in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
05-11-2011, 01:39 PM
#16
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 180
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
The programmer/PCM tune isn't really necessary or worth the money at this point. Once you get some more modification onto the car, then it becomes worth the $$ and necessary.
Where you're at right now I'd go:
1) Suspension; New polyurethane bushing kit for the front; Aftermarket PHR (Panhard Rod) & LCAs (Lower Control Arms) [I like the UMI or BMR products]; and a set of SFCs (Sub-Frame Connectors, weld-in style); Poly-Sway Bar mounts.
2) If it's a M6, then get a shifter (I'm a Pro-5.0 user, and love it); if it's an automatic, get a shift kit.
3) Long-tube headers & Y-pipe
4) Cam Swap (CC 306 or 503)/1.6 Roller Rockers (This is when you need the PCM tune)
This should yield you what you're looking for, and will make your car not only perform better from the motor, but handling wise as well. Plus everything is easy to put on except the sub-frame connectors.
For those; Talk with one of the mechanics, or my personal favorite, the body guys who do the heavy-collision repairs. If you can talk them into it, and get clearance at work. See if you can have them put your car onto the body rack, check it for straightness, and then weld the sub-frames in. I had this done to my car. It's WAY beyond the way most people do it, and what you need to do; but if you have the facilities, and someone who knows what they're doing with a body rack, it's the BEST way to do it. If they can't put it on the rack, I'd still see if they'd be willing to put them on and teach you what they're doing while they're doing it.
Where you're at right now I'd go:
1) Suspension; New polyurethane bushing kit for the front; Aftermarket PHR (Panhard Rod) & LCAs (Lower Control Arms) [I like the UMI or BMR products]; and a set of SFCs (Sub-Frame Connectors, weld-in style); Poly-Sway Bar mounts.
2) If it's a M6, then get a shifter (I'm a Pro-5.0 user, and love it); if it's an automatic, get a shift kit.
3) Long-tube headers & Y-pipe
4) Cam Swap (CC 306 or 503)/1.6 Roller Rockers (This is when you need the PCM tune)
This should yield you what you're looking for, and will make your car not only perform better from the motor, but handling wise as well. Plus everything is easy to put on except the sub-frame connectors.
For those; Talk with one of the mechanics, or my personal favorite, the body guys who do the heavy-collision repairs. If you can talk them into it, and get clearance at work. See if you can have them put your car onto the body rack, check it for straightness, and then weld the sub-frames in. I had this done to my car. It's WAY beyond the way most people do it, and what you need to do; but if you have the facilities, and someone who knows what they're doing with a body rack, it's the BEST way to do it. If they can't put it on the rack, I'd still see if they'd be willing to put them on and teach you what they're doing while they're doing it.
sorry for all the questions but now that i've been building up the cash to do all this i've really got my interest into this car as i've always wanted a decently build z28 since i was like 8 back when my dad had one
EDIT: im an A4 kinda guy as i live in atlanta and during heavy traffic a m6 would make me wanna kick dents in the side of the car lol
LCA's that i found http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-TCA001R/
Bushing kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-18130R/
Panhard rods http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-PHR002R/
Subframe connectors http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-SFC002R/
sway bar mounts http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-SMK004/
Last edited by Lilatlboy6969; 05-11-2011 at 01:52 PM.
05-11-2011, 04:26 PM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 2,667
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
Subframe connectors you have linked to are wrong; those are for a convertible; won't work on a t-top/hardtop car.
Sway bar mounts are also wrong; you just need the generic ones for the size of your sway bars and the length of the sleeve for the end parts.
Gas mileage will go down some, but shouldn't be effected too much, but that all depends how hard you're pressing on the happy-pedal.
Gains from that will probably be in the 50+/- hp range at the rear wheels; maybe a little more/less depending on the cam/tune. To get to the 100 hp rante, you're talking a cylinder head swap and more mods, which will add another prob 3k on top of the price.
Sway bar mounts are also wrong; you just need the generic ones for the size of your sway bars and the length of the sleeve for the end parts.
Gas mileage will go down some, but shouldn't be effected too much, but that all depends how hard you're pressing on the happy-pedal.
Gains from that will probably be in the 50+/- hp range at the rear wheels; maybe a little more/less depending on the cam/tune. To get to the 100 hp rante, you're talking a cylinder head swap and more mods, which will add another prob 3k on top of the price.
05-11-2011, 04:35 PM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 180
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
thank you i didnt even realize there was a difference... i can only find ones for hard tops and convertibles.. should i go with the hard top ones since i have t tops?
05-11-2011, 05:26 PM
#19
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Location: SLC, UT
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Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
Correct; order the hard-top parts.
