caci

UPDATE

Broke down and bought a cable (cringed at almost $18 shipping - bubble wrap envelope, run over by truck, torn envelope), immediately connected to EEFlash/FlashHack.
Sent file to Shaun (TubbyFormy), informed me that I have a "cartooooon" tune.
He referred me to Strong Speedworks, Brandon had me data-log with EEHack (doesn't do SCAN9495) then, sent me a tune.
He said I should notice an immediate difference and I did - mid-range and upper RPM much better. Also, revved much smoother/faster in neutral (6spd).
Also, easily hit the rev limiter in 2nd, without straining to get there (I normally don't make that a habit, but with the inaccurate tach and confirmation that my limiter is set to 6200rpm...)
I was directed to buy a WB O2, in order to tune WOT. Permanently installed in my "test tube' (reluctantly removed the cat in search of that Intake/Exhaust obstruction).
Although we never spoke on the phone (FB Messenger & email), I think Brandon probably sprained his arm, patting himself on the back - "Damn! Right on the money! lol I've only done that a handful of times. Rarely happens" (referring to WOT air/fuel ratio)
He then sent a revised tune file ("tweaks, no change to WOT).
I flashed that a couple of days later and it seems to run even better. Feels like old motor did, back in Sept, last year.
This happened Aug 1-6th, when it was "just' high 90's to 100 degrees.

I'm calling budget, Jasper long block good. Glad to not have to test valve springs or degree cam, in-car.


I did experience 2 stalls, at low speed and idle, the day installed the wideband.
1. On the way home from my mechanic's, I stopped by my store and was there about 30 minutes. Leaving, started the car, pulled out on the Blvd to make a U-turn - it stumbled & died. Tried to re-start, would just barely run (like below 500 on tach). Tried this several times, finally was able to limp across street. Checked the Opti plug (wire repair from last years resurrection), no go.
Waited about 5 minutes (miserable- 100 degrees) and it started and ran fine.
2. 10 minutes/miles to home - died in the driveway. Restart after 1 hour.
I've since done the "stand-off" mod on the ICM, with new Artic MX-4 heat transfer paste. So good, so far.

I just installed a K&N Cold Air (hope I didn't waste my money), and am going to install full 1.6 roller rockers (looking for suggestion. Original engine had Comp 1.6 steel Magnums.
I just bought a set of correct Comp Magnum pushrods. I 'd like self-aligning rockers and my factory valve covers are already clearanced. Curious about steel vs. aluminum.

Much thanks to (in no particular order) GaryDoug, Injuneer, JakeRobb, TubbyFormy, Chimera96 (for the polished turd comment) and Brandon Strong.


Thanks,
Chris

caci

UPDATE
I DID install Comp 1.6 roller rockers.
After wrestling with ICM issues and alternator that gave up the ghost 5 days out of warranty, car seems to be running good.
(I will be relocating the ICM to the area where the original air box lived - still in the engine compartment, attached to a larger, finely finned heat sink)

Today I went to another Dyno and now have what I believe are usable results - "smoothing' & RPM-based graphing.
Since I have a permanent W/B installed (AEM), we didn't sniff it.

2 pulls, identical HP results. Differences in red/pink are due to approximately 6000rpm "let off" vs, 6200rpm rev limiter (graph "B")
Those "blips" are just hiccups from the induction lead on the spark plug wire losing contact momentarily.

Torque curve is impressive from 2500rpm to peak and still strong to 5250rpm, where it crosses HP.
While I'd love to see HP climb to redline, peak at 5300rpm is better than previous 4500rpm and falloff is less.

Dyno Operator (also tunes) commented that my A/F meter reading WOT (12.5) might could be a little leaner and gain some HP.
I've sent this to Brandon Strong for his review.

Anyone else have any thoughts?

Thanks,
Chris


Graph "A"


Graph "B"