My car is throwing both P0441 and P0443 codes. Would I be best off replacing the EVAP switch first?

I'm not sure exactly if that's what it is called, but I'm talking about number 11 on here:
http://shbox.com/1/1996_evap.jpg

 

P0441 is set because the vacuum detector switch (#11) does not see a vacuum when the PCM commands the EVAP purge solenoid to open. Indicates the EVAP purge solenoid is not opening.

P0443 is set when the control voltage for the EVAP purge solenoid (#7) does not indicate the proper circuit continuity.

Sounds to me like you may have a faulty EVAP purge solenoid (#7).

 

Alright thanks. I'll start there.

 

I've had those EVAP codes for a year now. Car drove fine. The other day, however, the car stalled while I was waiting to make a left turn. I started it back up and drove into the place. Turned the car off, came back less than 5 mins later, it started back up but wasn't right. I got back on the road and as soon as I started idling back down, and sitting at a light, it tried stalling. I put it in neutral and had to keep revving it to keep it going. It finally did stall out. Upon trying to restart it, it was hard to start. And took 2 times to get it started again. It runs fine while going thru gears but as soon as I idle back down or am sitting still, it doesn't run right. But it doesn't do it all the time. I idled it yesterday after not running it for a week and it was fine. Could the EVAP cause this? Or maybe a TPS? IAC?

 

IAC motor and EGR valve are two possibilities. IAC could explain erratic idle speed. EGR sticking open intermittently could explain stalling at idle. You could elminate the EVAP as a cause simply by pulling the EVAP line off the side of the throttle body and putting a vacuum cap on the throttle body nipple temporarily. The hard start is difficult to associate with any of the preceeding though. Leaking injectors could explain the bad idle and hard start.

Full data scan might be the best way to start.

 

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead, but only because I think my new problem may be related.

I replaced the purge solenoid a while back, and that fixed the two codes that I had in the first place. Now though, I'm getting a P1441. I read some posts and it sounds like it may be due to charcoal in the lines. Should I start by blowing out the lines, or do I need to go straight to replacing the charcoal canister, or is there another completely different possibility that I haven't thought of?

 

I would definitely start checking all the hoses and wiring harness for damage, then blow out the lines before just buying parts.

 

I disconnected and blew out the #1 and #2 vacuum lines (not with compressed air, had to do it by "hand"), and didn't get any charcoal or anything, they appear to be clear. When I blew through the vacuum detector switch (#11), I got 2-3 tiny black flakes which I'm guessing were charcoal, but that's it. I will try resetting the computer and see if that fixes it, but I kind of doubt it will. If that doesn't work, should I try replacing the switch next?

Also, I snapped the #1 line while trying to disconnect it. Is it safe to drive my car to Checker (2mi. round trip) with that line disconnected, or do I need to bike over there?

 

Don't you just love emissions? My sister had a similar problem with her maro and I just replaced the switch. I checked all lines, and found no "charcoal" plugging up the system. Try the switch after you check everything else to be ok. It fixed her car, so I'm guessing it should fix yours as well.

 

just cap the port on the intake for the evap system and it will be fine to drive. if you find any charcoal in the system you need to replace the canister. if you dnon it will happen again. once its broke open it will continue to spill charcoal into the evap lines.

 

OK, I replaced the vacuum detector switch, which fixed the P1441 code. But, within a few miles of driving after resetting the computer, it's now throwing the P0441 code again. Keep in mind, this is with a new (4 months old) purge solenoid, and a brand new detector switch.

The only things I can think of are maybe another bad purge solenoid, or a problem with wiring or something. Any suggestions?

 

Are you sure you have the two hoses connected to the correct nipples on the EVAP solenoid?

http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg

 

!EVAP

 

Yeah, I double checked the lines and they are connected properly. The only one I didn't check is the one on the canister, but I'm pretty sure I hooked it up correctly after I removed it...

That's starting to look like a pretty good option.