Normal burnout lenght from a stop?
#17
I had a 93 A4 w/ 107k and if the car was straight and I power braked it and stomped on it, it would burn out for maybe 10 yards and hook. It had catback,intake,1.6rr's, cutout. Once of the cylinders was a little low on compression and it burned oil even after replacing valve stems. You probably have low compression, from old rings. W/ my 96 lt1 m6 w/ 35k on it will smoke the **** out of the tires until the 1-2 shift.
I'd do a full tuneup: new plugs/wires/air filter then see if it can light em up.
I'd do a full tuneup: new plugs/wires/air filter then see if it can light em up.
Your tellin me, if I knew I could do them myself they would of been in there months ago.
#18
I have an A4 too and was dealing with the same issue as you.. I found that I had really just not been putting my pedal to the metal fast enough if you just mash it it'll EASILY burn out (I had 3.23s but I would think your 2.73's would still break em loose).
Getting a converter and flashing it made hard launches MUCH more challening. I wouls imaine gears would have a similar effect
Getting a converter and flashing it made hard launches MUCH more challening. I wouls imaine gears would have a similar effect
#19
I have an A4 too and was dealing with the same issue as you.. I found that I had really just not been putting my pedal to the metal fast enough if you just mash it it'll EASILY burn out (I had 3.23s but I would think your 2.73's would still break em loose).
Getting a converter and flashing it made hard launches MUCH more challening. I wouls imaine gears would have a similar effect
Getting a converter and flashing it made hard launches MUCH more challening. I wouls imaine gears would have a similar effect
#21
FWIW...
My 3.42-geared LS1 M6 will only burn the tires on the street for a few feet before it hooks and takes off, unless I do a 2500rpm+ clutch dump and/or use the brakes. I have a dyno graph and a 107mph timeslip that say I'm not down on power, and some pretty expensive street tires (Eagle F1 GS-D3's).
Incidentally, if I do the clutch dump and use the brakes, it'll pretty much go on for as long as I want it to.
My 3.42-geared LS1 M6 will only burn the tires on the street for a few feet before it hooks and takes off, unless I do a 2500rpm+ clutch dump and/or use the brakes. I have a dyno graph and a 107mph timeslip that say I'm not down on power, and some pretty expensive street tires (Eagle F1 GS-D3's).
Incidentally, if I do the clutch dump and use the brakes, it'll pretty much go on for as long as I want it to.
#23
when mine was stock i had 2.73's in it and it wouldnt spin the best either. sometimes it would but most times it wouldnt. unless you started doing a burnout n then let the brake go lol. i put 3.73's in and it was like night and day. it would sit still if you floored it until it hit 2nd
#26
Already did a full tune up, msd 8.5 wires, ngk plugs (gapped correctly) and cai.
There could be lots of things, but on my Z with a CAI and cutout exhaust I could burn the tires from a 15mph roll. And if I just stabbed it from a stop it would spin into second, but my car had 3.23s and 245/50/16s that weren't all the good.
Good luck, but I think it just might be your gears and lack of boltons that are holding you back
#27
[QUOTE=turnin20s;4598875]Not really a "full" tune up IMHO, but its a start. Check your fuel pressure when the car is ideling, and tape the guage to the windshield and see what its at on a WOT run, then bring the car back and shut it off and see if the guage goes down alot. That would tell you if you have a bad fuel pressure regulator, pump, or a leaky injector. Also is your check engine light on? I know thats an obvious one, but I thought I'd just throw it out there. Get a scan tool or find someone who has one and have them run a scan on your car and see if anything is wrong.
There could be lots of things, but on my Z with a CAI and cutout exhaust I could burn the tires from a 15mph roll. And if I just stabbed it from a stop it would spin into second, but my car had 3.23s and 245/50/16s that weren't all the good.
Good luck, but I think it just might be your gears and lack of boltons that are holding you back[/QUOT
i agree
There could be lots of things, but on my Z with a CAI and cutout exhaust I could burn the tires from a 15mph roll. And if I just stabbed it from a stop it would spin into second, but my car had 3.23s and 245/50/16s that weren't all the good.
Good luck, but I think it just might be your gears and lack of boltons that are holding you back[/QUOT
i agree
#28
If you're spinning the tires, you need stickier tires!
MT ET Street Drag Radials!!!!
But yeah, you may have trans problems, the engine may be tired, and the 2.73s ain't helping at all, nor is the stock converter.
MT ET Street Drag Radials!!!!
But yeah, you may have trans problems, the engine may be tired, and the 2.73s ain't helping at all, nor is the stock converter.
#29
Unless you're in the burnout box at the track I think its pointless to spin the tires. If you're not spinning but the car feels like its accelerating just fine then I would have to think that is a good thing. That would mean that you are putting the power to the ground instead of wasting it on useless tire smoke. I don't know what suspension mods you have but when I had 4.10's, LCA's, Reloc. brackets, and street tires I would only spin maybe 50 ft before it would grab and finish pulling me thru first gear. Then it would only chirp 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Now that I have the rest of the suspension setup I can't wait to see how the car will hook. Just as some of the other posts have suggested I would make sure that my engine was in proper tune before I would worry about not being able to smoke the tires.