Chevycobb

Now that my car is somewhat drivable I have a few things that I would like some help with. First of all it is a 355 with CC305 cam and LE1 heads if that may help at all.

1) When I go to start the car it acts like the battery is dying and then starts and runs fine. New battery and alternator....could it be fuel related? I tried to get all the old fuel out that sat in the tank for about 8 months, but maybe there is still some left in there causing it's hard start?

2) I'm constantly trying to watch my oil pressure while I drive but have to go by the gauge on the dash. how accurate is it? if i'm at idle or cruising it stays between 20-40psi(going by cluster gauge). Is this a suitable range for the pressure? there was one point where it dropped a little below 20 psi but came back up above it.

3) I haven't had a chance or the funds for a tune yet and will go with a "mail order tune" first as a base tune. Am I ok driving it without a tune for while or should I watch how often I drive it?
Going back to the oil pressure, will a tune help with the oil pressure at all? the one time I saw it dropped below 20psi the car actually felt like it was about to die because it had trouble holding a steady idle but corrected itself.

Sorry for the questions, but I want to have as little of a problem with this engine as it is the first one I have ever done. Thanks in advance and thanks for all the help everyone has provided me in the past!

OBE1 95Z28

1) Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight at both ends of the cables.

2) Oil pressure is rpm dependent as well as heat dependent. Cold oil will read a higher pressure than warm oil. Typically oil pressure is around 10 psi for every 1K rpm once the oil is warm.

3) Give Jeff Creech at Carolina Auto Masters a call about your tune. Tuning won't affect your oil pressure.

Chevycobb

all wires are clean and tight as best as I can tell. Maybe my starter is crapping out on me. probably the only thing left from the old motor that isn't new or rebuilt.

They seem pretty expensive as far as "mail order" tunes go, and I haven't heard of anyone using them for that. How close would they be able to get it to a dyno tune?

I guess I am just paranoid about the oil pressure. Any sounds and smells are getting me worried. I'm just proud of myself that it actually started the first time, but I don't want anything to happen to it.

Chevycobb

Ok, I tried to see what would happen if I jump started my car, basically it's using my new battery and another battery, and started right up. Is it possible that my starter is pulling too much power from my battery so it can spin faster? With only starting with my battery it turns real slow and seems to dim all the lights and stuff to draw more power from the battery? Does this at all sound like a possible starter going out on me?

The starter sat around for a long time without being used, but I don't know if that would have anything to do with it.

1racerdude

Get a higher cranking amp bat and see. If that don't do it try replacing the starter. The new engine is tight and requires more umph from the cranking system.
If it seems rich I would NOT drive it until tuned.
Get a manual gage and verify the OP. If it is 20 at idle it's OK but less I would try to idle it up a tad to compensate.
Ya might want to try a different oil also.

Chevycobb

Well today I took it out for a 20 minute drive and don't like what I was seeing. The first 10 minutes there was no problem, then the oil pressure was looking a little funny. I tried to take a few pics, but doing that while driving isn't easy lol.

at idel about 10 minutes after driving

cruising and blurry

In my driveway idling after driving it for about 20 minutes

Does this look really low to anyone else???? It seemed to slowly drop

Birdman7389

Change the oil quick like to get any little junk out that may be in there from the heads/cam. Then get your tune... I would not drive it a whole lot till then.

Victory Racing

What weight oil are your running?

When the car was idling in your driveway what was the rpm at?

Did you change to a larger injector with the 355?

1racerdude

Ge that oil out..
Try a thicker oil...
That may be why the thing is hard to crank...
Cut the filter open and see if there is metal in it before dumping in new oil it may be hurt and have to come back out.

Chevycobb

yeah i'll change the oil tomorrow, I haven't seen it that low since I first started it. What about it can cause the pressure to drop like that???

no I haven't had the funds yet for larger injectors...still the stock ones, and right now its running 10w30 in it(non synthetic). Which actaully makes me want to ask when is a good time to switch to synthetic??

1racerdude

Switch after 2000 miles and be sure and cut open the filter.

Chevycobb

what am i looking for when I cut open the filter?? or I guess what should I hope not to find in it??

sorry nick, forgot to answer one of your questions. it was idling at about 800-900 rpms going by stock tach

1racerdude

Ya DO NOT want to find any silver or gold flakes of metal.

Chevycobb

So if I don't find any flakes(i'm guessing from bearings???) What could cause my pressure to drop?

Sweetred95ta

What kind of oil pump did you put in the motor? Hopefully not a Melling because those pressures look similar to what I've seen people have with Mellings. The best pump for these cars are the factory pumps with an 80 psi "white" spring.

If you go by the oil pressure > RPM/100 rule, then you seem to be OK.