Mystic97Z

alright, here's pic i just took, engine -right side up- so i just flipped the pic...
green line represents where the windage trey needs to go, bolts to the oil pump on the very left, and then also to the main studs....
i circled in yellow where the problem is...i didn't turn the crank at all, but the rods actually go about another 1/2 further, so its gonna tear right through the trey....seems line my main studs should have been longer...
everything is ARP.
lt1 block, bored 40 over, scat crank, eagle 6" h beam rods. studded mains.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/12089N96hP/446493.jpg

1racerdude

Get ya some steel tubing of the size that the tray bolts will fit and will fit the boss on the studs. Cut so the tray just barely clears and get some longer bolts. Grade 8 if you can find them,thats what the ARP's are.Then try the pan and pickup should be no more than 1/2" of of bottom of pan,checked with a ball of kids modeling clay. Heat and bend pickup if ya have to.Don't try to do it cold,it will kink or ya might break something.

NOMAD

I opted to not use the windage tray on mine. With the ARP stud kit, you just don't have enough length.

-Shannon

Mystic97Z

did u have the same problem nomad?

93black-ta

i had a clearance problem with mine too. i just pounded on the tray until my rods cleared pic

markinkc69z

You need #234-5606. The studs are longer for the 400 stroke, 3.75.

12SCNDZ

I used Moroso studs on mine. They work great with plenty of clearance for my Moroso windage tray on my 355

Frank