seanW

I have AFR heads and Hooker longtubes.

I want to know what kind of plugs, what kind of wires and how you are running them!!!!!!!
I'm on my 5th set just installed and went for a test drive and wouldn't you know....burnt this set in like 15 minutes of driving.

I'm sooo pissed off!!!

3 sets of 409's
2 set of 8mm. TELL ME what you people are using!!

please

colorchange96

im using accel 9000 wires. they were routed through the motor mount and then up to each plug. the number 5 and 7 ones are the hardest to route but it can be done if your careful and tuck it close to the block. these wires are 8mm and have high heat coating and are really thick. they are made for headers. also taylor makes an over the valve cover kit that comes with everything you need, but you have to put the wires together your self.

baron4406

I have have cheapie Accel Super Stock wires that I went over the valve cover with. This is the ONLY way to run wires on an LT equipped LT1 trust me bro. I have my setup zip tied away from everything and they aren't even close to the primaries, even the PIA #5 primary. You can get OVC looms made by a company called Made For You out of the Summit Catalog. My wires were a universal set that I had to get the LT1 ends for seperate. There is no way to run wires in the stock location with LT's. My wires have been on there for a year and they aren't even discolored in any way, even the boot on #5.

Derrick Redd

I have the 9000 Extremes also. Over 2 + years without a problem.

rpm4lalo

I have Jet Hot Longtubes.
MSD 8.5mm wires.
I Do Not have the OTV kit, every thing is more or less in the stock location, just stratigically placed zip ties and ..........Taylor Firesleeve (ordered from Summit) where I felt a there might be contact between the wire and the header.

3 months so far and not a single problem.

got_hp?

there is no need for heat sleaves, or ovc kits, unless you like the look.

on the driver side, route in the stock location, just ziptie everything tight against the little groove for the wires. this side is easy. (easier if you removed AIR)


the passenger side........dont route in the stock location.

take the wires off, and take the pulley tensioner off. about 1 inch back behind where the wires plug into the opti.........there is a gap that you can stick your finger through, which drops the plug wires down near the motor mount. from the motor mount, all 4 plug wires can be run straight up to their respective plug without coming anywhere near a primary. ziptie them to be safe.

jkipp84

I route the wires the same way got_hp? just mentioned and have never had a problem with burning wires.. Just take your time and make sure you have a zip tie or something to keep the wires where you put them.

Derek 94Z28

I use Accel 9000's also, I did burn a couple but to solve that I just got another set and on the cylinders that I burnt the wires on (#5 and #6 I believe) I just used the wires that were supposed to be used on the furthest cylinders back. That way I have lots of extra slack to zip-tie them out of the way. Just a thought if you keep burning wires on the same couple cylinders.

Derek

simple

Taylor OTVC wires and looms with hooker longtubes, had them on the car for about 2 days running and absolutely no problems
zipties are your friend when it comes to ignition wires

revtime

Who needs OTVC?
I don,t.
I have MSD 8.5s and I routed them basically the same way some of the others here did. I did route 5 and 7 up over the valve cover sort of but without looms and crap just some strategically located zip ties. The passenger side I routed through the pulleys and down through the motor mount. Put some convoluted tubing on the wires you run through the brackets or they will chaff and start arcing. Routing is the key here, make damn sure your routing job is up to snuff by checking clearance everywhere.
I thought number 5 would give me trouble as its the only boot that is somewhat close but I have about 400 miles on it now and the plug boot is fine not melted or deformed in any way.
Again, I can not stress this enough, ROUTING THE WIRES IS THE KEY.
Oh I believe I ran wire for number 2 around and under the alternator like the stock ones run through but I chucked the little plastic wiring crap and zip tied (there it is again) it to the bracket.
I wish I could be there to show you this stuff, mine were pretty easy actually, I was left wondering why so many people have problems with this.

carlos64030

Another option you have is to buy 1 shorty style spark plug from Accel for the #5 primary. The part # is: P526S. With the shorty plug and some kevlar fire sleeves, you'll never have another problem.

D James

I use MSD 8.5 with over the valve cover holders, no zip ties and have not had any problems since I put them on which has been over a year. the only thing I tied up is the wire bundle to the starter. I have it running inside the motor mount then tied to the loom, so it won't go anywhere. The looms themselves have like four different wire holders, I only used two, because the rest were to hard to hook up, and there is no need to have all of them on there. You can see what I mean from the pictures here http://community.webshots.com/album/79485783kIzaYY/1

D James

forgot to mention, I bought them from summit for around 35 bucks, they work real well, the wires won't move even if you try and push towards the primaries

jim88iroc305

Accel Extreme 9000 Heat Reflective

RCF925

Bundling plug wires together is not such a good idea, You can get a misfire this way. The best way is to buy plug seperators and route them as some of the others have suggested keeping the wires from touching each other. Thats what I did with AS&M Headers, Magnecor 8.5 mm wires.