Question on Rockers...
#1
Question on Rockers...
Alright so earlier I asked a question about injectors and lifters for the LE2 setup (and was helped quickly Thanks!) and now I have a question on rockers. I'm looking at them now and there's so many choices that I don't really know what to go with as far as what size stud or the ratio? So I was just wondering if someone could help me out on what I should go with. I'm planning on going with the LE2 Setup as I said and other than that I just have some bolt ons (in my sig) if that helps at all. Thanks!
Edit: One other question. I was told with this extra power I should upgrade my torque arm. I was also told I should relocate it so it actually attaches to the tranny mount...I was wondering if anyone could elaborate here and let me know what I need. Thanks a lot!
Edit: One other question. I was told with this extra power I should upgrade my torque arm. I was also told I should relocate it so it actually attaches to the tranny mount...I was wondering if anyone could elaborate here and let me know what I need. Thanks a lot!
Last edited by JamesZ28; 10-30-2008 at 10:17 AM. Reason: Adding some more
#4
#6
To clarify: stock rocker studs for a SBC are 7/16" diameter where they screw into the head and 3/8" on the top where they go through the rocker and screw into the locknut. Why GM did this back at the origin of the SBC is a mystery. Anyway, BBC studs always were 7/16-7/16". So people started using BBC studs due to the greater strength of the beefier stud. Now, the aftermarket makes the bigger studs specifically for the SBC (BBC studs are longer). If you are replacing the studs and rockers, there is no reason not to get the 7/16-7/16" studs and rockers to match. However, in any typical street or street strip buildup it's not as though the smaller studs are a problem.
Rich
Rich
#7
Wow, good info Rich, I didn't know that about the BBC studs in SBCs.
I went with 7/16" studs as well. If you are putting new rockers on there, you might as well splurge a little on bigger studs for the added insurance, they are pretty cheap. I actually have an extra set of 7/16" ARP rocker studs lying around here somewhere if you want them.
I went with 7/16" studs as well. If you are putting new rockers on there, you might as well splurge a little on bigger studs for the added insurance, they are pretty cheap. I actually have an extra set of 7/16" ARP rocker studs lying around here somewhere if you want them.
#8
The stock torque arm mounts to a bushing/bracket bolted on the tailshaft of the tranny. For high HP applications, you want to REMOVE the torque arm mount from the tranny tailshaft, and relocate it to the body. Many aftermarket arm mounts bolt to the pads for the stock chassis cross-brace, behind the tranny mount cross-member. Others use a plate that bolts to the driveshaft tunnel, and some use a large cross-member that needs to be welded to subframe connectors.
Example - Spohn torque arm mount. Black pads insulate the mount from the factory chassis pads:
http://www.spohn.net/prodimages/1019/20.jpg
Example - Spohn torque arm mount. Black pads insulate the mount from the factory chassis pads:
http://www.spohn.net/prodimages/1019/20.jpg
#9
Example - Spohn torque arm mount. Black pads insulate the mount from the factory chassis pads:
http://www.spohn.net/prodimages/1019/20.jpg
http://www.spohn.net/prodimages/1019/20.jpg
#12
Lifters for the motor are all the same, but if you change them out for a different style (LSx), you'll have to measure your PR length with the new lifters.
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