LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

need suggestions on motor

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Old 09-30-2008 | 07:27 PM
  #1  
jeremy stanke's Avatar
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need suggestions on motor

i found a reasonably priced 96 LT1 with 160,xxx miles on it. obviously i would have the block rebuilt but i dont know if i should have it stroked while i am at it or just a stock rebuild. i will be going with some kind of LE or AI heads and cam. i would also like to spray around a 150-200 shot through it.

i dont know if i should buy this motor and then have it stroked out or just buy a short block from some place like VRE for 3 grand. they are only about 45 minutes from where i live.

or should i just do a stock rebuild on it and mess with the heads and cam?

any suggestions?
Old 10-01-2008 | 12:06 AM
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2 or 4 bolt? Still I wouldn't mess with that 160K motor
cept to keep as a backup...
Old 10-01-2008 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 2manyToyz
Still I wouldn't mess with that 160K motor
that is why i would be REBUILDING it.
Old 10-02-2008 | 08:30 PM
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one of the local machine shops quoted me 3000-3200 for them to rebuild my block and install a 383 kit with forged pistons. that is parts and labor, is that a good price?
Old 10-02-2008 | 11:58 PM
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Buy a VRE shortblock with a cast crank, forged pistons and rods, 4 bolt or at least something to the mains so you can turn 7k on n2o. Keep you limit at a 150 shot.

If you want to go more n2o, get a nitrous piston and ring setup. Forged everything, mains, etc. You limit could be between 175-350 shot depending on how crazy you want to get.

If i were you i would go with a basic forged n2o piston, forged crank and rods, mains. Your limit here would probably be 250. More than enough, but remember your going to want to go faster and faster. Changing jets is quick so i would leave some room from your limit of 200.

Build a 383, its not much more and with produce more power and quite a bit more torque. Im an LE guy so i would say a le2,3 would be a great top end.

Figure the 383 puts down 420/420rw, the 200 shot would be 625/665rw. That should keep most guys happy.
Old 10-03-2008 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by slomarao

Build a 383, its not much more and with produce more power and quite a bit more torque. Im an LE guy so i would say a le2,3 would be a great top end.

Figure the 383 puts down 420/420rw, the 200 shot would be 625/665rw. That should keep most guys happy.
could i run a 300 shot dual stage kit (150 each) and be safe with a forged n20 piston, rods, crand and mains?
Old 10-03-2008 | 12:20 PM
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A 383 spinning 7k on the jugg with a cast crank?

I haven't seen that many 383's that needed 7k to peak power but if I had one I wouldn't put a cast crank in it just go ahead and forged the bottom end with good parts and have some piece of mind.. But on the other hand it might live awhile as long as you weren't beating it to death with the N2o
Old 10-03-2008 | 12:33 PM
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Well maybe not 7k, but 6500rpms.

The dual stage 300 shot, i wouldnt do it. I would say 100 out of the hole followed by a 125. Thats a lot of n2o.
Old 10-05-2008 | 12:59 PM
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what about this motor, it has 20k miles on it

383 STROKER LT1
Block decked .005
Block bored .03
Eagle "ESP" H-beam connecting rods.CRS5700B3D length 5.700"
Eagle CRS Forged 4340 "INTERNAL" Balance Eagle 3.75" Stroke Crank
SRP 139628 - SRP SB-Chevy Low Compression Forged Dish Pistons, Dome Volume -16cc
MEL 55 oil pump
ARP 234-5501 main studs
Comp Cams XFI LT1 Camshaft, 230 / 236, .576 / .570 113
LSA Hardened Pushrods
Comp Cams 1.6 Roller Rockers
Combo Springs/locks/retainers
Manley Valves 2.02/1.60
LE2 Heads
Old 10-06-2008 | 05:58 PM
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yes/no?
Old 10-06-2008 | 07:00 PM
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Those piston's have a pretty deep dish but would probaly make good power with a blower,turbo setup .. But not really what I would want to run N/A
Old 10-06-2008 | 08:29 PM
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here is some more info on the pistons

SRP 139628 - SRP SB-Chevy Low Compression Forged Pistons
Inverted dome utilizes radius tooling to eliminate hot spots. Symmetrical valve reliefs for universal installation. Valve reliefs cut for oversized valves and most street/strip camshafts. Lower ring lands and thicker crown for increased durability. High silicon alloy for tighter piston to wall clearance. Can be used in small blower and nitrous applications. .927'' x 2.750'' x .150'' straight wall carbon steel wristpin (130g) included. 1/16, 1/16, 3/16'' ring

how much hp do you think it would make? i do plan on running N20 so if the deep pistons help than thats a plus for me.
Old 10-06-2008 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremy stanke
here is some more info on the pistons

SRP 139628 - SRP SB-Chevy Low Compression Forged Pistons
Inverted dome utilizes radius tooling to eliminate hot spots. Symmetrical valve reliefs for universal installation. Valve reliefs cut for oversized valves and most street/strip camshafts. Lower ring lands and thicker crown for increased durability. High silicon alloy for tighter piston to wall clearance. Can be used in small blower and nitrous applications. .927'' x 2.750'' x .150'' straight wall carbon steel wristpin (130g) included. 1/16, 1/16, 3/16'' ring

how much hp do you think it would make? i do plan on running N20 so if the deep pistons help than thats a plus for me.
Id estimate 600whp with the 200 shot and LE set up. As far as the deep dish pistons, nitrous does not care about your compression. You could go a flat top and be fine.

However I have no idea what you want your compression to be, and going flat top would raise it. Thing about nitrous is, you need a quality nitrous piston and ring setup if you want it to be able to 'easily' handle it.

Not saying a nice forged piston will not do ok aswell. I figure atleast 80% of people running nitrous are not running nitrous specific pistons.

Also, no way would I ever put a 200 shot on a stock rebuild, 150 is even high imo.

Last edited by bombebomb; 10-06-2008 at 08:51 PM.
Old 10-07-2008 | 04:57 PM
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i dont really know what the compression does for me. what should it be around?
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