No teeth on the Oil drive gear...Ouch...
07-12-2006, 12:13 PM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: In The Engine Room
Posts: 948
Re: No teeth on the Oil drive gear...Ouch...
Originally Posted by 1racerdude
They do work well.
Ya need bigger clearances than most put in an engine to need it. A stock rebuild don't need one.
I like clearance so on a HP build I will run 2/2.5 on the rods 2.5/3.0 on the mains and most people don't build them that way. It has worked for me for a number of years so I will stick with those sizes.
The load to drive a BB pump is more than a SB pump due to the size of the gears but have run them in sprint car engines with a bronze gear for several years and have not had a failure. That same bronze gear is driving the mag and fuel pump also so I don't know what the problem is with the LT1 steel gears. Could be an alignment issue with where the cam is sitting, front to rear,don't know. It also could be a material compatibility issue. It also may be a lube issue to support the extra load. I always cut a groove in the bottom fit to allow pressure oiling to squirt on the cam gear.
Some are destroying the rear cam lobes on stock cams so the lube issue may be valid. Splash oiling may not be enough for the extra load.
Ya need bigger clearances than most put in an engine to need it. A stock rebuild don't need one.
I like clearance so on a HP build I will run 2/2.5 on the rods 2.5/3.0 on the mains and most people don't build them that way. It has worked for me for a number of years so I will stick with those sizes.
The load to drive a BB pump is more than a SB pump due to the size of the gears but have run them in sprint car engines with a bronze gear for several years and have not had a failure. That same bronze gear is driving the mag and fuel pump also so I don't know what the problem is with the LT1 steel gears. Could be an alignment issue with where the cam is sitting, front to rear,don't know. It also could be a material compatibility issue. It also may be a lube issue to support the extra load. I always cut a groove in the bottom fit to allow pressure oiling to squirt on the cam gear.
Some are destroying the rear cam lobes on stock cams so the lube issue may be valid. Splash oiling may not be enough for the extra load.
I'm in a habit, and always have been that these drive gears need to be replaced with a new build. I treat the issue the same as lifters, I wouldn't re-use high mileage lifters with a new cam and certainly not going to use a high mileage drive gear either.
Ah well thats my .02 on the matter.
07-12-2006, 12:26 PM
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: No teeth on the Oil drive gear...Ouch...
Another thing to look at is the Comp Polymer gears. It takes some creativity to run them and I could have made a billet gear drive setup that would work with them, but the markey isin't there since the price for the whole setup would be about 8-10 times as much as a new one from GM.
Bret
Bret
07-12-2006, 12:28 PM
#18
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: In The Engine Room
Posts: 948
Re: No teeth on the Oil drive gear...Ouch...
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Another thing to look at is the Comp Polymer gears. It takes some creativity to run them and I could have made a billet gear drive setup that would work with them, but the markey isin't there since the price for the whole setup would be about 8-10 times as much as a new one from GM.
Bret
Bret
Exactly, I had thought of swapping the gears to something more intense myself but the cost to benefit ratio just wasn't there.
07-12-2006, 12:34 PM
#19
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: LA (lower Alabama)
Posts: 6,661
Re: No teeth on the Oil drive gear...Ouch...
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Another thing to look at is the Comp Polymer gears. It takes some creativity to run them and I could have made a billet gear drive setup that would work with them, but the markey isin't there since the price for the whole setup would be about 8-10 times as much as a new one from GM.
Bret
Bret
I have been using the Crower bronze gear for years as I have chewed up the MSD and several other bronze gears. Crower's is made out of a different alloy than the others and has a real high wear factor.
I get a local shop to duplicate the plastic gear assy in aluminum and put little needle bearings in it to run a real gear and shaft. The thing costs 200+ dollars but the piece of mind is great.
Last edited by 1racerdude; 07-12-2006 at 12:36 PM.
07-12-2006, 01:29 PM
#20
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: No teeth on the Oil drive gear...Ouch...
Originally Posted by 1racerdude
Have ya tried the "plastic" gear? does it work?
I have been using the Crower bronze gear for years as I have chewed up the MSD and several other bronze gears. Crower's is made out of a different alloy than the others and has a real high wear factor.
I get a local shop to duplicate the plastic gear assy in aluminum and put little needle bearings in it to run a real gear and shaft. The thing costs 200+ dollars but the piece of mind is great.
I have been using the Crower bronze gear for years as I have chewed up the MSD and several other bronze gears. Crower's is made out of a different alloy than the others and has a real high wear factor.
I get a local shop to duplicate the plastic gear assy in aluminum and put little needle bearings in it to run a real gear and shaft. The thing costs 200+ dollars but the piece of mind is great.
I'm not worried about the rest of it, but the shaft diameter in the oil pump drive is too small for the composite gears, so you would have to make a new shaft and either fix the oil pump drive housing or just crank one out on a CNC machine in a few parts.
When you run a real intake going to something like a oil pump drive from a crank trigger motor makes life easier.
Bret
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