Was doing some work on the car this weekend and long story short, through the process of jacking it up and down and moving stands and probably kicking things with my feet as I worked, I managed to crush one of the fuel lines.

Basically I was setting the car down on some stands and one of the lines got pinched between the car body and a tire. Crushed it pretty flat for a small section a little shorter than 1". I believe it is the return line or the EVAP line but I'm still trying to verify that looking at a bunch of diagrams. I'll post up a picture when I can get one later.

I was thinking the easiest fix would be to cut out that section, and splice in some sort of similar steel pipe.

Just wondering what size these lines are and what types of parts I'll need to Frankenstein this back together.

Thanks!

 

I just checked my evap line for leaks yesterday by disconnecting the purge line on the canister(courtesy Shoebox's site)and plugged it with a plug and put my mighty vac on the line above the engine drivers side where it has a rubber connector going to the back of car and it held vacuum during the 10 minutes or so till I pulled the plug at the canister end.If that was the line you mentioned and it is leaking I would think a small rubber gas hose and a couple of clamps might work after cutting out the bad piece.If it is a gas line,do you smell gas?Maybe the same fix with a small gas hose.Hope this helps.

 

It's pretty much crushed. I don't smell anything right now but there's no way anything is getting past that section of crushed line. I'm pretty sure it is the EVAP but I can't seem to find a single diagram that outlines what the four lines running under the body are. I'm going to trace it back to see where it heads. If it is the EVAP, I'm just going to completely remove it and do an EVAP delete. It's a classic now anyways so emissions is not an issue.

 

I found an image of the underside showing the lines. The line i crushed is the closest to the camera with the ribbed lining around it. I'm almost positive that is the EVAP line. Am I correct there?

 

I have to check a couple of my photos when I get to my PC, but I think the line with the coil around it is the rear brake line. In that photo, someone has removed the three fuel related plastic (nylon) lines, replaced the fuel supply and returns with braided SS w/ compression fittings, and did not replace the EVAP purge line. EVAP would connect to the short rubber hose w/ the small spring clamp on it.

If it is the brake line, entire line needs to be replaced.

 

Yes, that is the rear brake line, starts at the ABS motor pack, and runs to the rear of the car where it connects to the flex hose that connects it to the T block on top of the differential. Picture is my Formula (ignore extra braided SS line and wire loom - that is for nitrous). In the attached diagrams (94, but 95 is the same) it is part # 36:

 

Dang it. That is not the answer I was hoping for. But I appreciate the answer.

Do you happen to know that part #?

Looks like this may be it:
93-97 Camaro SS Z28 Firebird Trans Am Rear Brake Line Lines Rear Axle w/o ASR | eBay

Or do you if there is an option to just go with steel braided lines for this section? I'm in the middle of an LS1 brake upgrade anyways so.. whats a few more bucks I guess

 

The eBay link is for the brake lines that sit on top of the rear axle. Not the one from the ABS motor to the rear axle.

If you check a discount GM parts dealer or Rock Auto, they probably use the GM diagram that I linked, label the parts, and list the specific parts to indicate whether they are available, offered by GM or by aftermarket, etc.

Or maybe a local shop can bend one for you. The diagram I linked shows the fittings required for both ends, the diameter of the tubing and the length of the tube. If you took the old one to a shop, they could probably match it.

 

the diagram is calling out 6mm tubing which I'm not having an easy time finding. I've read that this tube is about 1/4". That is about 0.014" difference. Would that be interchangeable?

I'm thinking I'll buy a 20' run and give it a shot myself. If I can't do it, I'll grab another one and take it to the shop. I imagine I'll need to tow it to a shop. I'm in the middle of an LS1 brake swap and I imagine I'll run into some brake bleeding options with this crushed tube.

 

I personally wouldn't use anything other than the specified tubing, but that's just my "engineering" mentality. Surprised you can't find it. I would think GM used 6mm tubing in a lot of different vehicles. This source claims "used to fabricate 6mm GM ..... brake lines."

Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Line Tubing Coil, 6mm x 25' - AGS Company AGS Company

Note "Find A Store" button.

 

GM never sold pre-bent lines even when the cars were new, so buying a length of line and putting on the correct flares and fittings to patch a section is about all you can do.

 

Thanks. I saw this item in a few places but for some reason I thought the line was supposed to be stainless steel. The black tubing caught me off guard I guess. It's been years since I dove into this thing like I am now. (What a welcome back..)




This is something I've gotten a lot of back and forth information on. Generally I've found the following:

1. Don't use Compression fittings. Got it. I agree.
2. Most people say you need to replace the whole line.
3. Some people say you can cut out the section of line and put in a new straight section. The rule being to make sure the ends are double flared.

I assume part of the resistance to go with #3 comes from the addition of a possible failure location. Which is a valid concern but theoretically it's likelihood of failure is equal to the fittings at either end if done the same. The other argument would be, it's an old line. Why not just replace the whole thing.

I've also read that there is legality issues there but running through the PennDOT inspection manual I don't see any mention of it other than this:

(v) The connecting hoses are improperly joined; for example, a splice made by sliding the hose ends over a piece of tubing and clamping the hose to the tube.

 

The "black" is plastic coating, used to resist corrosion.