T-Top and Hard-Tops are identical from a chassis point. The T-Top frame is actually covered by sheet metal for the roof instead of the glass t-tops. (Look up a t-top conversion if you want to see pictures)
T-Top and Hard-Tops are identical from a chassis point. The T-Top frame is actually covered by sheet metal for the roof instead of the glass t-tops. (Look up a t-top conversion if you want to see pictures)
05-11-2011, 10:38 PM
#20
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Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
sweet, thanks for the info i guess its true u do learn something new every day
05-13-2011, 12:42 AM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
I would lighten the load.Dump the spare tire and jack,(38lbs.).Forget adding subframes at this point.Might consider a wheel change to a light setup(Centerline,ect)Could save a hundred pounds or so.)Go with a lighter battery.Use NGK plugs,MSD wires.Might do the cheap stuff first.This may not give you 50 more ponies,but it will bring a smile to your face.Hope this helps.
05-13-2011, 09:18 AM
#22
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Location: SLC, UT
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Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
Forget the most effective stiffening measure which improves handling and cuts down on rattles first? 
Yea.... ok.
And going to a lighter wheel at this point is just throwing $$ away; there's zero need for it for a street driven car.
Yea.... ok.And going to a lighter wheel at this point is just throwing $$ away; there's zero need for it for a street driven car.
05-14-2011, 12:22 AM
#23
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
38lbs.jack and spare.
100lbs. lighter wheel set-up
battery-10lbs.
subs-don't know,but I'm guessing 40lbs.
new cat-5hp
mid range pipe-2hp
better muffler-4hp
throttle bypass-1hp
NGK plugs
MSD wires-quick response.
Mobile One oil-2hp.
It's just me.He did ask for just 50 hp.My02
05-14-2011, 03:24 AM
#24
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 907
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
There is no arguing that there are two ways to go faster- either go on a diet or add more muscle. I would recommend a little of both. But forgetting subframe connectors, esp in a t-top car seems like bad advice. I didn't think they would do much until I put them in my car- difference immediately noticed.
There are plenty of 'free' mods that can be done and nobody has suggested anything drastic. Quite a few bolt ons and it will make a nice difference in the car. Be aware that once you start its a slippery slope- soon you'll be looking into new heads, bigger cam, etc.
Good luck with it and enjoy the fun.
There are plenty of 'free' mods that can be done and nobody has suggested anything drastic. Quite a few bolt ons and it will make a nice difference in the car. Be aware that once you start its a slippery slope- soon you'll be looking into new heads, bigger cam, etc.
Good luck with it and enjoy the fun.
05-14-2011, 12:35 PM
#25
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Location: SLC, UT
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Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
I will agree that reducing weight will make a car slightly faster; but the ROI on a set of lightweight wheels is extremely low when compared to something like headers and a cam/rocker swap, combined will cost about the same or cheaper then a decent set of lightweight wheels & tires.
ROI - Return On Investment
ROI - Return On Investment
05-15-2011, 07:46 PM
#26
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Location: Georgia
Posts: 180
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
I'm only saying that by a lighter car,may feel like an extra 50 ponies.At least to me.
38lbs.jack and spare.
100lbs. lighter wheel set-up
battery-10lbs.
subs-don't know,but I'm guessing 40lbs.
new cat-5hp
mid range pipe-2hp
better muffler-4hp
throttle bypass-1hp
NGK plugs
MSD wires-quick response.
Mobile One oil-2hp.
It's just me.He did ask for just 50 hp.My02
38lbs.jack and spare.
100lbs. lighter wheel set-up
battery-10lbs.
subs-don't know,but I'm guessing 40lbs.
new cat-5hp
mid range pipe-2hp
better muffler-4hp
throttle bypass-1hp
NGK plugs
MSD wires-quick response.
Mobile One oil-2hp.
It's just me.He did ask for just 50 hp.My02
thanks everyone for their input i'll continually check this thread while i do my last 6 months in iraq so i can keep getting some more ideas for my baby once i get home this winter. so far i think i agree with alot of the guys. doing the suspension before the motor is probably the best idea
05-15-2011, 08:15 PM
#28
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: KC,MO
Posts: 8
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
Just some reference:
My car makes 45hp and 47tq more than it did completely stock and I have:
CAI
Long tubes
3" ORY through a dynomax bullet with a dump
Tune
It doesnt take much at all to open these cars up.
You could do an electric water pump. I have no proof of how much power but Ive heard anywhere from 5-10hp.
If you're looking for a ~50hp gain, there is no need to head/cam swap it.
My car makes 45hp and 47tq more than it did completely stock and I have:
CAI
Long tubes
3" ORY through a dynomax bullet with a dump
Tune
It doesnt take much at all to open these cars up.
You could do an electric water pump. I have no proof of how much power but Ive heard anywhere from 5-10hp.
If you're looking for a ~50hp gain, there is no need to head/cam swap it.
05-19-2011, 07:14 PM
#30
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 259
Re: in need of someone with patience and lots of exp with lt1
there are places online that have the electric WP and the relay kit needed for it. Summit has a few different options for the 95z28 because i was looking at them on there there brand WP comes with everything needed to install it and have it running the other 2 options you have to get buy the relay kit seperate and the NPT to AN adaptar. heres a link to the 4 electric WPs. When you click on a specific one there will be a tab for "Required Parts" and it will show you what you need to get it installed and running. I think i will end up getting the Summit one since it comes with everthing needed as a kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc