Oil and water don't mix
#1
Oil and water don't mix
Anyone ever have this same problem? I found water in my oil (I am going to drain and let settle today to be sure), which is new, but over the month I have seen a milky thick residue in my radiator when I pulled the cap off. I wasn't sure what is was caused by so I continued to monitor it. The temp never went up and oil pressure never went down. I just happened to check the oil level yesterday and noticed water deposits near the blow-by on top of the pass side valve cover. Any ideas? Blown head gasket? easy seal fix somewhere? Thanks.
#3
Re: Oil and water don't mix
a milkshake in your motor is almost always a blown head gasket
with 1st gen small block chevys it could be an intake manifold gasket, but since lt1's have a dry manifold, its def the head gasket
with 1st gen small block chevys it could be an intake manifold gasket, but since lt1's have a dry manifold, its def the head gasket
#4
Re: Oil and water don't mix
The real headscratcher is that the milkshake is in the radiator, not on the dipstick. When I take the cap of the radiator, looks like a rootbeer float.
#5
Re: Oil and water don't mix
Well, I drained the oil and water, too bad it was from the same place, the oil pan. Tons of water. Anyone have a good lead on a 383 stroker crate motor? I'd like to change out with that package. Please let me know if anyone has done such a change and how much $$ was spent. Since I am going that route, anyone have an opinion on lightweight flywheel and any particular clutch to go with it? Thanks alot guys.
#6
Re: Oil and water don't mix
I'm with the majority. Blown head gasket. It will still seep oil into your cooling also. Check out Golen engine service for LT1 383 packages. Chad is a good guy. I had him build my 383 to what i wanted but he has base 383's that put up good power also. I'm sure Victory will chime in here at some point with 383 options also. How much you want to spend all depends on what you want to put in it and how fast you want to go. I would side on the side of stronger and future mods if you can afford it. As for clutches, i'm a Street Twin guy myself cause i need strong and grippy and it's still streetable, but you'll pay for it. They have an aluminum FW option also. You have other options for clutches that may be better suited for lower HP applications too that would still be well suited for what you want to do and still hold up good. If your gonna go big power though, i'd go Street Twin.
Ken R.
Ken R.
#7
Re: Oil and water don't mix
Thanks Ken. Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I don't want to do it twice. I am trying to put some good numbers under the hood but still stay street. I am only guessing here but looking at somewhere in the mid 300's for hp. I figure that much is fun, affordable and anything more may force me to go after a new drivetrain. I know I could probably get a 350/350 but I have heard nothing but good out of a 383 stroker. I am doing my best to stay under $5k total (flywheel, clutch, etc....) Any ideas??
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dbusch22
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10-31-2016 11:09 AM