F(ast)-body

Just got a block, now it's time to start deciding on what combo will get me where I want to be. I want a HP range of around 450 RW. How should I get there? Been leaning toward 396....now, what's the best stocker kit, how big of a cam? Solid roller? Compression? I want to do this the right way.....what do you guys think??

1racerdude

[QUOTE=F(ast)-body]Just got a block, now it's time to start deciding on what combo will get me where I want to be. I want a HP range of around 450 RW. How should I get there? Been leaning toward 396....now, what's the best stocker kit, how big of a cam? Solid roller? Compression? I want to do this the right way.....what do you guys think??[/QUOTE

Your HP is in the heads and intake.A good set of heads will run ya 3500-4000 and a modified intake(not LT-1) is 2000-3500. so ya need to stay with a 383 max about 4500 for forged and machine work with no assembly work.Now this is to make 650+FWHP,520+RWHP so if ya want to go lower HP the price of the top end goes down.Short block is about the same solid roller is about the same,just heads and intake can be smaller cause ya gonna be choking that 383 anything less than 300CFM=617FWHP & 493RWHP. It will run with less but I would probably build a 356 and go from there.
It just depends on what ya can afford.

NVetro

Also depends on where you are going to use the car. Seems members have been having better luck with a 383 on the street as apposed to a 396 since the boring of the cylinders comes fairly close to the water jackets and in some cases can cause a slight overheating condition. I am going with a 383 and will be using it on the street/strip w/ nitrous every now and then: callies crank, rods, JE Custom pistons, Cusom cam from Bret Bauer, 4 bolt splayed main conversion, set of stock lt1 casting heads that were done by my TEA that flow 276/248 @ .600 lift w/ a port matched Intake Manifold. My target Compression Ratio will be 11.0-11.2. I am also shooting for 450rwhp N/A, should hit it im hoping. I dont see why you cant go with a hydrolic roller cam, but its upto you, there are plenty of people using solid rollers on the street, its all upto your tollerance i guess. What I will tell you to do is what i tell everyone, BUILD IT ONCE. Dont skimp out on rings, dont skimp out and get the cheaper crank, get good berrings cus in the end your going to pay for it agian when if you skimp out in areas to save $$, even if it takes longer then expected do it right, so you have the motor for awhile.

Turbo6

No difference in the overbore on a 396 vs a 383 so overheating won't be any more of an issue on either. The extra displacement is from the stroke, not bore.

Benefit of a 383 is that you have less block clearancing for the crank and rods so you have a theoretically stronger block, you have less issues with rod to camshaft clearance so you have more choice in rods and rod bolts with a larger base circle cam, you have a better rod angle and less side loading on the bores so the build will last longer, ie. more miles before rebuild, all else being equal, and you have a better rod/stroke ratio.

The only nice thing about a 396 is saying "396" when people ask, IMHO. The 13 extra cubic inches isn't going to get you much power-wise, and if you aren't running a fairly large runner head, you may not be able to feed the 383 sufficiently at high RPM, let alone a 396.

That being said, a nice forged crank, rods, and pistons by any of the reputable manufacturers would be fine. If you don't plan to use a power adder in the future, then even a SCAT cast unit would probably suffice, though I'd feel more comfortable using forged in a high dollar build.

450rwhp-a nice set of ported LT4's by a quality porter, or maybe some AFR 210's c/ competition CNC job or bare castings worked over by a competent porter. A large hydraulic roller or even moderate-large solid roller should get you to 450rwhp with all the other misc accessories and bolt ons.

SS MPSTR

450rwhp ain't going to be cheap - be prepared to shell out some cash.

WS Sick

If you are planning on staying N/A and not overspeeding the motor (below 6500 rpm) then do not rule out the cast steel cranks, with good I beam rods and forged pistons, you almost cut the price of the reciprocating assembly a third. I'm not hitting 450 rwhp with my set-up, but I'm hitting the low 400rwhp range, and it is an absolute beast on the street!

Build a bottom end that is sound, then put all your money in heads and cam.
I would go with at least 36 # injectors and a strong pump (255lph in tank will suffice).

If you go with nitrous or boost then you can't compromise at all in the bottom end.