LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

new engine running...now I have questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-13-2006, 07:48 PM
  #31  
Registered User
 
AlmostfastLT1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Viriginia Beach VA
Posts: 1,191
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by Chevycobb
yeah its got VERY little metal in there. Hope everything is fine. I'm tempted to drop the oil pan just to see...maybe after next oil change, because it looks like a pain in the *** to get off of there with the motor in the car.

Yea dont let this guys all freak you out, it is usually small fillings from the cam bearings, you will see this on your first two oil changes..

Mark
AlmostfastLT1 is offline  
Old 07-13-2006, 07:54 PM
  #32  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by Chevycobb
same...10W30....is it possible my pick up could have moved up higher and not getting everything off the bottom of the pan? I know it was pretty damn tight on there...but I don't know...maybe???

I got a cherry picker so maybe pulling the pan won't be that big of a deal....looks like if I remove engine mount bolts I can pull it up high enough it will have to wait until the weekend though...
BEFORE ya go to the work of pulling it, Put some 40W DINO OIL IN IT and see if it does BETTER and empty the filter.

ISN'T THE 10/30 what caused the LOW pressure??????

Probably NOT the pick up.
1racerdude is offline  
Old 07-13-2006, 09:43 PM
  #33  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Chevycobb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,272
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by 1racerdude

Probably NOT the pick up.

eh, i'm just throwing out ideas lol
Chevycobb is offline  
Old 07-13-2006, 09:57 PM
  #34  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by Chevycobb
eh, i'm just throwing out ideas lol
I know.
Pickups don't just fall off it is usually due to it not being pressed to the ridge on the pickup or trying to use an old pickup.

Get some 40W dino oil in it and let me know how it does.

Ya gonna have all kind of opinions so lets just see if the thicker oil will raise the OP and give a signal it ain't hurt.
1racerdude is offline  
Old 07-13-2006, 09:58 PM
  #35  
Registered User
 
Sweetred95ta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: High Ridge, MO
Posts: 2,193
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

What happens if he takes the car to the track and makes multiple WOT runs? Or, he is playing with someone on the highway and running the car hard for an extended period of time? I agree, put in a heavier weight oil, but if it restores pressure at idle, don't assume that your problem is fixed. I would say, after you have the oil in there, make a few WOT runs and make sure the oil pressure isn't falling off. Hopefully, the car straightens itself out and you don't have any problems. I just know that I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if the motor I'd just built wasn't holding proper oil pressure, especially if there is a chance that it may cause damage if it's not fixed.

I guess what you're getting at is making sure the bottom end is fine and narrowing it down to the pump? What happens if it restores his oil pressure? Does he run that oil from now on? Not trying to start a pissing match or anything, just trying to understand what is going on.

Last edited by Sweetred95ta; 07-13-2006 at 10:04 PM.
Sweetred95ta is offline  
Old 07-13-2006, 10:06 PM
  #36  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by Sweetred95ta
What happens if he takes the car to the track and makes multiple WOT runs? Or, he is playing with someone on the highway and running the car hard for an extended period of time? I agree, put in a heavier weight oil, but if it restores pressure at idle, don't assume that your problem is fixed. I would say, after you have the oil in there, make a few WOT runs and make sure the oil pressure isn't falling off. Hopefully, the car straightens itself out and you don't have any problems. I just know that I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if the motor I'd just built wasn't holding proper oil pressure, especially if there is a chance that it may cause damage if it's not fixed.


NOBODY is TALKING going to the tract or WOT passes. IMO ya DON'T do that with a NEW engine that has a PROBLEM.
Ya FIRST have to figure out the PROBLEM before ya can fix it.

If ya just go in and replace the pump and button it up that MAY NOT fix it. THEN WHAT -- SHeeeeeee
1racerdude is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:04 PM
  #37  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Chevycobb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,272
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

put in the 40W and same situation....
no, no WOT runs for me...it's barely seen past 3000 rpms so far
Chevycobb is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:15 PM
  #38  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by Chevycobb
put in the 40W and same situation....
no, no WOT runs for me...it's barely seen past 3000 rpms so far
The same OP when it's hot???

