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#18
I've found Seco to be pretty cheap. It's a small local chain in Alabama. The website kinda sucks, but their catalog is pretty good and they can order about anything. I just bought a B&M shifter for $150, and Thunder wanted $180. They also have SFC's for about 30 chaper than Thunder. I would check them out. They know their stuff.
secoperformance.com
secoperformance.com
#19
depending on what you're looking for...You can get your bolt-on's and a mild cam, like an xe210 or 214 and run solid mid/high 12's
or throw a larger cam with heads and run low 12's easy.
As for me I'll be happy saving money by not getting the heads done and running mid 12's with a cam only and using the money I saved for a turbo or supercharger build up.
or throw a larger cam with heads and run low 12's easy.
As for me I'll be happy saving money by not getting the heads done and running mid 12's with a cam only and using the money I saved for a turbo or supercharger build up.
#20
Bolt ons alone can get you mid 12's. Heads/cam packages easy mid 11's. Great cars, but as with every car out there they have their down falls. Only one i don't like is the design of the disributor which is called an opti spark on the lt1 cars. They sit right behind/below the water pump so when it starts to leak it take out the opti. Its really not that big of a deal, a couple hours of work and your back on the road.
#21
Will running 11's on the stock rear end be a wise decision? what is the most HP the stock rear end can take? I was at the track one time with my club and this older TA went down the track and the rear passenger side wheel came off the car with a rod where it came out of the axle came off with it. What could have happened? Could he have had a weak axle or something?
#22
It's not so much of a matter of how much HP the stock rear can take, as it is a matter of how hard a launch it can take. Some people can get them to hold up to a 1.6X short time, but it will turn itself into a hand grenade most likely after just a couple of launches like that. The A4's are much easier on them than the M6's are. The stock 7.5" rear just isn't sturdy enough to handle a really sticky hard launch.
#23
about how much would it cost and where would I look to get a stronger rear end?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm definitely new to the muscle car scene and RWD to be completely honest. I could tell you absolutely EVERYTHING you would need to do to get a Honda/Mitsubishi/Toyota etc... into the 11/12's, but when it comes to American cars, I'm definitely a newbie!
Sorry for all the questions, I'm definitely new to the muscle car scene and RWD to be completely honest. I could tell you absolutely EVERYTHING you would need to do to get a Honda/Mitsubishi/Toyota etc... into the 11/12's, but when it comes to American cars, I'm definitely a newbie!
#24
Well, the best bet is to not even deal with a stock rear, and go straight for a 12 bolt (8.5" I believe) or a Ford 9" rear. Either setup will end up running you approximately $2500 when it's all said and done, but you'll have a bulletproof rear also.
As for finding one, just check any of the popular places such as Thunderracing, Tbyrnemotorsports, Speed Inc., More Performance, ect.
As for finding one, just check any of the popular places such as Thunderracing, Tbyrnemotorsports, Speed Inc., More Performance, ect.
#27
I found a 1996 Camaro Z28 with 64K miles, it's manual, were they 5 or 6 speed in that year? The guy wants $7000 and he's pretty firm on it, is that a good price? The car seems to be in excellent shape and it's completely stock. This weekend I am going to drive it.
#28
All the 4th Gen V8 cars with the manual are six speed. For a 96 that's in really good shape, 7K seems like a decent price. Just check for oil leaks, drive the car while the engine is fully warm. If it cuts out, you may have an opti problem. Check the fender wells at the rear wheels for rubber chunks (burnouts), basically, go over the car with a fine tooth comb.
#29
Ditto on the fine-tooth comb check. A little summary/reference:
(People correct me if I'm wrong)
-Cat-back exhaust: ~$300-500
-Cold air intake: ???? (typical CAI price, probably same as imports.. 250?)
-Jet Hot LT1 long tube headers: ~$565 shipped (Don't settle for shorty headers)
-Some kind of Y-pipe, prices vary here.
-Cam and valve springs: ~$800 for everything
-Good heads (AFR's are popular): ~$2500
-Moser or Strange 12-bolt rear: ~$2200-2500 (depending on the options you pick)
-52mm or 58mm throttle body (Holley or BBK)
This setup (with some Mickey Thompson ET Streets) should put you roughly in the high 11's. Some other things you WILL want:
-Short throw shifter: $170 (Get the Pro 5.0 or B&M)
-New clutch (hope you're sitting down): Star/Spec or Centerforce: ~$515-525, McLeod Street Twin: $800 or so
-Subframe connectors: ~$130 from BMR Fabrication or Kenny Brown or whoever - These stiffen the chassis by connecting the front subframe to the rear subframe, preventing chassis flex, etc, which is common in the F-bodies.
-Programming and a "LT4 knock module" for the stock computer.
Things NOT to buy:
-Skip shift eliminator (just do this with programming or the "free" way).
-Aftermarket MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor (stocker should be fine, this is often a heated debate here)... pull the screen out if you feel it necessary.
-Resistor mods, hypertech programmers, or "chips."
Seeing as you're in the import scene, you might be into lowering and big wheels, which is cool (17" n lowered here), but keep in mind that it will hurt your track performance and you will see higher ET's than someone with a factory suspension setup and 16" wheels. Removing your front sway bar will also help you launch at the track.
I believe I've saved you much, much homework. Let us know how the car shopping comes along.
Also, I like the 93-97 body style better too. Looks meaner.
Good luck,
JR
(People correct me if I'm wrong)
-Cat-back exhaust: ~$300-500
-Cold air intake: ???? (typical CAI price, probably same as imports.. 250?)
-Jet Hot LT1 long tube headers: ~$565 shipped (Don't settle for shorty headers)
-Some kind of Y-pipe, prices vary here.
-Cam and valve springs: ~$800 for everything
-Good heads (AFR's are popular): ~$2500
-Moser or Strange 12-bolt rear: ~$2200-2500 (depending on the options you pick)
-52mm or 58mm throttle body (Holley or BBK)
This setup (with some Mickey Thompson ET Streets) should put you roughly in the high 11's. Some other things you WILL want:
-Short throw shifter: $170 (Get the Pro 5.0 or B&M)
-New clutch (hope you're sitting down): Star/Spec or Centerforce: ~$515-525, McLeod Street Twin: $800 or so
-Subframe connectors: ~$130 from BMR Fabrication or Kenny Brown or whoever - These stiffen the chassis by connecting the front subframe to the rear subframe, preventing chassis flex, etc, which is common in the F-bodies.
-Programming and a "LT4 knock module" for the stock computer.
Things NOT to buy:
-Skip shift eliminator (just do this with programming or the "free" way).
-Aftermarket MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor (stocker should be fine, this is often a heated debate here)... pull the screen out if you feel it necessary.
-Resistor mods, hypertech programmers, or "chips."
Seeing as you're in the import scene, you might be into lowering and big wheels, which is cool (17" n lowered here), but keep in mind that it will hurt your track performance and you will see higher ET's than someone with a factory suspension setup and 16" wheels. Removing your front sway bar will also help you launch at the track.
I believe I've saved you much, much homework. Let us know how the car shopping comes along.
Also, I like the 93-97 body style better too. Looks meaner.
Good luck,
JR
#30
if i had an afr headed motor that only went high 11's i would blow the car up. You should be able to run much fast with the setup you listed espicaly if you use a custom ground cam to work well with the flow numbers of the heads.