WS Sick

In my 93 I had a built bottom end (forged crank, 6 inch rods , SRP pistons) and a set of ported heads and a cc305. I removed the rev limiter (took it to max in the table) and it would still pull to 6900. I ran some 12.2s and 3s with it shifting at 67-6800, when I shifted it at 62-63 it lost almost a half a second. I would not try this too much though on a stock unprepped crank and rods.

Mystic97Z

i'm building a 355 right now. le2 heads, send flow #'s to cmotorsports and got this cam 2 weeks later. planning on staying around 6500 rpms or so. lower end is an eagle steel crank, eagle 6" h beams and j & e pistons. car is a 6 speed and NOT a daily driver. hoping for 11's. what ya think? full bolt on's all that stuff.

236/245 .579/.576 111 lsa

Jameslt1TA

With that bottom end you should be good to AT LEAST 7000 rpms and with a cam that big you will probably want to shift at 6800-6900 or so.

Mystic97Z

cool, thanks for the info.
also, people say they don't want to reve past xx rpms..say you over rev a bottom end, whats the outcome? broken rods? messes up valvetrain.
i had a stock (rebuilt) bottom end on my previous le1 setup and never reved over 6400 rpms and it ended up throwing a rod. so whats the outcome if you over rev a car?

Mindgame

I'm following ya, and the message is a good one.

As for the last part of that... some people fall into "More's law". Trying to out-do the other guy is ok, but you have to set limits with a clear definition (in your own mind) of what a street car is to YOU. As long as guys can stay clear on that I see no harm... although most of the really addicted eventually turn their rides into "track only" cars. Either that or they pose as "street car".

-Mindgame

Mindgame

Should be there, but not on HP alone. If you don't neglect your suspension and work towards cutting low 60' times, you'll be there if everything is dialed in.

-Mindgame

vette40th

With an automatic, even with a good converter to match the cam, I always try to find out what vacuum guys are running, as my brakes are pretty important to me. 12 inHG is about as low as I like to go. Now everyones brakes are different, but the bigger the caliper, the more vacuum needed to apply the brakes.
With my 396/Hot Cam I was pulling 13.5
That to me is driveability, and you have to be realistic in your driving.
6-Speeds etc are a little more forgiving, as you can raise the idel up a little for additional vacuum.
Just my 2 cents

396D1SS

I spun my 306 to 7000rpms constantly

Mystic97Z

o i deffinately agree. was runnin mid 12's before, but could only get 1.9 60 ft! trying for 1.6

Shon Herron

Not true really, each set up is different and you have to find the sweet spot for your set up. My HOT cam car I turned from 5800-6700, the higher the RPM the slower (ET & MPH) it went so I opted for a 6k shift point and it did very well there. Trust me, I spent a TON of time on shift points and it is more difficult to do that with an A4, an M6 or A3 it would be much easier to test with a shift light but the A4 had to be programmed, that was alot of working and sweating...

stereomandan

I should have specified that I was talking about a M6, and unless your car has a strange TQ curve for a Hotcam, 6500+ RPM shift are the best. Maybe you were getting valve float at the higher RPM's which would cause your power to die off in the upper RPM's. If you have an old dyno plot of that setup, I can tell you exactly where the optimal shift point is. It's based off your dyno curve and your tranny gearing.

Dan

Shon Herron

My experience was with the A4 and TH350. and Valve float was not an issue, CC987 springs with the Ti stuff....Comp R lifters, Pro Mags, etc....it was the set up. I have seen many HOT cam graphs and would agree that power might be had up there but not in my case....

1badasZ

where is the best place to put the signal wire for an autometer tach n shift light? i dont think mine is reading the same as the stock tach but im not good enough to watch both of them yet lol. also Ion on my tune im not sure where you have my shift points but i think around 5800 or so. do you think they need adjusting?

madwolf

Your transmission should be shifting right around 6400. That's where it's set at.

lt1_forever

i'm curious to know what i can rev mine to to get the best power results. heres what i got 97 lt1 built 355 motor by APE forged rods, piston, and eagle crank, etc. stock heads with upgraded springs(can't remember which ones right now) chromoloy pushrods, i think pro mag rockers. cc305. m6.3:73 gears. plus i will be running anywhere from a 150 to 200 wet shot. also anyone have any idea on what i would run at the track times/mph(i have descent suspension and i usually run on drag radials)