I am only wanting guys who have done this and what your out come was. LT1 or LS1 dont matter just no carbed cars here please.

 

i upgraded ALL my cables though! like the ones that go to and from the starter! and the cable that goes to the alternator i upgraded to like a 4 guage cable. then the ones to the starter were like 4 guage as well. the POSITIVE cable from the trunk to the front of the car is a 2 guage.. then the cable from the NEGATIVE on the battery i have ran to the seatbelt bolt in the trunk. that cable is like a 1 or 0 guage.. havent had NE problems with this setup.. been running it for over a year now.. my battery is one of those exide orbital gel cell betterys or whatever

 

I used the summit kit and spliced into the factory Postive cable cut it where it goes from the battery to the starter.And 4 guage running to my alt. from the battery the rest is 2 gauge.

 

I should have purchased the summit kit but instead I made my own...

I used 4 gauge high performance cable coming from the trunk to a distribution block that I used in the front. The dist. block has 1 inlets and 3 outlets. I cut the factory red battery harness and replaced the starter cable with my own 4 gauge cable that I made with nice gold ends. I left the alternator the same because it only puts out so much voltage and the cable used from the factory is more then sufficient. I regrounded everything in the engine bay and cleaned up the factory red distribution block. I tinned the ends of all the wires and made sure when things were clamped down they didn't come loose because I was left stranded a couple of times from having things shake loose and wires squished down that lost contact. The ground wire in the trunk is the factory negitive cable from an 88 IROC battery. I drilled a hole through the sheet metal behind a tail light and made sure I grinded down to metal where the cable connects.


I slowly learned how to make this system work through trial and error and towing a couple of times. I stress to everyone. TIN the ends of every wire and make sure the ground wires are as big as the positives. 4 gauge wire is big enough for this setup but you can use 2 gauge if you want or if you buy the summit kit.



4 gauge negitive battery cable
4 gauge positive up to engine bay
1>3 distribution block in engine bay
4 gauge starter cable
4 gauge positive lead to wire harness
cleaned all grounds in engine bay

rock on

 

I dont wanna step on any toes here but i think that you should use a pretty big wire to go all the way from the trunk to the distro block or the starter, as some here have done. In order to efficiently transfer the amperage of our high output batteries i think you should go no smaller than 2 gauge for that long of a span. 1/0 would be optimal, its expensive but you'll get the best current transfer and the most amps to the starter that you can(really important in high comp situations) and i completely agree that the ground does need to match the power wire. hope this helps

CR

 

my setup works awesome now and I have absolutely no problems with it. I have a resistance testor (large tester on stand) and we cranked it around demanding a lot from the system and it took a lot to lower the voltage a little. The connections smoked before it went down and it was crankin. I would go with two if I was to do it again but my car starts in one crank most of the time and definately charges quickly. I even used the old regualr battery and not a special one and it is fine

 

are you guys using the battery kill switch? I am to be leagal!