The same as the first oil or after the change?
1racerdude is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:32 PM
  #39  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Chevycobb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,272
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

same as after the change. the only thing I can think of is that something is happening with the pump as it gets hot...i'm thinking about putting my old stock pump in there.
Chevycobb is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:33 PM
  #40  
Registered User
 
WS Sick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
Posts: 2,725
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

I'm wondering if the gauge is correct?

I've found the factory gauges to be somewhat vauge.
WS Sick is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:37 PM
  #41  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Chevycobb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,272
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

well if I start it up cold the pressure seems to hang around 40psi at idle but slowly drop off as it is driven....
Chevycobb is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:39 PM
  #42  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

Originally Posted by Chevycobb
same as after the change. the only thing I can think of is that something is happening with the pump as it gets hot...i'm thinking about putting my old stock pump in there.
It is still going down below 20psi at hot idle???

Ya might need to check to see if your idle RPM's are correct as slow idle can cause that.

Edit: Do ya have a manual gage on it? If not ya need to check it with one and be sure.

Last edited by 1racerdude; 07-14-2006 at 04:45 PM.
1racerdude is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 05:14 PM
  #43  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Chevycobb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,272
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

thats some good info to know there.
I know I don't know as much as most do about this topic, so obviously i'm going to keep thinking the the pump is the problem like the pick up is sitting to high or something. and thats why I come on cz28.com

not sure how I go about hooking a manual tach to it, but it makes since because its on stock tuning and maybe showing wrong rpms??? i'll have to do a search and see if I can find out how...
Chevycobb is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 05:30 PM
  #44  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

if you have the chance go an get a better baffled higher capacity oil pan that is engineered to control the oil supply better, NOTICE not once did I say spend tons of money, please pay attention while I prove my case!
short answer is NO YOU MOST LIKELY DON,T NEED a HIGH VOLUUM OIL SYSTEM BUT ITS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA! look at it this way, theres no way a high voluum oil pump can pump more oil through the engines oil passages than the voluum the clearances allow at the max pressure that is supplied by the pump, read the info below



ok lets look at a few things, pressure is the result of a resistance to flow , no matter how much oil is put out by the oil pump there is almost no pressure unless there is a resistance to that oil flow and the main resistance is from oil trying to flow through the bearing surface clearances and once the pumps output pressure exceeds the engines ability to accept the oilflow at the max pressure the oil return system/bypass spring allows the oil circles back through the pump ,now the amount of oil flow necessary to reach the furthest parts in the engine from the oil pump does not go up in direct relation to rpm, but it instead increases with rpm at a steadly increaseing rate that increases faster than the engine rpm due to centrifugal force draining the oil from the rods as they swing faster and faster since energy increases with the square of the velocity the rate of oil use goes up quite a bit faster due to the greatly increased (G-FORCES) pulling oil from the rod bearings over 5000rpm going to 8000rpm than the rate of oil flow increases from 2000 rpm to 5000rpm (the same 3000rpm spread) and remember the often stated (10 lbs per 1000rpm)needs to be measured at the furthest rod and main bearing from the pump not at the pump itself, next lets look at the oil flow itself, you have about 5-6 quarts in an average small block now the valve covers never get and hold more than about 1/3 to 2/3 of a quart each even at 8000 rpm (high speed photography by SMOKEY YUNICK doing stock car engine research with clear plastic valve covers prove that from what Ive read) theres about 1 quart in the lifter gallery at max and theres about 1 quart in the filter and in the oil passages in the block, that leaves at least 2 quarts in the pan at all times and for those that want to tell me about oil wrapped around the crankshaft at high rpms try squirting oil on a spinning surface doing even 2000rpm (yes thats right its thrown off as fast as it hits by centrifugal force, yes its possiable for the crankshaft WITHOUT A WINDAGE SCREEN to keep acting like a propeler and pulling oil around with it in the crank case but thats what the wrap around style milodon type windage screen is designed to stop)the only way to run out of oil is to start with less than 4 quarts or to plug the oil return passages in the lifter gallery with sludge or gasket material! now add a good windage tray and a crank scrapper and almost all the oil is returned to the sump as it enters the area of the spinning crankshaft! forming a more or less endless supply to the oil pump, BTW almost all pro teams now use DRY SUMP SYSTEMS WITH POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT GERATOR PUMPS that are 3,4,or 5 stage pumps each section of which has more voluum than a standard voluum oil pump because its been found total oil control is necessary at high rpms to keep bearings cool and lubed

