SStrokerAce

John,

The spray is the only part that makes this deal hard on parts.

A set of good TFS heads might be better than a set of 220's.

Personally I would do Pro Mags or Hi Techs over any Aluminum Rocker, Golds included.

IMHO the Olvier Rods are so much overkill for a 650rwhp setup it's silly. A Eagle H beam and if you have the cash some L19's is going to be more than enough here.

Even with the deal on the parts here $5K is going to shrink fast when you start buying JE pistons, Oliver Rods and a Callies crank. None of those parts are going to make you any HP. I do like the Dragonslayer but any 383 1 piece rear main seal forged crank will be overkill here, which is the point. I would guess that you are going with flat tops too, so a SRP would be a better bet and with a discount cheaper than the JE.

Olvier Rods $1000-$1200, Callies Crank $800, JE Pistons $600-$700. Now drop that too...... Scat/Eagle 4340 Crank $600, SRP Pistons $450-$500, Eagle H's with L19's $540...... at least a $200 savings and the parts will last.

Now If I was building this for me, then I wouldn't worry as much about some of the strength issues really. Scat 9000, Eagle H's and a set of Diamond or SRP Pistons. $1000 for that, then spend the money on the heads, intake and valvetrain.

Heads.......

CNC Race Ported 220's are going to run $2600, then you have to put springs and the right crap on them. Might as well start with a bare casting LT4, or TFS and get them ported by a really good head guy. Put better valves and parts on them and end up with a better head for the same money.

Keep doin some research, look at the guys with big power like MG. He spent more money but it was all on heads. Right now seems like overkill in the bottom end and not enough on the heads.

Bret

Dave88LX

Damn that's some good info there...

...btw, dropping my stuff off with Bret tomorrow.

Camaro_Guru16NY

Bret,

THats some awesome info right there, thanks. I did consider going with some of the lower priced stuff like SRP etc. I was figuring on building it strong or even too strong the first time around with the oliver and JE stuff so as I wouldnt have any problems down the road.

But, you saying that all of that stuff is not needed and the cheaper setup will do just fine then thats friggin awesome. Then I will throw the rest of the money at the heads and valvetrain. THe only reason I was liking the dragon slayor was because it will leave me more room for the future but alot of it will depend on the prices that I can find and deals I can get. If I have the cash I dont really mind spending it on parts that may be too much, but Then again ill have to have the cash.

Ill be talking to you soon though,

THanks bret,
-john

Camaro_Guru16NY

Bret,

what would be the max power levels of the set up you told me with the eagle 4340 crank, eagle H beams and either SRP or Diamond pistons. I dont have a problem spending a little more money here so I dont have to spen more money later if Idecide to go to a bigger set up.


Also what kind of machining is going to be necassary to put this engine together and what do you figure that this will probably run at say an average price to get it done right. so basically what individual machining steps are need and what will each of them cost. Im curious so I can start putting together a more detailed part list and start figuring out my budget.

Thanks guys,
-john

IrocSS85

yeah, Im interested to hear what you think this RA is good for too since this is exactly the setup I just payed for. eagle 4340 crank, Hbeam eagle rods, srp pistons (16cc ).
chris

SStrokerAce

Depends on the rings.

SStrokerAce

Well unless you expect to beat Rich's numbers on Kenedy's dyno then I wouldn't worry about it.


Depends on your goals.....

450rwhp NA..... Probably doesn't need a 4 bolt main, or a forged crank. I would spend my money on really good heads, done by a very good shop. Since you want to add N2O, a 4 bolt main would help, but you are still not going to over do a Scat 9000. I would not be afraid to put 550rwhp thru a Scat 9000 NA if I kept the rod & piston weight down and the RPM down.

On top of that SR's aren't always needed either. If the motor is going to be a strip only motor, then a SR is a good deal. People seem to have some false ideas that forged or billet parts make HP and SR do too. A properly setup HR cam can turn some very high RPM and still work, but a SR would do it better. Same thing with the bottom end, forged parts don't make more power, they just take more of a beating, but going overboard doesn't really add to the lifetime of the motor either.

I know you don't want to hear this, but a Scat 9000 crank, 4 bolt conversion and a set of normal old Eagle H beams or Scat I beams with 7/16 bolts and a set of forged pistons will be about all you need to take what you are planning to do. If you want to go to a blower or lots of N2O later on you need to change clearances, pistons and ring gap anyways so build a motor for what you are doing now, not later.

BTW go get How To Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks On a Budget by David Vizard. That book will give you a lot of info that you need.

Bret

rskrause

Bret knows this stuff, so listen to him! Detonation will kill any motor, but if an appropriate DCR is selected for the gas that's available then detonation is avoided by a proper tune, good gas, and it's used with some sense then it should have reasonable longevity with the level of parts he has suggested. Just to emphasize a point he made: a nitrous motor will require a different setup than what you are planning on building. Specifically, a heavier piston designed for nitrous/boost and different ring gaps.

BTW Bret: we saw ~650 rwhp (through a loose converter). Forgive the vagueness and we did dyno it with nitrous but to preserve a certain degree of "stealth" (as I am trying to set up some local match races) let's just say that it was "enough" power. I will scan some dyno graphs for you and email them. Your help is greatly appricated!

Rich Krause

IrocSS85

hellfire rings. will be gapped .022 also I happen to have a fac. 4 bolt block.

SStrokerAce

Nice,

I've heard some good results from things lately, some I will not even bother saying until there is a dyno chart to prove them.

I'd like to hear about your converter and what not this year, hopefully it is working better than last years setup.

John,

At the most I would consider a Eagle H beam with the Scat 9000 and some Forged pistons. With a 200shot you just have to gap the rings correctly since most forged pistons will take a 200 shot pretty easily if that is all you are doing to them.

Bret

Camaro_Guru16NY

Bret,


again you are the man, I was unsure of some of the tolerances of some of the parts but you say they will work then they will work and that works for me. Im gonna start getting prices on all of this while im on vacation for the next week. Im definately gonna get a copy of that book, Iv seen it before but just never had the cash on hand to get it


THanks guys,
-john