problem with my ol lt1 running??? pics inside
08-28-2008, 06:44 PM
#1
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problem with my ol lt1 running??? pics inside
so just recently my car started to act up. i was driven down the interstate the other day an my car started jerking an the tach started bouncing around, lil later it cleared up figured no bid deal. well i get to a friends house stay there for an hour or so an leave. well i get about half way down the street an it starts it again then the motor shuts off. im like wtf?? well im still rollin about 40mph so i turn it over an over an over with no start. so i try poping the clutch to force it to start an nothing i can just hear the motor rotating but not running. well i pull over an try an start it but nothing. so i turn on the key an listen for the fuel pump to prime an it did. so i pulled the plug wire off the coil an checked for spark an there was spark. so i pulled the plug wire off the number 1 plug an checked for spark there an there seemed to be none. oh an i did all this that same night an still couldnt get it to start.
well i left it at my friends for 2 days an went back to get it towed to my house. i decided what the hell lets see if it will start get in turn the key for a split second an if fires right up!!! so im like hell yeah lets go, get in it an drive it home. well after drivin for like 10 minutes it starts to act up again, starts jerkin around an the tach is bouncin around again then it dies. try startin it over an over with nothing, pop the clutch an nothing. turn it over again an it starts then instantly shuts off twice in a row. turn it over an over with nothing, then turn it over again an it starts so i get back up to speed an it shuts off again i push in the clutch an right as i do that it comes back on an i drive it the rest of the way home.
so i really have no idea whats wrong with it. i thought maybe the opti but the distributer its self is new from oriellys an its got a basically new accell cap an rotor on it. i took the opti off anyways to check it out an took some pics for you guys to look at.
that lil black thing came out of the center of the cap, not to sure what it is or what it does or if its even supposed to come out of that metal thing in the middle of the cap? anyone know?
noticed the tip of the rotor is burnt some. only has maybe 6k miles on it not to sure if thats normal wear?
those brass poles look a lil burnt also??
i really have no idea whats wrong. any help would be much appriciated. thanks guys an girls
well i left it at my friends for 2 days an went back to get it towed to my house. i decided what the hell lets see if it will start get in turn the key for a split second an if fires right up!!! so im like hell yeah lets go, get in it an drive it home. well after drivin for like 10 minutes it starts to act up again, starts jerkin around an the tach is bouncin around again then it dies. try startin it over an over with nothing, pop the clutch an nothing. turn it over again an it starts then instantly shuts off twice in a row. turn it over an over with nothing, then turn it over again an it starts so i get back up to speed an it shuts off again i push in the clutch an right as i do that it comes back on an i drive it the rest of the way home.
so i really have no idea whats wrong with it. i thought maybe the opti but the distributer its self is new from oriellys an its got a basically new accell cap an rotor on it. i took the opti off anyways to check it out an took some pics for you guys to look at.
that lil black thing came out of the center of the cap, not to sure what it is or what it does or if its even supposed to come out of that metal thing in the middle of the cap? anyone know?
noticed the tip of the rotor is burnt some. only has maybe 6k miles on it not to sure if thats normal wear?
those brass poles look a lil burnt also??
i really have no idea whats wrong. any help would be much appriciated. thanks guys an girls
08-28-2008, 07:04 PM
#3
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Have you scanned it for codes? Erratic pulse patterns from the Opti optical sensor can cause the problems you describe, including the tach jumping wildly. The optical sensor will set codes if there is a problem.
Similarly, it may be related to the IC Module and heat soak. Shorts and opens in the ignition control circuit will also set specific codes.
Might also want to add basic info about your car, using the "signature" field. Year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods help people sort out the differences from year to year, when trying to answer a question like this.
Similarly, it may be related to the IC Module and heat soak. Shorts and opens in the ignition control circuit will also set specific codes.
Might also want to add basic info about your car, using the "signature" field. Year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods help people sort out the differences from year to year, when trying to answer a question like this.
08-28-2008, 08:31 PM
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08-28-2008, 08:35 PM
#5
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Its a carbon "button" that provides the electrical connection from the coil wire to the rotor. Its fixed in the cap, and the rotor "spring" contact presses against it as the rotor spins.
08-28-2008, 08:39 PM
#6
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Have you scanned it for codes? Erratic pulse patterns from the Opti optical sensor can cause the problems you describe, including the tach jumping wildly. The optical sensor will set codes if there is a problem.
Similarly, it may be related to the IC Module and heat soak. Shorts and opens in the ignition control circuit will also set specific codes.
