P0100 code, help plz
#1
P0100 code, help plz
Ok,
I have a 96Z28, mods are in sig. I had a problem a while back with a bad misfire, somehow I was lead to believe it was a bad MAF. I then replaced the MAF with a used/working one, to do that I cut the wires to the MAF since the plug looked loose I figured it was best to replace that too. Well the problem turned out to be a burnt plug wire, but now I have screwed up my MAF wiring. I originally had the wires connected with butt connectors but a mechanic told me to soder them together instead. I did that but I suspect one of the wires is peaking through a little bit.
Could this be where my code is still coming from?
Are the wires on that MAF that *finiky, to where it will still pop a code?
Can I just wrap electrical tape around it?
Sorry if this is long winded or stupid but I need to pass DEQ, and they wont even test it with service engine light on.
any help is much appreciated.
I have a 96Z28, mods are in sig. I had a problem a while back with a bad misfire, somehow I was lead to believe it was a bad MAF. I then replaced the MAF with a used/working one, to do that I cut the wires to the MAF since the plug looked loose I figured it was best to replace that too. Well the problem turned out to be a burnt plug wire, but now I have screwed up my MAF wiring. I originally had the wires connected with butt connectors but a mechanic told me to soder them together instead. I did that but I suspect one of the wires is peaking through a little bit.
Could this be where my code is still coming from?
Are the wires on that MAF that *finiky, to where it will still pop a code?
Can I just wrap electrical tape around it?
Sorry if this is long winded or stupid but I need to pass DEQ, and they wont even test it with service engine light on.
any help is much appreciated.
#2
P0100 indicates the MAF reading is not changing between successive reads - it is static for at least 4 consecutive reads. A possible problem is loss of 12V power supply. Measure the voltage from the pink wire (battery voltage) to the black/white stripe (engine ground) wire. Should be 12V. In the 97's its not unusual for the pink wire to break somewhere deep in the harness bundle. But that doesn't seem to happen as often on the 96's.
If you have 12V between the pink and the black/white wire (can be measured with the sensor unplugged), reconnect and measure the frequency between the yellow wire and the black/white wire. Should be around 2,500Hz at idle. Frequency should change as you move the throttle blades. Many low $ multi-meters now include a frequency counter.
If you have 12V between the pink and the black/white wire (can be measured with the sensor unplugged), reconnect and measure the frequency between the yellow wire and the black/white wire. Should be around 2,500Hz at idle. Frequency should change as you move the throttle blades. Many low $ multi-meters now include a frequency counter.
#3
Thanks, I will try that out and post my findings.
The light turned off long enough for me to get it through emissions, but then turned back on later that day. I drove the car to work and when I got on the freeway the light came on followed with a slight hesitaion. Then it continued to buck a little for another mile or so. Today when I started it, the light turned back off LOL and now the car runs great...
I will test it though.
The light turned off long enough for me to get it through emissions, but then turned back on later that day. I drove the car to work and when I got on the freeway the light came on followed with a slight hesitaion. Then it continued to buck a little for another mile or so. Today when I started it, the light turned back off LOL and now the car runs great...
I will test it though.
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