RCF925

You have it easy, I had a similar problem as you Dolby109, Car would run fine until it warmed up then misfire bad when giving it throttle. It took me 8 hrs. to do the plug wires but thats because I have a Vortech with Aftercooler and I took my time to make sure I won't be doing this anytime soon.

Dolby109

OK....well I got the driver plugs and wires no problem. It took a hell of a lot longer than 15min, but it still wasnt that bad.

Then I took the starter and alternator off, and changed the back 3 plugs on the passenger side.

Problem is, I cannot figure out for the life of me how to get to the front passenger plug.
Perhaps I had the car jacked too high, but I couldnt reach or see it from any angle.

Furthermore, I couldn't figure out how to get the wires out on that side.
I can see where the plug into the opti, but they just go into this mess of AC stuff, and then come out on the other side, past the first plug that I cant see or reach.
There seem to be a few things holding them togeather, which I cant reach, because I couldnt get the wires to pull through.

Last I am not shure how to get the coil wire off.
I am partly worried that if I rig it out, I wont be able to put the new one back on (short of removing the water pump).
So will the wire just pull right out from under the WP, and push straight back in, or does it have a 90 degree boot on the opti side?

So the driver side has new plugs and wires, and the passenger side has 3 new plugs.
The problem is still there. Once the car warms up it misses. The longer I drive it the more it misses, and if I keep going it gets to the point where the car will shake and jerk.


Last...how complicated is it to remove the AC (completely)? I figure I would have to get another tensioner of some type, because otherwise the belt setup would not work. So what do you have to get to remove it? Is there some sort of 1LE setup you can do?

Dolby109

TTT....

Koby

To get the wires out of the passenger side you have to take off the power steering pump. Just unscrew the two screws and pull it back away from the block, then you should be able to pull the plug wires through. The easiest way to get to the front one if from the top, just keep trying to get your hand down in there. I have small hands and i took all my emissions stuff off, so i have a little more room to work.

Good luck.

White Z 4 Show

try making a new thread for the A/C removal or do a search, for best results.

also I've changed my driver side twice and this past time took me 15-20 minutes. you'll get faster each time, trust me

as for that front left passenger side plug, I just kept putting my socket down there and "hopefully" got it on there and I did. then on the new one, you have to do just the opposite. I put the plug down there and tried to find the hole, twist a few times to see if it went in, then put the socket back on and EASILY tightened it down. car idles better now for me, doesn't misfire, nuttin. she runs like a olympic champion haha

mdstud

Well I don't think you need to remove the A/C Compressor, just the alternator, but you will have to manuver in and out of power steering lines, I just changed mine 3 days ago took me about 4 or 5 hours... just make sure you route them the same way they came out or you will be doing it again... also if you jack up the front and look back towards the front of engine where the serpentine belt runs you can usually see pretty good where the wires are routed and connected to distributor... Also about the original problem have you check for any trouble codes? if you have the 12 pin data link connector then you can jump a paper clip between the A and B connector(upper and all the way to the right) to read them, if you have a 16 pin then you have to have them read by a code reader... good luck

ZZtop

Well, unless you have already done so, you do not need to remove the alternator or power steering pump to change plug wires, dont know about plugs. I changed wires for my first time this summer and while it takes a long time for someone with big d#$%beaters like me, its not so bad. One thing that helped me was removing the battery and cutting the plastic loom that the wires make a 90degree turn in. I cut that loom in half, so basically I had two looms now. It worked great and made it so much easier to run the wires and get teh lengths going to the opti correct (this is the main issue on the passenger side). Hope these ideas help some. Good luck.

Dolby109

Well tomarrow I am planning on putting on the coil wire.

I will remove the battery, and see how hard it is to get to the wires with it out.

I doubt it will fix the problem, so I allready ordered an opti from work...

My question is, if the opti doesnt come with the cap and rotor (which I doubt it will) will I need to buy those too, or will I most likely ONLY need the cap and rotor?

Is the install complicated past taking off the water pump???

Dolby109

A friend of mine suggested removing the fender well...
I havnt done it yet, but in theory that would seem like a great idea.
Any of you heard of this.
I wonder why noone mentioned it.

Bud M

Removing the fenderwell? You are making it way too complicated.
As for the opti replacement: http://www.streetillusionsracing.com.../opti/opti.htm

revtime

Removing the fenderwell?
I know plugs and wires can be a pain but thats going to far.
It took me 2 days the very first time I did plugs and wires, it aint easy and before you go pulling the AC or the fenderwell for chrissakes (would not work by the way) pull the Ypipe if you are going to pull anything like that.
I did it all without removing anything, but I was beat at the end of it all.
Now I suggest putting LTs in, its a little bit of work yes but plug access is excellent on my Hooker LTs.