LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

New 383, low coolant, really is missing coolant, NO leaks or white smoke

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Old 12-18-2006, 02:30 PM
  #16  
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Nope, I've been adding coolant through the radiator cap. Problem is when I had the car running with the cap off i saw the coolant level rising, it wasn't going down. When this happens I should shut the car off and let the coolant settle? I never saw it go down with the cap off and car running. By the way I only have one bleeder screw. I upgraded to the 95+ coolant hose design and have my heater core deleted. I guess i'll go out to the car tonight and see whats up, i'm sure it went down.
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:11 PM
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the one bleeder screw thing could be a reason why you are having difficulty.
whatever the case, keep the one bleeder screw open and let the engine get to operating temperature. it's much easier to have two people do this. that way you can let the coolant rise as high as possible and cut the motor off quick as well as having someone monitor the temp guage.
the steam pipe which returns into the radiator... it connects just below the radiator fill... do you see coolant flowing out of it in a steady stream when the coolant level is low in the radiator? if you only see it dribble or come out sporatically then you most likely still have air in the system.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:10 PM
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ok this weekend i'll turn the car on and see if she is low (which she will prob be). I'll add the coolant, close the cap, open the bleeder screw and turn the engine on and let her get to operating temp. I'll let the coolant come out of the bleeder until its a steady stream, then close it, shut the car off, let her cool down, open the cap and add coolant if nessisary. My question is, i drove the car around, got her to operating temp, stoped on the side of the road and cracked that bleeder open. Coolant came out, but definitly not in a steady stream like ive seen before. It came out, sometime in squirts and semi small streams. I assume that means the system is still air bound, i left it like that for what seemed like 10 minutes and she was doing the same thing...how long does this process usually take? Thanks........this sucks.....
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:21 PM
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The process should take only minutes after the engine is at operating temp. Leave the radiator cap off for the entire process. If coolant starts to overflow then shut the engine off and let it settle down. When the coolant starts to go down DO NOT fill it all the way back to the top. Leave about 4" or more of clearence from the top of the radiator to the coolant. This way it gives the coolant some space to expand when it gets hot so it'll be less likely to overflow. Once you get a steady flow of coolant through the steam pipe opening and a steady stream out of the bleeer screw (before closing it) that is a good indication your system is bled. Let the car run while that steady stream comes out of the steam pipe inlet into the radiator and observe the coolant level in the radiator to ensure it stabilizes. After it does fill the radiator up and then the overflow tank (only to the HOT level) and you should be good to go. Keep a gallon of water w/ you for the first couple of days just for giggles. The coolant level may settle down a bit after driving it a few times.
One other thing to add... if it overflows and insists on overflowing through the radiator cap no matter how many times you shut the engine off then just put the cap back on and keep the bleeder screw open. Once coolant comes out in a steady stream via the bleeder screw then start the above process.
If this is the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing then make sure to put a shop rag underneath so it won't get the opti wet.

Last edited by SS RRR; 12-18-2006 at 10:24 PM.
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