NOW I POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT IT NEEDs REPEATING
ok look at it this way,what your trying to do here is keep an pressureized oil film on the surface of all the bearings to lube and cool them and have enough oil spraying from the rod and main bearing clearances to lube the cam and cylinder walls/rings. now a standard pump does a good job up to 5000rpm and 400 hp but above 6000rpm and 400hp the bearings are under more stress and need more oilflow to cool and because the pressure on the bearings is greater you need higher pressures to maintain that oilfilm.lets look at the flow verus pressure curve. [b]since oil is a liquid its non-compressable and flow will increase with rpm up to the point where the bypass circuit starts to re-route the excess flow at the point were the pressure exceeds the bypass spring pressure. but the voluum will be equal to the pumps sweep voluum times the rpm of the pump, since the high voluum pump has a sweep voluum 1.3-1.5 times the standard pump voluum it will push 1.3-1.5 times the voluum of oil up to the bypass cicuit cut in point,that means that since the engine bearings leakage rate increases faster as the rpms increase because the clearances don,t change but the bleed off rate does that the amount of oil and the pressure that it is under will increase faster and reach the bypass circuit pressure faster with the high voluum pump. the advantage here is that the metal parts MUST be floated on that oil film to keep the metal parts from touching/wearing and the more leakage points the oil flows by the less the voluum of oil thats available for each leakage point beyond it and as the oil heats up it becomes easier to push through the clearences.now as the rpms and cylinder preasures increase in your goal to add power the loads trying to squeeze that oil out of those clearances also increase. ALL mods that increase power either increase rpms,cylinder preasures or reduce friction or mechanical losses. there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard chevy engine.
16 lifter to push rod points
16 pushrod to rocker arm points
32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends
10 main bearing edges
9 cam bearing edges
16 rod bearing edges
2 distributor shaft leaks
1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.)
so the more oil voluum the better,(AS LONG AS ITS TOTALLY UNDER CONTROL ON BOTH THE PRESSURE AND RETURN/SCAVAGEING SIDES OF THE SYSTEMchevy did an excelent job in the design but as the stresses increase the cooling voluum of the extra oil available from the larger pump helps to prevent lubracation delivery failure, do you need a better pump below 5000rpm or 400hp (no) above that level the extra oil will definitely help possiable deficient oil flow and bearing cooling and a simple increase in pressure does not provide a big increase in voluum that may be necessary to keep that oil film in the correct places at the correct voluum at all times.the stock system was designed for a 265cid engine in a passenger car turning a max of about 6000 rpm but only haveing the stress of under 300hp transmitted to the bearings, Im sure the orriginal designers never thought that the sbc or bbc would someday be asked to on occasion hold up to 450-800hp and 6000-8000 rpm.nore did they forsee valvesprings that placed 500lbs and up loads on the lifters and the use of over 9 to 1 compression ratios in the original design so the oil voluums and pressures necessary to cool those valve springs and bearings at those stress levels were never taken into account for that either.


the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the engine clearances allow at the max pressure that the oil pump bye -pass circuit will allow, and no more. for your idea to be correct (which it could be under some conditions)the oil flow through the engine clearances would need to be so great that the pump turning at 3500rpm,7000rpm engine speed(remember the pump spins 1/2 the speed the crank does)and most likely pumping at max pressure could lower the oil level to the point that the pick-up becomes uncovered or a vortex as you call it forms and the pump starts sucking air.

now under hard acceleration it is very possiable for the pickup on ANY oil pump to to become uncovered in a oil pan that has less than 5qt capacity and with no oil control baffles as the oil rushes to the rear of the oil pan if the pick-up is located in mid pan or under hard brakeing if the pick-up is located at the rear of the pan on a non- oil baffle controlled pan.

