RPWS6

Well guys, I have had a bad night!! I have finally calmed down and am thinking rationally now......... Breath, Breath!! Aaahhhhh!! Here we go--

I am installing an Le2 upgrade currently on my 96-TA-WS6-M6(73k miles), while installing the cam tonight I had a cam retaining brkt bolt break on me. When I tried to remove it with a easy out,the east out broke. After trying to remove it with 8 new drill bits, and a lot of drilling and hammering I have come to the conclusion that the only option is to have a machine shop drill it out and retap it before I screw up the block(the hole already looks like the bolt/easyout have melted to the threads and become one.).
I have alot of questions so I appreciate any info that you can provide, thanks to all for you help!

So here are my questions:
Is there any solution to remove this mess in the threads while the block is still in the vehicle? I have tried bolt cobalt and titanim bits?

If it does come out, do you think the repair should be easy? Costly, any idea on price?

While I have the block at the machine shop, what do you recommend to have done, at a minimum, new cam bearings?? Any freshening with 73k? I plan a 355 in the future, but I currently have over $4000 in to this LE2 proj with all supporting Mods and have no $$ for 355's or 383's right now.

What can I do to freshen up the block cheaply? Are the stock LT1 pistons, rods, crank any good in 1996? Does anyone have any details on these? What if I wanted to run a 125 NOS kit, what would be a cheap, reliable build that is strong? Should I get new pistons?

Is there any upgrade on the oil pumping sytems needed?

When removing the block(it currently has no heads installed) are there any tricks with the motor mounts, should I just remove to middle pin that holds the upper and lower mounts together? It looks like there is 6 trans bolts? Is this it, the trans bolts and the 2 motor mounts?

And last, BTW, my clutch is smoked!! While the block is out, how hard is it to change the clutch, or at least the clutch disc? What are my options with installing this from the front engine compartment?

Thanks again guys for all your help!

Randy

Wild1

A lot of questions.... wow!

1) The bolt - sounds like you did everything you could. PB BLAST works great on loosening bolts. I like to spray it on and drench it a few times over a day or two, then the bolts come out. However, it sounds like you went in deep already. You may not have the PB BLAST option.

2) There is a hole shop out here in California that charges about $75 per hole depending on how bad it is. Typically, they weld a piece of rod to the busted bolt and get it out after soaking the bolt in PB BLAST.

3) If the block is out, now is the time to do the mods. Unfortunately, it isn't in your budget. Do you have enough for the shop to Zero-Deck the block? Reuse the pistons and have them hone the block for good ring seal. Polish the crank and chamfer the holes if you've got the money.

4) Hypereutechtic (stock) pistons can handle 100 N2O shots and 125 N2O on a wet system... maybe more or less depending on the condition.

5) Oil System - Melling has a high volume oil pump. You can have the shop tack weld the pick up tube to the pump.

6) Motor mounts, pull the pin. The trans bolts... don't forget the two on the top... somewhat tough to get to without extensions and universal joints.

7) Clutch. Should be easy once you separate the block from the housing. You may need to resurface the flywheel. When you get the engine back, put the flywheel back on using a star-pattern and don't torque it to max on the first pass. Then use a clutch alignment tool to recenter the clutch. You may want to consider a new pilot bearing while your at it.