ...............................................$65
Polish Crank ..............................................$25
3* "multi-angle?" Valve Job .................... ..$75
Assemble Shortblock w/ 3 mos warranty ..$125
Assemble Longblock w/ 1 yr warranty ..... .$225
--(Includes headwork, new guides, paint block, valvejob etc.)
Forged rebuild kit ......................................$550
Estimated assembled longblock rebuild pan to intake...$1200
I just got back from the Machine shop.
Here's the machining prices:
Torque Plate Bore/Hone ............................$100
Line Bore if wanted ...................................$125
Install Cam Bearings .................................$25
Clean & Check Rods ..................................$25 all
Resize Rod ................................................$1 0 ea.
Hot Tank / Magnaflux Block .......................$35
Grind Crank ...............................................$65
Polish Crank ..............................................$25
3* "multi-angle?" Valve Job .................... ..$75
Assemble Shortblock w/ 3 mos warranty ..$125
Assemble Longblock w/ 1 yr warranty ..... .$225
--(Includes headwork, new guides, paint block, valvejob etc.)
Forged rebuild kit ......................................$550
Estimated assembled longblock rebuild pan to intake...$1200