LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

normal wheelspin from a roll

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Old 02-22-2004, 11:31 AM
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normal wheelspin from a roll

It's FINALLY time to get a firebird!!!!!!!!!!!! My beater started putting gas fumes into the car, so I can't put it off any longer. I was trying to put it off until august when out new contract will be voted on, but you can tell I was only doing that out of a sense of responsibility. Definitely NOT heartbroken over not waiting!!!!
Yesterday I drove a 96 WS6 6 speedwith edelbrock cat-back and K&N filter.It also has 275/40s. No headers. I don't know what other mods it has. Probably none, because I also drove a 2001 TA convertible auto right after that, and it had less torque but was a lot faster past 3000 rpm, which is what I would expect if both engines were fairly stock.
From a 10 or 15 mph steady speed (not accelerating, just going steady in 1st) I punched it and had th car fish tailing for about 50 feet. Maybe it was a little less, but it seemed like that far and MAN WAS THAT FUN!!!!!!! I did it from 15 or 20, same way, and got a little spin but no fishtailing. Still nice that it could do that with 275s. I was getting ready to pull back into the dealership and mentioned that it would probably burn them pretty good from a stop, but didn't really need to do it. The guy (whose name is John Wayne, by the way) says, "Take it back over there. Do it." He said that to the wrong guy. We went back out, I ran it up, let out the clutch and burned rubber all over the place. The car handled very well. It would fishtail right, then left, then right, then back again, but never became uncontrollable or even eemed like it might become uncontrollable. Just a WHOLE LOT of fun. There's nothing like thrashing a dealerships car, especially when the salesman is egging you on.
So back to my question, is that normal for an lt1 with those mods? Also, are all edelbrock cat-backs that loud? It was way louder that I would have expected.
I'm not buying that car, because even though it only has 57000 mile, I don't want to pay 11,800. It's negotiable, but still. THere isn't room for a snake to work its way through that engine bay, and the ls1 have a lot more potential to make power without getting into the heads and such. Is there more room under the hood of an ls1? I didn't think to look. I am between getting an older lt1 for 5000 or so, and getting an ls1 but paying a lot more. I might get the lt1 and keep it until the contract goes through, then get the ls1. What do you all think?
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Old 02-22-2004, 11:46 AM
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Well, good luck in your shopping.

They both suck under the hood,
I would think that the pavment, and hte condition of the tires have LOTS to do with the fishtailing at speeds, I've had 3 different brands of 275 40R17 rubber, and I can tell you, one I could do that, the others I couldnt as much, but they gripped pretty good, but I could still roast them when ever I wanted to.

There is no doubt that the LS1 is more potent, but its also more money, and more to insure. thats really what it comes down to.

But I wouldnt trade my SS for a LS1 Camaro, maybe a WS6.
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:25 PM
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The street was clean. No obvious grease or even dust. It was a little-used side street. The tires had about 1/2 of the tread left.
When you say you could roast them whenever you wanted to, what exactly did you mean? What is the highest speed you can break them loose in the way that I did with that car? Is you car close to stock?
Thanks for the info. I appreciate the help. I just need to see what I should expect.
What should I look at when I check these cars out? Anything about the lt1 in particular? I'm going to look at a few today. I have bought a lot of cars in the past, so it's been a while. All I remember is to check the oil and radiator and to listen for wierd noises.
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:32 PM
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Originally posted by gasnmyveins
The street was clean. No obvious grease or even dust. It was a little-used side street. The tires had about 1/2 of the tread left.
When you say you could roast them whenever you wanted to, what exactly did you mean? What is the highest speed you can break them loose in the way that I did with that car? Is you car close to stock?
Thanks for the info. I appreciate the help. I just need to see what I should expect.
What should I look at when I check these cars out? Anything about the lt1 in particular? I'm going to look at a few today. I have bought a lot of cars in the past, so it's been a while. All I remember is to check the oil and radiator and to listen for wierd noises.
well what I mean is some streets spin easier then others, up here we have lots of rubberized ashfault, and that stuff grips like crazy. but normal pavement I can spin 2nd at 40kmph if I drop the clutch.

My car is stock, and dynoed 250 rwhp and 288rwtq yesterday.

both my cars I bought with REALLY low milage, my white SS has 17k miles, and I put 2k of htem on driving it home from dallas.
(for refference I paid 12500 USD for it) and its mint, if I didnt know it was driven I would say it wasnt.
and my red one had 59xxxkm on it, and I paid 19000 CDN for it.

Just check the normal things, make sure it drives nice. It seems like the LT1s are good, and if something is wrong you REALLY know it. might not know what it is, but you will know something is wrong.

Both my cars were stock, well exhaust on the red one, but completly stock on my white one.
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:40 PM
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There's a few problems LT1's are notorious for.

Check for an intake manifold leak by reaching your hand over the top of the engine and feeling the very back for oil. If your hand comes out oily, you don't want it.

Let the car run for a while then at idle, open the oil fill cap. If there's small clouds of smoke billowing from the cap you don't want it.

Sit yourself behind the car when it's idling. It should smell clean if you know what I mean.

Take off the oil fill cap again, look for a brownish red color on the inside of the cap. Also, smell the cap. If it had a burnt, almost sweet smell you don't want it. If either of these are apparent you've got water in your oil which probably means a blown head gasket or a cracked block.

Slowly and smoothly run her all the way up nearly redline. There shouldn't be any backfiring or weird drop offs in power up top. If there is you've probably got yourself an opti that's about to go out on you or simply bad ignition components.

Obviously check the oil pressure. Let it just sit and idle for ten mintues or so after already being warmed up. Watch the temp guage, check to see it stays away from redline.

Assuming the car is an M6, put it in first gear, while she's idling. Keep the clutch pushed in and your foot off the brake. Make sure you're on a level surface. Hold this for about 40 seconds. The car shouldn't move at all. If it starts creeping forward you've got hydrolics problems having to do with your clutch.

Check your master cylinder fluid, brake fluid, coolant level, and obviously oil.

Lastly ask when the waterpump and opti had last been changed. They have a tendency to go out together. Oh and if you can crawl under the car and look for an oil leak. If it's bad you will be able to see the front portion of the tranny layered in oil.

Almost forgot. Check the entire engine bay for rub throughs.

Well I think that should about do it. Good luck!

Last edited by terlox; 02-22-2004 at 12:43 PM.
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