1racerdude

Ya need to get it to PULL past 5800 with a 4.30 gear or change the gear to a 4.10.Your RPM's would be over 5800 IF it would PULL up there ya would go out PULLING about 6500 and have to shift at 6500-7000. So if it won't pull up there-- thus your low MPH.
Also sounds like ya need tire or suspension work.

HorsePowder

so taking what you said in example do you mean i would be better off w/ a 28" tire because that'll allow me to run lower rpm shift points and still pull through traps in 4th rather 5th?

also what makes you say i need suspension/tire work?

1racerdude

If ya are spinning then it ain't bittin.(Daaaaah) On a 26/28x10.5DR your car should try to break your neck when it leaves(depending on converter)Some are running 1.5's with no trans break.Some with a brake are in the 1.20's-1.30's.A 396 has a butt load of torque and if the chassis ain't right=no 60'(one on the line gives ya 2 at the other end)
Ya shouldn't have to go to 5th if it's pulling over 5800 with a 4.30.Ya got to shift at 7000 and if it is PULLING it will go out at 6500 on 28 tall's.If it is just lazying then the gear don't do ya any good= no MPH.
Get it to pull up there and TAKE it up there and get some BITE ya will be surprised.

HorsePowder

the car is a 6 speed, so im a little confused about your posting w/ tbrake and such. right now i have the rear comp drag shocks set at the lowest setting i believe it to be somewhere around 30/70, and the front hals at 1, on the fronts i've tried setting them at 3 and also 5 w/ 1 netting the best results. i'm pretty sure once the 28" tire is on i will dead hook.. i have the pinion angle set at -2 right now and dont know if thats the place to be or not. but i would say the car leaves hard, but after watching video it seems the cars first move is up then out, it'll pop the tires when i dump the clutch then launch out. it doesnt appear to be "unloading" the rear at all either.

1racerdude

Set your rear on 70-compression 30 extension on both sides. Ya got an air bag? Still got the rear anti roll bar? Front? How much air pressure? what tires?Got LCA anti squat bracket's? Where is your instant center? What TQ arm? -2* is OK am using 3.
Trans brake referance is just an example.Haven't set up any stick cars because of breakage problems.

HorsePowder

yes i have the alston tq arm, it bolts up in the tunnel (non-trans mounted ta) and umi panhard bar, bmr sfc's, profab k member, front qa1 r series,no front sway bar, stock rear sway bar w/ poly links, poly trans mount, lakewood lca's, umi lca reloc brackets for 12bolt, i know the shocks in the rear are on the lowest setting possible for the comp drag shocks, tire pressure was varied out of the 8 runs, w/ 18 being reference then lowering from there, best 60' was w/ 12 psi in the slicks, fronts shocks on 1 and rears set the lowest. but w/ 12psi the car was a little squeerly down the track.

skinnies up front also.

Mindgame

Hey LR, you have any track time for that car yet or are they a secret?

Be interesting to see what David's does... if he ever gets a starter on the darned thing.

-Mindgame

1racerdude

He He-- I just went and GOT the starter(Tilton type) and that's it.
No times yet ant through with it.
I'm talking the other cars I have helped with.

Mindgame

Ah it's ok LR, I was just curious how the beast was running.

The Tilton's a good choice.

-Mindgame

1racerdude

18-20 is good in some slicks,DR's take more.
Like I said stiff on compression and light on extension on the rear.
Ya can ,with stock suspension location's, make that stick either stand on the bumper or destroy everything under the car(except 9")If ya are leaving hard 4000+RPM's That's hook,and another reason for the auto and converter.Ya can put them on the bumper too, but it is easier on the driveline,If ya don't crash everything coming down.
You need to concentrate on getting your engine to pull above 5800 and then see what it does(without buying anything for the suspension) and see what it does.Might be all ya want at this time....
I would recommend a Spohn TA,and possibably the lower holes in your brackets.Take the spring rubbers out of the rear springs(on top) and an air bag set up right.

What springs in the rear?

1racerdude

I will get back to you when it's right.No secret's here,if it does good then I will be proud pappa.

HorsePowder

the spring rubbers are out of the rears, and control arms on the lower hole of the brackets, as far as tq arm, i think im gunna leave this one in, i like it and its brand new, what is the reasoning for me getting the sphon?

also as far as makin power up top, should i look into tuning? diff heads/cam combo, would it be possible the stock MAF to be restriciting or the slp cai? my car has not been reprogrammed for the 58mm tb.

1racerdude

What do the heads flow? What intake?

Does the TA bolt to the floor or on a cross bracket?

HorsePowder

the heads flow roughly 260-270 intake at .600 and i believe 198 exhaust, i may be wrong, i'll have to check, the intake is portmatched to felpro gastkets and opened up to a 58 mm tb.

the ta bolts into the tunnel, similar to the jegs one they used to sell.

1racerdude

The heads at 260 should support 534FWHP and about 480RWHP and thats with everything being dead nuts on.
Is it a stock intake? Ya need a 1300CFM TB and as large of an intake track as ya can get. You can figure at least a 10% flow loss through the stock intake which will drop ya to about 462RWHP. I believe the stock intake loss is more than 10% and the runner length is to short(Stealth Ram)
A mech roller in the 260@50 range on a 108+4 with a 400 lobe lift will be close(650+ lift)This will take some of the low end away and put it up top. A good dyno tune by someone that KNOWS what he is doing will help also.

If the TA bolts into the floor board it won't be long until ya got a shredded floor board.Keep a good check on the mounting bolt's and make sure they stay tight.That will help some.