350350

Did you try the ****???

I still haven't been able to get under mine, but am also wondering where the harness splits off to power all the above listed things on the circuit, in other words, where under the hood should I look for the 'split' that goes to the trans???

Back in the old days we would just take a hack saw to the whole mess, let it blow the fuses, put a Holley 4-Barrel on it, a non-computer HEI, and forget the whole mess. And get 8mpg.

Guest47904

The break out point as you refer to it is known as splice (S104) shown in the schematic on on page 8A-11-14. Page 8A-11-20 lists its location as 22 cm from where the engine harness splits to the transmission.

The easiest way to find it is work backwards from the transmission breakout up to the engine harness. Then back up a little more. Or go backwards from each device listed.

However the most common reason for blowing that fuse is an O2 wire touching a hot exhaust pipe. See it all the time.

350350

Just wanted to plop down a quick update, I had a few minutes to get the car up in the air and look it over today:

*I unplugged everything on the 20amp fuse circuit in question, one at a time, until all listed above were unplugged at the same time, and each time it still blew the fuse.

*I checked all the wiring for obvious damage, as noted by other replies above, like a burnt O2 sensor wire on the exhaust, etc., and everything looks good, is still routed away from rubbing/burning things, etc.

*So I'm assuming Im back to tracing said pink wire to find the short, or at least disconnecting it to find the general area it's bad, and rerouting.

Also I wanted to tell a story about blowing fuses, that a buddy Rodney used to tell me:

Back when cars had the old 'glass tube' fuses, it was a shadetree thing to replace them with a 1/4" bolt when you were sick of replacing them. Rodney said:

"I don't even mess with fuses anymore. If one keeps blowing, I put a bolt in place of it, wait for smoke to start rolling, and follow the smoke to find the shorted wire."

Sadly, it worked well for me several times when I was sick of tracing wires.

I think Rodney died in prison. Not sure.

Injuneer

If the pink wire is shorted to ground, you should be able to verify it by measuring the resistance between the pink wire and ground, at the connector. If the resistance is "0", there's a short. If the resistance is very high, its not shorted. You could do that for the +12V wire in every connector.

350350

I'm just finally getting back to the Camaro... Sadly it's my 'econo' car and gets about double the mileage the K5 gets, so it's time to get it back on the road.

I found the short in my harness, it was about 'halfway up' the segment that T's off above the driver's side head, and splits down the driver's side of the transmission, powering the O2 sensors, skip shift, and other miscellaneous stuff on that side.

In my case, the short was in the pink wire (Injuneer wins the prize... will pm you some of my favorite **** links...) about a foot up the harness from the skip shift connector. It was 'nicked' and looks like something may have hopped up from the road, it really didn't look like it had worn through as wires and harnesses do where they rub slowly through over years. The black conduit was nicked as well as the pink wire and it was shorting to the transmission tunnel.

It still runs like a Mustang II though, which I suppose I should expect since I still have everything on that circuit (MAF, O2's, EGR, etc...) unplugged and all the ductwork off the intake. I'll probably put it back together and fix the wiring before I start the next project.

Which is the clutch.

And the driver's side power window motor.

Not sure which is more annoying to live with.