Picture of Hooker Y-pipe ground clearance inside
#1
Picture of Hooker Y-pipe ground clearance inside
A few of you asked me to take a better picture of my ground clearance with the Hooker Y-pipe.
Here's the picture. The suspension is stock on the car right now, and the ground clearance is great. Anyone who's considering this y-pipe, I'd highly recommend it.
Here's the picture. The suspension is stock on the car right now, and the ground clearance is great. Anyone who's considering this y-pipe, I'd highly recommend it.
#3
Sort of.... had to cut the I-pipe a little bit and there was some shoving done on the driver side. It's really tight and I thought I'm gonna have some bad rattles, but not much at all really.
You will have the PCM on Monday. (because of the holiday)
You will have the PCM on Monday. (because of the holiday)
#4
Originally posted by madwolf
Sort of.... had to cut the I-pipe a little bit and there was some shoving done on the driver side. It's really tight and I thought I'm gonna have some bad rattles, but not much at all really.
You will have the PCM on Monday. (because of the holiday)
Sort of.... had to cut the I-pipe a little bit and there was some shoving done on the driver side. It's really tight and I thought I'm gonna have some bad rattles, but not much at all really.
You will have the PCM on Monday. (because of the holiday)
I'm just hoping my install goes easier than the one I did on my friend's 95 T/A. We hit some snags, but all in all, for the way it worked out in the end, there were no insurmountable issues. We did notch the K-member and I was hoping not to have to do that on mine... I just want to be able to get away with not having to do that to mine. I also figure on cutting the intermediate pipe anyway, since the inlet to my catback is 2 3/4" outside diameter anyway since it interfaces with the stock 96/97 Y. I'd just be happy enough to run right out the Y pipe at this point.
#5
Yea, I know exactly what you mean man.
Here's what I had to do just to get the driver side header in.
No Slip Tube
No Steering Linkage
No Filter
Took out all 6 cradle bolts
Took out tranny crossmember and let the tranny rest on the x-brace (driveshaft)
Lowered the k-member about 4-5 inches
Needless to say, it was a huge PITA....
Passenger side went in like 10 minutes.
Here's what I had to do just to get the driver side header in.
No Slip Tube
No Steering Linkage
No Filter
Took out all 6 cradle bolts
Took out tranny crossmember and let the tranny rest on the x-brace (driveshaft)
Lowered the k-member about 4-5 inches
Needless to say, it was a huge PITA....
Passenger side went in like 10 minutes.
#6
We had basically the same experience with his. The engine was so far over to the drivers side that there was no way it was going in with the motor jacked as far up as it would go. We opted to grind the lip of the K member in the semicircular area... the slip fit part of the header kept hitting there.
Passenger side for us was also cake.
A word of caution though, he burnt through a hard brake line on the drivers side body two weeks after his install. The slip fit junction was actually touching that heat shield and there was no way we could seem to dent it in enough. Honestly, if I encounter that problem, I am going to try to move my brake lines down or up in that area, since they have a fair amount of flex in them. Just whatever you do be careful... I thought it wouldn't kill a metal brake line, but it did.
Passenger side for us was also cake.
A word of caution though, he burnt through a hard brake line on the drivers side body two weeks after his install. The slip fit junction was actually touching that heat shield and there was no way we could seem to dent it in enough. Honestly, if I encounter that problem, I am going to try to move my brake lines down or up in that area, since they have a fair amount of flex in them. Just whatever you do be careful... I thought it wouldn't kill a metal brake line, but it did.
#8
That's the way my Y pipe looks too It's not a direct bolt on though. Like Ion said, have to cut the pipe a bit by bit to get it to fit. Jigsaw tool came very handy for me. It's was about 1 hour job toget the pipe to fit for me.
Nice rims, I guess your car is just missing some heads,Ion.Or maybe you shooting for a blower .
