need mods- lost to a mustang
#16
well this is great , all these post in no time. on the other board i got 1 post per week. I do know a good bit about cars i just dont want to buy parts that wont help much for the money. I never had one of these and sold my turbo buick for it that i built my self and was a high 11sec car. If i do the super charger it will probably just be the 4.5 psi.
so long tube headers because of emissions,
gears - what size are in the car, dont they come with 3:42,
and a stall , would a 3200 be over kill on the stock car with the stock cam.
thanks for all the help, by the way i ran 26psi on my buick i think i can do 4.5psi lol
so long tube headers because of emissions,
gears - what size are in the car, dont they come with 3:42,
and a stall , would a 3200 be over kill on the stock car with the stock cam.
thanks for all the help, by the way i ran 26psi on my buick i think i can do 4.5psi lol
#19
ok now iam lost, some say to run long tubes if i need emissions and others say use them if i dont have emissions.
the other is how can i find out what gear are in the rear, is there a site i can look up the number on the rear or something. I would say 2:73 in the rear because its slow from the get go, i was just getting to 2nd when he was probably at 3rd.
what about the chips or programmers and under drive pulleys, are they a waste of money.
thanks this is a lot of help
the other is how can i find out what gear are in the rear, is there a site i can look up the number on the rear or something. I would say 2:73 in the rear because its slow from the get go, i was just getting to 2nd when he was probably at 3rd.
what about the chips or programmers and under drive pulleys, are they a waste of money.
thanks this is a lot of help
#21
Only 93 uses chips. 94+ has a ECU the you can reprogram. I basically the only programmer you can buy that is easy to use is hypertech power programmer which is not worth the money. You don't really need to tune the car untill you get a cam. Then when you do either get a mail order tune(do a search to find these) or a dyno tune. As for the headers shorty headers will keep the stock cats in the same spot so you will pass emissions with them. But without a carb# you still can't be certain. Midlegths usually will relocate the cat which is not smog legal, so it will fail a visual test. But will pass the actual emission part. Long tubes remove the cats all together so you won't pass emissions with them. Although you can get the cats with them. It is alot more obvious that the cats are relocated so more and likely you will fail the test.
#22
OK if you can select 1st on your shifter you have 3.23, if it only goes down to 2nd you have 2.73 like me. bang for the buck id go with Jet-Hot long tubes to a cutout, gears, and a converter in the 2800-3000 range. Even for a stock cam the converter is gonna blow your mind, ive done higher stall converter swaps on 2 other vehicles along with shift kits and what not, and it was like getting in a brand new vehicle. with the mods listed above you should be able to smoke that Rustang.
CR
CR
#23
I think it will go all the way down to 1st so it must be 3:23, maybe some 3:73 would help also with the stall and headers soon.
ok just a few more questions for now , if i run the headers, 3000 stall and 3:73 gears this car should be a 13 sec car right.
what headers are better the bbk shorty or the edelbrock headers.
what about the under drive pulley
thanks
ok just a few more questions for now , if i run the headers, 3000 stall and 3:73 gears this car should be a 13 sec car right.
what headers are better the bbk shorty or the edelbrock headers.
what about the under drive pulley
thanks
#24
If you want the edelbrocks for your '94, I have a coated set. They made 480 rwhp on my car until I switched to the flp's. Please e-mail me if interested. I also have a gutted cat which you could hook up to them. The edelbrocks are fine, but they are not longtubes.
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