96LT1TX

Ok, I have checked a lot of different things, and here is my conclusion; please tell me if you agree. I have cleaned the tps ,maf, and Idle air sensor(think thats what its called), scanned the computer, taken off the catalytic converters, fuel pressure reads fine (45 or so under load, 38 when you take foot off gas), The motor is built right, cam is not a tooth off. The spark plugs are very fouled, and no matter what, all signs lead to opti.
The problem is, at idle it idles a tad rough, with a little bit of bounce to it (maybe up to 1200rpms, idles around 975, tuned to idle at 875). There is no obvious problems in neutral in the garage, other than a slight delay in when you step on the gas more than 1/4 throttle or so (rpm drops, then raises a second or so later) but as soon as I put the thing under load and more importantly ONLY at 2000rpms (or if givew it gas through the 200 rpm stumble, 3000rpms) the whole motor loses all fuel/spark and power (feels as if you took your foot completely off the gas, but the fuel pressure stays around idle FP) and it basically feels about to stall. If I keep the gas pedal constant (around 1/4 throttle) in 1st gear it goes up to 2000rpms, loses power, goes down to 1500rpms, accelerates back to 2000rpms, and goes back down to 1500rpms..... again and again.

If this is not opti I am at a loss because I havent even felt this car under load yet and I really need to for my freshly started 383 (6 miles).

Anyone have any thoughts/something I havent checked yet?
I can check the O2s tomorrow by somehow driving it to get it scanned, but only if this really is strongly possibly the WHOLE problem. If the O2s arent the MAIN problem then I will get them after the opti (I really think my O2s are fine, not more than 3 yrs old and less than 20k miles)

blown383

Go with the basics... check and see if the spark plug wires are in good condition and if they're routed correctly. Also check and see if your push rods are straight and if the rockers are lashed correctly.

-B

94CamaroZ28

New headers? If so, pull the O2s, you may notice the louvers in the sensor tip clogged.

96LT1TX

headers I have had for 5 years, and plug wires were re-routed yesterday (none touching header, or belt). The pushrods are 7.150 trickflows, I always had stock length pushrods on my last motor and bent like 6 when the motor blew up but they never gave me problems; just decided to go w/ the 7.150s to get the new motor broken in. The RRs are very close to perfect, that is why I had the cats on to hear the motor. I did them at least 4 times to get it perfect.

96LT1TX

Ok, if I get this car scanned and no codes are thrown doesn't that basically mean opti?

TobyZ28

I wish it was that easy Burnt wire wouldn't neccessarily throw a code. Maybe a wire got crossed on the opti? Sounds like its running rough in general. Not sayin its not the opti, but it wouldnt hurt to check those...

96LT1TX

if 2 plugs where crossed wouldn't it be a LOT worse? I will go recheck right now, but I am almost positive they are right because I ran 1 at a time, plugged it in, then ran the next. thanks for the reply

redneck01

vacuum lines? lose wire elsewhere? i had a burnt wire and 2 fouled plugs and had no engine light on. spark plug loose? or maybe a bad wire...i had a brand new msd wire that was dead and did the same on my 383 with the rough idle, etc.

96LT1TX

well the idle is quite normal, it is the 2000rpm thing that is the main problem. Sorry for the confusion, I am rechecking the plug wires anyway tonight, I wish there was a way to check the plug wires.