Might also want to add basic info about your car, using the "signature" field. Year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods help people sort out the differences from year to year, when trying to answer a question like this.
Similarly, it may be related to the IC Module and heat soak. Shorts and opens in the ignition control circuit will also set specific codes.
Might also want to add basic info about your car, using the "signature" field. Year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods help people sort out the differences from year to year, when trying to answer a question like this.
the opti an cap/rotor are basically brand new, got a new coil, new ic module (thats the thing right above the coil right?), new plugs/wires, replaced the ignition switch( part the key goes into), new ignition module?(thing on top the steering colum under the dash)...
even though the ses light doesnt stay on does it store those codes until i actually erase them myself??
08-29-2008, 09:32 AM
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ok so in another words its a bad thing that the lil black carbon button is coming out of the cap then...
08-29-2008, 07:48 PM
#9
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i thought about scanning the thing for codes, the ses light does come on when it starts to do this but goes off when it runs normal. no clue why, also if i let the car run for a lil while at idle the ses light will come on but it goes off when i take off to drive it...
....even though the ses light doesnt stay on does it store those codes until i actually erase them myself??
....even though the ses light doesnt stay on does it store those codes until i actually erase them myself??
I doubt the button was held in there ridgidly. It has to be seated tight in the cap, to insure a decent electrical connection to the terminal for the coil wire. Its sort of like a carbon "brush" in an electric motor - as long as there is good contact between the metal parts and the carbon part, electricity will flow.
08-30-2008, 05:51 PM
#10
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Once the light comes on, the code is stored, and will stay there until you pull power from the PCM, or until you drive the car a significant number of "drive cycles" without the problem coming back. If the light was on recently, the code is stored.
I doubt the button was held in there ridgidly. It has to be seated tight in the cap, to insure a decent electrical connection to the terminal for the coil wire. Its sort of like a carbon "brush" in an electric motor - as long as there is good contact between the metal parts and the carbon part, electricity will flow.
I doubt the button was held in there ridgidly. It has to be seated tight in the cap, to insure a decent electrical connection to the terminal for the coil wire. Its sort of like a carbon "brush" in an electric motor - as long as there is good contact between the metal parts and the carbon part, electricity will flow.
08-31-2008, 12:54 PM
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its really hard to get ahold of a scan tool around where i stay but... i got ahold of one. here are the codes that came up for the first time scanned---
16- low res pulse circuit failure
41- electronic spark timing is open
44- left o2 sensor lean
64- right o2 sensor lean
51- prom error
37- brake switch stuck on
15- coolant sensor is too low
73- force motor current
72- trans output speed loss
well i erased those messed with some stuff, took the car back out drove it for a lil bit an same thing happened again. rescaned the car an thes are what came up---
16-Distributor ignition system (low resolution pulse)
41-Ignition Control (IC) circuit (open circuit)
73-Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) circuit (current error)
59-Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor circuit high (low temperature indicated)
90-Transmission TCC solenoid circuit
not to sure what any of these mean, although my car is a 6 speed so not to sure why its throwing auto tranny codes?? also those last 5 i just got the discription from shoeboxs web page of dtc codes. any one know anything about these codes?
08-31-2008, 02:30 PM
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DTC 16 means the PCM is having trouble finding the low resolution pulse pattern from the Opti. When that signal is erratic, you get screwy tach reading, erratic engine operation, etc. When the PCM loses the pulse pattern completely, it sets DTC 16 and shuts down the fuel system = no run. If it was still running when you scanned it, DTC 16 is a stored code. But it indicates erratic output from the Opti or harness wire/connector problems.DTC 41 indicates there is a short in the wiring to the IC Module, or in the module.
Sorta takes you back to what I suggested the problems are my first post.
Also look at the possibility of faulty engine and PCM grounds.
The rest of the codes may be set because there is nothing hooked to those connections on the PCM, since you have a manual. When they did the OBD-I conversion, did they flash the PCM with an M6 program?
As you can see from your first list of codes, wherever you looked them up is not too accurate with regard to the LT1. Shoebox's list is correct, as you found out. With his list, 72 would have shown up as a VSS error.
Sorta takes you back to what I suggested the problems are my first post.
Also look at the possibility of faulty engine and PCM grounds.
The rest of the codes may be set because there is nothing hooked to those connections on the PCM, since you have a manual. When they did the OBD-I conversion, did they flash the PCM with an M6 program?
As you can see from your first list of codes, wherever you looked them up is not too accurate with regard to the LT1. Shoebox's list is correct, as you found out. With his list, 72 would have shown up as a VSS error.