SLeePer350

Hey guys, I am getting ready to do this swap soon, and my question is simply, what is the best way to reconnect the top plastic lid to the canister that houses the pump???

I saw on one of the sites, that some guy just ending up getting one of those metal collars that tightens and wrapped it around the entire canister, because he couldnt find a good glue...

Any ideas on glue that is strong but wont dissolve in gas for example?? I dont want anything that will contaminate fuel, especially when paying almost $2/gallon!!

thanks

94droptopz

if you buy it from racetronix it will come with silicone that is approved for gas use.

Pullngz

Do you really have to glue the top back on? Wonth that metal bracket hold it together?

Mike

SLeePer350

Well the pump is already sitting at my house, so it does me no good to order a Racetronix now. Anyway the metal would probably work fine, but I mean it is not designed to be sealed that way. I just wondered if there is a tried and true method to PROPERLY doing this install.

As far as that silicone is concerned, I wonder if I could buy a tube of it individually...

simple

i'm ssure you can find something at a local parts store, just read the back of the package and make sure it says "ok to be submerged in gasoline" or something along those lines!

Pullngz

I hope I didn't come across like an a**hole. I was just curious if everyone else glued theirs on too. When I replaced mine a few years ago, The Haynes manual I used never mentioned anything had to be"resealed"

If you do you a sealer please post what you use.

Mike

SLeePer350

Ill post whatever I decided on. Maybe it doesnt have to be "sealed" with anything, but it seems after prying it open after so miles nonetheless it may need some help staying shut...

No biggie, just trying to figure out whats safe...

1racerdude

My new pump came with a tube of glue. Locktite contact glue will work-it is similar to crazy glue.The kind that will sit on one finger for a year and do nothing,but don't put your fingers together unless you have a razor blade.

Racetronix

Silicone will not work in gas.
The fuel sock supplied with your Walbro pump will not fit the bottom of the fill bucket. A factory filter sock is 70 micron not 30 for gerotor pumps. The pump you bought was not meant to be used in the bucket as it does not have an o-ring at the bottom.

You would be best not to use the bucket with the pump kit you have!

simple

since you're in here Jack, i personally would've liked to have bought one of your pump 'kits' but money wouldnt allow so i scored just the pump from another vendor.

question is would you be so kind as to give us some info on how to use a pump with the bucket that isnt designed for one?
i prefer to keep the bucket so i can still run the tank semi low and take some sharp(er) turns without starving it!

97bowtie

I used the Walbro 255 pump in the stock bucket and the car runs fine. I modified the rubber boot that slips over the top of the pump - made it fit over the new pump. Then, put the lid back on w/out sealant/glue or anything. This may not be the recommended way to do it, but the car has ran fine for the last 10k miles and ran the times in sig without any problems.

Racetronix - I know your'e going to give me **** for this (as u did last time I posted this) but I'm just sharing my experience.

simple

expalin "modified" please
you think there is something i could pick up at a parts store that would work the same?

97bowtie

I honestly can't remember exactly what I did to the rubber boot, but I remember cutting a corner slighty so it would slide over the pump. I will try to see if I have the pics still.

Racetronix

... and people have gone 150MPH+ on H rated tires... your point is?

Unless you check your work on the bench you will never know how much air the pump is sucking due to an improper seal in the bottom of the bucket. The factory hardware can not be used to make a perfect seal. The hanger is not designed to reliably hold the bucket together. It must be bonded. The factory terminals are generally corroded and in some cases the pump connector is burnt. Using the generic Walbro to GM adapter only adds to your problems.

Racetronix

A pump assembly alone is only $150.00 so I can't see there being a big price difference between a generic pump and the Racetronix version.

Racetronix pumps are machined and fitted with a specific size o-ring to create a snap seal into the bottom of the bucket. I can't see your average person having the means to perform this modification. This is excluding the plumbing and wiring.

IMO you are creating more potential problems by trying to reuse the bucket with what you have. You are probably best off just mounting the Walbro pump onto the back spine of the fuel module with a gear clamp and leave your hard cornering and drag racing to times when you have a decent level of fuel in your tank!

An important note worth mentioning is that out of all the pumps we sell the F-LT1 types have the highest failure rate due to rust contamination. The F-LT1 tanks are getting pretty old so using the 70 micron factory filter sock on the bottom of the bucket is only increasing the odds of failure. This is not to say that the 30 micron sock will prevent pump failure due to rust contamination but it can help quite a bit. It would be best to flush your tank which is another reason as to why I am not a fan of the 'trap-door' install method (dangers aside)

Jack
Racetronix