I will grant you that it is possiable for ANY oil pump to pump a good amount of oil into the lifter gallery at high rpms IF THE OIL RETURN PASSAGES IN THE HEADS AND LIFTER GALLERY ARE BLOCKED, preventing its normal return to the crankcase

, but running a high volume oil pump will have little or nothing to do with how much oil is in the pan if the engines drain back holes are clear and your useing a milodon style windage screen. I have several times had that same complaint about lack of oil pressure under acceleration but it is caused by a non-baffled pan or the pickup mounted so close to the pan bottom that the pump cant get a good intake flow, if you carefully check youll find that on a dyno runs it seldom happens,because the oil is constantly removed by the windage screen is returned to the sump, most of the oil pumped into the system exits at the rod and main bearing clearances or at the cam bearings and from the lifter bores lower ends, its not the constant oil flow or lack of oil into the rocker arms that has the big effect on total oil flow as SMOKEY YUNICKS PHOTOGRAPIC RESEARCH PROVED YEARS AGO,its the oil flowing from the bearings and lifters and that oil flow is quickly returned to the sump by a windage screen scrapeing it off the spinning crank and rods as the spinning assembly passes over the windage screen. in effect most of the oil in an engine works like your timeing chain in that it constantly cycles top to botton and back never getting higher than the cam bearing lifter area.

now what does quite frequently happen is that the guys installing a high volume oil pump just swap out the standard pump, reinstall the stock or simular pick-up and bolt on the pan with the pick-up in the stock possition on the oil pump. the stock pick-up is mounted about 3/8" off the pan bottom,the high volume pump is normally equiped with impeller gears about .3 inches longer than stock, the high volume pump body is that much lower in the pan, resultting in the pick-up being to close to the pan
1racerdude is offline  
Old 07-14-2006, 05:37 PM
  #45  
Banned
 
1racerdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: new engine running...now I have questions

High Volume Pumps: Advantages, Myths & Fables

Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump.

The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing.

A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter.

The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine.

Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster.

That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do.

1. It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out.

2. It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top.

3. It will not wear out distributor gears. The load on the gear is directly related to the resistance to flow. Oil pressure is the measure of resistance to flow. The Ford 427 FE "side oiler" used a pump with relief valve set at 125 psi and it used a standard distributor gear. Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment.

4. It will not cause foaming of the oil. With any oil pump, the excess oil not needed by the engine is recirculated within the pump. Any additional foaming is usually created by revving the engine higher. The oil thrown from the rod bearings is going faster and causes the foaming. This is why high performance engines use a windage tray.

5. It will not cause spark scatter. Because of the pump pressure there is a load on the distributor gear. The number of teeth on the oil pump gears determine the number of impulses per revolution of the pump. In a SB Chevy there are seven teeth on each gear giving 14 impulses per revolution. At 6000 RPM the oil pump is turning 3000 RPM or 50 revolutions per second. To have an effect on the distributor, these impulses would have to vibrate the distributor gear through an intermediate shaft that has loose connections at both ends. Spark scatter is usually caused by weak springs in the points or dust inside the distributor cap.


High volume pumps can be a big advantage if used where needed. If installed in an engine that does not need the additional volume, they will not create a problem. The additional flow will be recirculated within the pump.



Copyright © 2003 Melling Engine Parts
1racerdude is offline  


Quick Reply: new engine running...now I have questions



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:31 PM.