New Engine, missing 70-80 RWHP any thoughts
#16
Tough to say with a rebuild. Could be the rings never seated and/or other tolerances are just not "on". Ring seat in itself can cost you alot of power. But let's just take it one step at a time and be positive.
First off, those R lifters need a max of 1/4 turn. I've had good luck with them at 1/8 turn. Try a readjust and let us know. One step at a time.....
-Mindgame
First off, those R lifters need a max of 1/4 turn. I've had good luck with them at 1/8 turn. Try a readjust and let us know. One step at a time.....
-Mindgame
#17
There is nothing wrong with the heads. You should be easily over 400 rwhp. My bet is the valve lash was too tight. The R lifters only need 1/8-1/4 turn past zero lash. You also need to make sure that you adjust the rockers when the car is warmed up also. The oil in the lifters will react differently when it is hot.
My suggestion would be to heat the engine up and then re-adjust the rockers with 1/8 turn on the comp-R's.
Good Luck
-Stu
My suggestion would be to heat the engine up and then re-adjust the rockers with 1/8 turn on the comp-R's.
Good Luck
-Stu
#19
You said your running .625 in. lift and have valvetrain noise? Makes me wonder if the retainers are hitting the guide boss/seal @ max lift. Did you check this clearance before assembling the engine?
#21
Originally posted by disco192
There is nothing wrong with the heads. You should be easily over 400 rwhp. My bet is the valve lash was too tight. The R lifters only need 1/8-1/4 turn past zero lash. You also need to make sure that you adjust the rockers when the car is warmed up also. The oil in the lifters will react differently when it is hot.
My suggestion would be to heat the engine up and then re-adjust the rockers with 1/8 turn on the comp-R's.
Good Luck
-Stu
There is nothing wrong with the heads. You should be easily over 400 rwhp. My bet is the valve lash was too tight. The R lifters only need 1/8-1/4 turn past zero lash. You also need to make sure that you adjust the rockers when the car is warmed up also. The oil in the lifters will react differently when it is hot.
My suggestion would be to heat the engine up and then re-adjust the rockers with 1/8 turn on the comp-R's.
Good Luck
-Stu
Good advice for the first step.
-Mindgame
#24
Well I don't really take offense, anyone's going to question everything, so that's fine. There's so much to these things that you almost never have something work completely perfectly the first time out (when youre sending parts across the country anyhow ).
I wont give out specs, however I will say that this is literally the same topend that was on Russ Ethridge's car which made 425rwhp SAE by 6300rpm with exhaust, pump fuel, and a moser 12 bolt. Actually Alex has another 7-11cfm across the board after some minor tweaking & freshening
We've been ridiculously busy lately fighting stupid issues (office things, computers etc.) but I've been in contact with Alex and we've laid out the exact differences between his setup & russ', and have that much figured out. It's not a long list & I'd rather not give away information, but fortunately (or unfortunately?) between restrictions, physical setup and tuning it more than adds up
I'm more than confident that when we swap to a configuration more oriented towards a 400-430rwhp SAE car he should easily be where one would anticipate
Oh, and for those waiting on email responses, I'm still working on it & I apologize for making people wait. I've little time these days to fix computers, but should have our email service functioning again sometime this weekend.
Thanks for the good tips from a few of you guys, that stuff is certainly on the list .
-Phil
I wont give out specs, however I will say that this is literally the same topend that was on Russ Ethridge's car which made 425rwhp SAE by 6300rpm with exhaust, pump fuel, and a moser 12 bolt. Actually Alex has another 7-11cfm across the board after some minor tweaking & freshening
We've been ridiculously busy lately fighting stupid issues (office things, computers etc.) but I've been in contact with Alex and we've laid out the exact differences between his setup & russ', and have that much figured out. It's not a long list & I'd rather not give away information, but fortunately (or unfortunately?) between restrictions, physical setup and tuning it more than adds up
I'm more than confident that when we swap to a configuration more oriented towards a 400-430rwhp SAE car he should easily be where one would anticipate
Oh, and for those waiting on email responses, I'm still working on it & I apologize for making people wait. I've little time these days to fix computers, but should have our email service functioning again sometime this weekend.
Thanks for the good tips from a few of you guys, that stuff is certainly on the list .
-Phil
#26
I will have to wait till next week to get any more info for you guys. Thanks for the good ideas. I am sure this thing will be ironed out in a couple of weeks. My goal is to have about 650 RWHP w/a 200 shot.
#27
Originally posted by 526 SS 96
The car is a manual. I am running the comp R lifter, I set them at zero lash + 1/2 turn. I still have some valve train noise (in spots, I think 2-3 rockers are ticking very slightly, and I was going to check their adjustment. By saying "zero lash" you mean to take all the play (up & dn) out, and then tighten the set screw?
The car is a manual. I am running the comp R lifter, I set them at zero lash + 1/2 turn. I still have some valve train noise (in spots, I think 2-3 rockers are ticking very slightly, and I was going to check their adjustment. By saying "zero lash" you mean to take all the play (up & dn) out, and then tighten the set screw?
Yes leave them at zero lash or 1/16th of a turn past, I found that even with 1/8th of a turn you start having problems, set them to zero lash like you said, tighten the set screw real tight, then turn the whole nut just a bit more, it won't turn much, maybe 1/16th of a turn but it will make sure the set screw doesnt come loose, so:
-set zero lash
-tighten set screw
-now tighten the nut another 1/16th of a turn or less, this is to make sure they stay tight as the set screw will be pushed up against the rocker stud much harder & stay.
You will gain a ton of power trust me!
#29
Originally posted by 97 RedSS
I dont understand how you can gain any power at all w/ that small of an adjustment having a hyrdraulic cam Maybe I need some more clarification?
Cody
I dont understand how you can gain any power at all w/ that small of an adjustment having a hyrdraulic cam Maybe I need some more clarification?
Cody
How about throwing some of us a bone here. You don't have to talk cam/heads/secrets to tell us what the problem is here, do you? Everyone starts off low on power and has to fight for the missing hp. Any light on initial troublehshooting would benefit many guys on this board .
Ryan
#30
Not trying to step on anyone's toes but I have never seen that kind of power adjusting ANY kind of hydraulics or for that matter solid lifters! We've done 8500 rpm hydraulics too but that stuff is cheating anyway.