Nice rims, I guess your car is just missing some heads,Ion.Or maybe you shooting for a blower .
#10
Originally posted by madwolf
Everything you said sounds exactly like what I had to go through... and to top it all, does THIS look familiar?
Ouch, didn't think it would burn through a hard line. Better get it taken care of soon!
Thanks for the advice!
Everything you said sounds exactly like what I had to go through... and to top it all, does THIS look familiar?
Ouch, didn't think it would burn through a hard line. Better get it taken care of soon!
Thanks for the advice!
I think if I encounter that issue I am opting for trying to bend those lines downward a bit. I know for a fact they have just a little flex in them. We even left the heat shield in place (thought it was touching... I figured it was too large a piece of metal and it would dissipate... ) and it burned straight through that and eventually ruptured a hardline. He is running a new hardline this week. Also, we had to hammer down the little tabs there on the steering... when we turned the wheel they would catch on the #1 primary ever so slightly. Can't tell if you had to do that in your pic. Get it taken care of though before you have to do what my friend did. Good luck!
The only consolation we had was that there was absolutely no wires near the headers on the passenger side. We had a ton of room over there to tuck stuff away.
#11
The body of the car is 93, engine is a 94, but that shouldn't make a difference.
The engine has been out of the car and I never bothered to reinstall those brake line plastic brackets, so I guess bending the lines a little won't be a problem at all. Didn't have any problems with the steering linkage, so no modifications there.
The engine has been out of the car and I never bothered to reinstall those brake line plastic brackets, so I guess bending the lines a little won't be a problem at all. Didn't have any problems with the steering linkage, so no modifications there.
#12
"Trash can" is a bit different from what it used to be. New carpet, new dash, white gages, rims, loooud borla with comming cutout (cannot wait to see some ricers face when I open it) , hooker Y-pipe, crome valve covers. Thinking about diamond SFC and strut tower base. Will put heated O2 sensors. Bought a good welder, made my life so much easier. Still need to paint the bumper and left fender, but other than that my car is almost perfecto. Will paint by myself. The house I live in has a very nice garage attached that belongs just to me I wish I could visit Dekalb, but I am writing two papers on my break,and this is no fun
#13
OK OK, excuse my ignorance... so it's a riced out trash can with forged garbage in it. Big deal!
Just kidding.
Didn't want to go too radical on it this time since this tranny has 129K miles on it and I'm surprised it even lasted this long. I might throw some ported LT4s this spring and a tranny rebuild. This started out as a daily driver but after driving the 1.5L monster fury long enough, I can definetely tell the difference in gas expenses.
Just kidding.
Didn't want to go too radical on it this time since this tranny has 129K miles on it and I'm surprised it even lasted this long. I might throw some ported LT4s this spring and a tranny rebuild. This started out as a daily driver but after driving the 1.5L monster fury long enough, I can definetely tell the difference in gas expenses.
#14
I remember my 86 supra passing your 1.5L monster . Sometimes I see my fuel gage go down when I beat on my car too much, but its worth it. Running with no O2 sensors give me way more power, but it hurts my valet a bit. It was a stupid mistake to cut O2 wires and extend them by myself. I had to smolder all of them back one by one.
As far as rebuilding your tranny,I would sugest making an M6 conversion,it would cost almost the same, and its way more fun. Ported LT4's are nice but expensive. Nice seeing a POS to start with coming alive to a completely restored and fast car.
As far as rebuilding your tranny,I would sugest making an M6 conversion,it would cost almost the same, and its way more fun. Ported LT4's are nice but expensive. Nice seeing a POS to start with coming alive to a completely restored and fast car.
#15
There are some that have suggested that the dual cat cars received a minor treatment to the drivers side body near the exhaust to accomodate the large jug type catalytic converter. I am going to well document my drivers side when I put mine in, to see if this theory has any truth to it. From a brief rundown of all the people with problems on the drivers side thus far, mostly it has been single cat cars.